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Distributor/ Condensor Wiring Question l28et


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I am having trouble getting my 1982 280zx turbo automatic started.  The car cranks, but won't start.  I removed the ignition coil and bracket to hand clean the parts.  When I put everything back together I think I missed a wire connection because it won't start and I have to 2 loose wires.  I have a black wire coming off the a/c compressor in the front, but going to nothing.  I have a solid yellow wire that connects to nothing.  I connected the black single wire off the distributor to the condenser wire.  I reviewed the wiring schematic and think the yellow wire goes to the magnetic clutch since it is the only yellow wire by itself.  I don't know what a magnetic clutch is or where it is.  I have attached a picture of how I put everything back together.  Is the wiring right and where do the 2 loose wires go? 

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The short wire coming off the A/C compressor is the "magnetic clutch".  It looks like the condenser is wired correctly - Black/white wire with a bullet connector close to the coil, thru the condenser, then to a spade on the distributor body, correct?

 

It looks like the coil is connected properly.  Can't see the "T" connector on the ignitor very well.  "T" connector has a black/white and a Yellow (yellow/white) - right?

 

BUT - the condenser and A/C magnetic clutch have nothing to do with the engine starting and running.  Either or both could be disconnected, and as long as everything else is hooked up right, the engine will run.

 

Take a better picture of the "two loose wires" you're talking about...

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Does (did) your A/C work?  (system charged, worked normally before you cleaned stuff)...  If so: To check the "yellow wire" that you think may go to the A/C compressor (and I think you're probably right...):  Turn the ignition to ON, turn on the A/C as if the car were running, check the yellow wire with a volt meter (multimeter) - it should read battery voltage (~12V DC) if you know how to check voltage with a multimeter.  Now, turn the A/C OFF - should read 0V DC...  If that's what happens, connect it to the A/C compressor (magnetic clutch).

 

Next:  Take the "T" connector off the Ignitor,  Check the voltage on the Black/White wire part of the connector.  Should be 0V DC if the ignition is OFF, should be battery voltage if the ignition is in the ON position.  If you have ~12V at ignition ON that's correct and you can plug the "T" connector back to the ignitor.

 

Do you know how to check for spark?  That's the next step.

Edited by cgsheen
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