NewZed Posted December 28, 2016 Share Posted December 28, 2016 The stock factory mount on the crossmember is most likely right. The factory mustache bar is flexible and it's mounted with very flexible rubber bushings. You're replacing a bunch of sloppy flexible stuff with rigid parts. You could just slot those urethane bushings to make those parts work together. If the distances are correct, up and down, take a rat tail file and slot the holes to give the bolts room to let the nose move up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 Mustache bar mount studs are supposed to be perpendicular to the frame. The modification didn't make any sense to me either, as it should located it in the same place, looks and actually are can be deceiving. That is why one of the things this forum likes are numbers and dimensions. If anything the measurements will tell you how off you are, the stock bar can flex quite a bit under the weight and such, wanted the control arms at a JY and had a diff touching the ground while the car was jacked up only being held in by the mustache bar. Clear pictures with a light source to illuminate the parts may show something that we are missing. If the car was running really loose or broken bushings for a while or like new zed says an accident could have twerked the mustache bar structure. Did you round out the mount for the Technoversion kit? I know mine has about a 1/4-1/2 inch groove so that the ES mount from up top captures the curvature of the diff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morbias Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 The factory mustache bar is supposed to have that twist in it. Are you sure you have the correct T3 bar because they make 2 'stock' versions, one for the r180 and one for the r200? Also, have you tried bolting the original diff in with the T3 mustache bar, that will tell you right there if the bar is the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robfixhondas Posted January 10, 2017 Author Share Posted January 10, 2017 I've contacted t3 and they said the bar should have no twist to it. I do have the bar for an r180 and that's what I removed. I'm installing an r160 from a Subaru which has the same external measurements as the the 180. As far as I'm aware t3 only makes 2 different bars, an r180 or r200 style Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Mileski Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 You say that the two diffs have the same external measurements. What really matters in this case is: What is the relationship between the location of the rear mounting studs compared to the location of the front mounting points, in an up and down dimension? My guess is that the two diffs are different in this respect and that's what's causing your twisting issues. If the dimensions on the Subie diff were the same as the Datsun diff, then it should bolt right in. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 Just reinstall the Nissan R180 with the T3 bar and determine if it 's the T3 bar or the Subaru diff that's the problem . If the measurements aren't possible and you have the parts you might as well swap them and figure out what combinations work and which don't. If the Nissan diff doesn't work with the T3 bar then you can focus on the T3 bar. If it does fit then you can focus on the Subaru diff differences. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robfixhondas Posted January 10, 2017 Author Share Posted January 10, 2017 I have done that, either diff doesent matter, it's definitely the t3 bar, or the studs are bent. The whole purpose is to find out if there is suppose to be a twist in the factory bar or not. There are only 2 options to order for t3 r180 or r200. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 I'd start a new thread with a more descriptive title. Like "is anyone using the T3 mustache bar with an R180?". And focus on whether or not theirs fits without compressing the bushings. That's your real question right? It doesn't really matter what Nissan did with their bar. There's a lot of extra stuff in this thread, with upside down and poorly lit pictures. It's hard to get through. Maybe SJ could tell where he saw the modified cross member in Post #17. Actually, I just found it. It's an RB swap so may have been lowered on purpose. http://www.ontariozcar.com/ozc/forum/forums/buy-sell/1852-240z-part-out-full-interior-rb-swap-4-11-r180-multilink-s13-suspension-etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 I really don't recall there being any kind of twist. Some of the bars can develop a twist as that is the direction the force goes in once the wheels start to turn and if the front mount is worn or just the rear bushings are changed that can pull up on the mounts. What we need from you. 4 pictures. 1 well lit picture of the front upper diff mount 1 well lit picture of both diffs from the rear with a ruler for scale 1 well lit picture of the mounting studs on the car for the mustache bar with a square object like a right triangle to show the angle of the studs 1 well lit picture of both bars lying on the bushing with a ruler fir scale to the center mounting point Something is off in this situation. You are asking people to guess without seeing all the cards. Each picture will eliminate one of the possibilities. 1. Upper diff mount is causing interference 2. diff dimensions are different 3. mustache bar studs/bolts are bent 4. mustache bars are different Those are the four options and those four pictures will give us our four solutions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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