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SBC Swap Wiring for Early 260z

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And on to more problems!!


I hate to make another post but I am posting as much as I can when problems come up to not just get the community input but hopefully help other in the future.


So the JTR book pretty much says to rip out all the engine wiring other then the 8-9 wires you need. it even includes the voltage regulator.

I will make a write up at the end of all of this with 260z specific headaches. 


Without using any common sense I got to cutting last weekend. I deleted EVERYTHING that wasn't listed in the JTR book because my lights were not working before so i just kept the needed ignition and sensor wires listed in the swap book.


Last night while wiring my starter up I though "hey how does this thing get battery power now that i ripped all this junk out." well a sanity check confirmed my fear, no power going in to the cabin.

- yes battery works and seat interlock is deleted, all electrics worked before swap(except headlights.)


- I DID NOT have the alternator hooked up (waiting for bracket to get here)


It seems that the W/R wiring from the alternator that branches out is what supplies the power(hot) to most of the car, is that correct?

If so, where do the alternator and battery connect in the stock wiring that allows charging and power before the car is started?

The only crossover i can find is the shunt that is used to supply the amp meter which should not impact other systems.


I attached two images of what I am using from the stock wiring and what my current setup looks like, Again the alternator is not connected.

The volt sensing wire does complete the loop in the new setup but my understanding is that this wire is only used to tell the alternator what to output.



from looking at the 240/260/280 to ZX alternator swaps there is talk of using the stock wiring for the voltage regulator and jumping some wires but that does not apply to the GM 1 wire setup in the JTR book.


I appreciate any feedback.  

Datsun power wires.PNG

260z wiring mess.PNG

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Not entirely sure what you're asking; but if you're looking for full schematics of the factory wiring, you can download free FSMs from here:  http://www.xenonzcar.com/.


You will likely be removing the fusible links from the system, and hopefully replacing them with technology from the 21st century.  You can retain the original fuseblock, if you want, but I'd recommend inserting relays into the electrical system for running lights, headlights, starter, and any other high-load componentry you may have.


Replacing the 45-year old wiring with new heavy gauge stuff will ensure full power to all your components.  Ensuring that you have good grounds everywhere is essential....they get corroded and ineffective after a few decades.


I don't know if this is what you were looking for, but good luck with it.

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Posted (edited)

JHM i have been looking through said diagram and it was a big help.


Basically I compared the 240 vs 260 and what is actually in my car and was able to get everything working.

I now have 12V at the distributor :) EDIT: when the key is turned on!


not all the cabin stuff seems to be working but I don't care because racecar and most of it is still waiting to come out.


Yeah I am running my fan, light bar, starter, fuel pump and alternator with new wire/fuses/relays.

I'll post it up when i get it done.


First order of business is to charge the batter that is putting out 8.8V during cranking...

If i actually get the motor to fire I will start the process if getting every looking nice. 


Edited by Twisted46
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