chrisfranz85 Posted September 27, 2017 Share Posted September 27, 2017 Is there an advantage to weld in camber plates? Trying to figure out what route to take. The drill and bolt method seems legit and i could always make a small plate to go on the underside to help stiffen the top the tower. Im guessing the weld in plates are stout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Namor Posted September 27, 2017 Share Posted September 27, 2017 I don't think there is any performance advantage to weld-in vs. bolt-in besides the fact that there is another connection point that can induce changes in geometry or failure points. Really, I think it is mostly a matter of aesthetics though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted September 27, 2017 Share Posted September 27, 2017 Don't forget work. For some it is more effort to cut and shape the plate out line, drill several holes then it is to plasma cut out the tower, and weld in the plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted September 27, 2017 Share Posted September 27, 2017 Or you could just go with adjustable lower control arms and leave your strut towers stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisfranz85 Posted October 3, 2017 Author Share Posted October 3, 2017 Nah going auto cross, new frame rails, pans, adding reinforcement plates here and there. So camber plates are going in for sure. Looking at the ground control kit pricey at 2165 plus shipping your old housings to them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheee! Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 Look into the CX Racing coilovers with built in camber adjustment. I am going that rout plus the TTT GTx front lower control arms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheee! Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 Plus I am adding the tri bar strut support for extra strength as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 ^Not a good idea if you really want adjustment out of it. Despite how that looks it will only give about 1-2* of camber, and that may only bring it inline to norm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 1 hour ago, seattlejester said: ^Not a good idea if you really want adjustment out of it. Despite how that looks it will only give about 1-2* of camber, and that may only bring it inline to norm. How is that possible? Camber adjustment at the top of the strut and at the bottom on the LCA will only give 1-2 degrees of adjustment? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baby_Carlton Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 Camber adjustment at the top of the strut will give you only about 1/10th the amount of angle you could get by using an adjustable lower control arm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheee! Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 14 hours ago, baby_Carlton said: Camber adjustment at the top of the strut will give you only about 1/10th the amount of angle you could get by using an adjustable lower control arm. That is why I have both..... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 Sorry I should have clarified I'm talking about that style of camber plate in particular. The ones on the rear for example are maxed out in my application. Even with adjustable arms in the rear the alignment guys were only able to get it to -2 or so without going funny with the lengths. That means my adjustment is from like -2 to -3.5 using the camber tops. You can adjust via control arms, but in the rear that means turning two turn buckles on each side without load on the wheels. Much more of a hassle than undoing 4 allen bolts sliding. The merit to a good camber plate for me is being able to make an adjustment easily. Undo a few bolts slide and get a good range of camber adjustment, for me that means several degrees. If you have your camber plates set to max and you barely get into range with an adjustable lower arm then you could be stuck in a situation like I am where you kind of go from aggressive to extra aggressive, instead of moderate to aggressive. This may all be moot for someone who sets their camber and never looks at it again. In the front you can also get away with funny LCA lengths as you don't have an axle to deal with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheee! Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 Understood. My definition of "wild" camber" starts at about 2 degrees.... I prefer to run -1.2 in the rear and -1.7 in the front for best handling. Others like to lean on the wild side...! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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