Boog Posted December 30, 2017 Share Posted December 30, 2017 Hey guys, Sorry about posting this in the FAQs first, didn't see what category I was in. I recently got the Zcardepot.com Rear disc brake conversion kit, the sport one with the drilled and slotted discs. It uses a maxima caliper. They didn't send me any install information, just a box of parts. I have searched around and haven't found anyone who has documented the install. I did my best to install it how it makes sense, but I want to make sure that it is correct before I bleed the system and drive the car. I've posted some pictures below of my install, sorry for the lighting. I usually do all my work with a headlamp on, so pictures are either too bright or too dark..... I posted a picture of the brake line included, as well as letters showing where they are located on the installed caliper. I used the factory bracket to hold the middle of the brake line fitting. I also used the caliper with the R for right side on the right side of the car. I literally couldn't even find info on how the pads are supposed to be installed. They seem to be left/right specific, as the pad touching the caliper piston has a large tab off the back of it that sticks out. Mostly I am wondering: 1. Is the caliper even in the right position? 2. Is the brake line routed correctly? 3. I read that to make the hand brake cables work, i should swap them across the car so they are short enough to use them on the front of the disc. That is my plan, but have yet to do it. Is it correct? 4.Is there anything I am missing documentation-wise? I can't even find a maxima caliper swap guide. The one I found has broken picture links, so it isn't much use. Thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted December 30, 2017 Share Posted December 30, 2017 I don't know that system exactly but I've worked brakes in general. It looks right to me. Just make sure that the passage from the bleed screw to the caliper piston cylinder hits the cylinder at at the top. You can see the casting marks from the outside. The calipers are designed for a certain orientation and the bleed screw is positioned for convenience. The screw might might be right, but the passage might enter low. Think about air bubbles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mayolives Posted December 31, 2017 Share Posted December 31, 2017 Quote: Your install looks fine but I don't know about the E-brake, cable install. Be sure to use the proper clips that attach the brake lines to the brackets on your body. Also, the brakes lines should not be "kinked or strained in any way and should not come into contact with the tires. Don't forget to use brass washers on each side of the banjo fitting. Rock on. You are doing fine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boog Posted December 31, 2017 Author Share Posted December 31, 2017 Thanks for the input both of you. I got them bled tonight. The hand brake cables work great, i just swapped their sides over the diff which shortens them a little bit. I zip tied them up out of the way. Brake lines all have correct fittings, no leaks, no kinks. There is one tight turn, but it seems ok. I used brass washers on both sides of the banjo. Unfortunately in the bleeding process I was topping off the wrong master cylinder reservoir. So I actually ran the rear dry, so I ended up using a ton more than expected to make sure I didn't have any bubbles. I'll update on performance when I drive it tomorrow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mayolives Posted December 31, 2017 Share Posted December 31, 2017 You are welcome! Although a service manual would not demonstrate how to do a brake conversion, it may give you a better understanding of how things work. The factory service manual is the best but others like Haynes and Chilton manuals are of great help. I have been playing with Z cars for decades and at present, have several and have a number of FSMs. I find myself referring to them all the time. Most of todays tech persons, even those who work at dealerships, will know little about these cars due to their age. Both the tech's age and the Z cars age! Having a good manual by your side is just about like having an experienced tech person helping you, step by step. Keep up the good work. These Z cars are amazing machines. Their design is somewhat timeless and continues to turn heads. They weigh like a bundle of feathers and can be made to be reasonably comfortable. With a little effort, they will " carry the mail" and in general are simple to keep on the road. I suspect that you can feel my love affair with these cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boog Posted December 31, 2017 Author Share Posted December 31, 2017 I can definitely tell you like Z's! I've had mine 5 years and have loved every bit of it. As for the update, drove it just a few minutes ago. Going to CV axles eliminated the driveline vibration. I'll probably still do my front diff mount, but I'm not frantically ordering parts now. As for the brakes, there is as expected more pedal travel. I knew this because I didn't upgrade master cylinders yet. There is only maybe another inch or two, definitely nothing bad. The brakes make a whirring sound when I get on them, but I assume the pads are still bedding. I've been accelerating and braking +/- 30 mph as I've read, never coming to a stop. In sure they'll only get better with time. I did my CV axle swap at the same time, and I have a new topic to post regarding that. I still need to crawl under and give everything a little tighten for my conscience sake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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