Broken 4340 Stub Axle threads

[Michael]

9 hours ago, JMortensen said:

...  Some of the other attempts at 8.8s are just ridiculously heavy. Especially if you have 400 hp, the weight is a bad trade off. 

That's my concern as well.  My engine "probably" (not dyno tuned) makes around 450 hp, but it's all about low-end torque (461 cubic inches).  The power level is quite a bit less than that of many of our forced-induction heroes, and so, perhaps zealotry about best-strongest-baddest driveline components would for my case be more posturing than prudence.  But... the shock of that torque, coming at low rpm and part-throttle...?

[JMortensen]

The key question to me is: ARE YOU DRAG RACING?

If you are, then you need to go to something really strong, and as time goes on I think a solid axle is at least as good a choice. If it's a street driver I'm guessing the 4340 axles and a CV upgrade works. Problem is that's already a lot of money, for something that should "probably survive."

[Jlhalsey3]

I ended up TIG welding the broken threaded portion back onto the stub axle. It fitted well back into the original fracture and the weld took well. Torqued the nut to 80 ft lbs, well below spec but didn’t want to risk breaking the weld. I now have about 1000 miles on the repair and it is holding up. Note I don’t drag race the car or drop the clutch for wheel spin starts. I do however use full throttle going up through the gears. This is a V10 Gen II Viper motor with 500 ft lbs of torque and a T56 Tranzilla from Rockland Standard Gear, R200 with Quaife. Based upon my experience and given the difficulty of finding replacement stub axles, maybe this is a route others could take with broken stub axles if the break is at the start of the threads.