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HybridZ

Hello...first question


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

I am not anywhere close to getting a 240z project but I know it's what I want so maybe you guys can help me learn a little in the mean time.

 

My dad has a 400 block that I don't think he'll ever build and I would like to stick a 377 in the Z when I get it. My question is how do the rear diffs hold up to the engine swaps and what mods need to be done. I don't know much about older Z's yet but I can imagine the hp/tq. difference has to take a toll on Z parts. Thanks for any info.

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most common swap is to put in a rear diff out of a 280z/zx (some 260s, although rare, have these too). The ring gear on the stock 240z is 180mm, hence r-180 designation. the 280z/zx have r200s in them (there are also some 280z's that have r180s, usually 75/76 years). The r200 is capable of holding up the increase power and torque, but usually it's the u-joints that give out. Common conversion is to do cv joint swap or swap in Motorsport Auto reinforced heavy duty u-joints. (their catalog is available at www.zcarparts.com )

r200 is easier to identify from r180 by its looks: the r180 is a smaller unit that looks closer to a smoothed out octagon, while the r200 has a larger, much more defined octagon that looks definitely like a stop sign from the rear (it also has sharper more defined edges).

 

How much power/torque are you planning on putting out at the crank, and what kind of gearing are you planning to use? Remember that higher gearing (ie. 3.7, 3.9, 4.11, etc) only worsens the chance of failure. Typical stock gearing for r180 was 3.36 for the manual, 3.54 for the auto, and 280z/zx was 3.54 manual, 3.7 auto, with later variations. hope this helps.

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Basically what Auxilery posted is it in a nutshell... If you want to go bullet proof then do the CV axle conversion when you go R200 and be done with axle failure. Ross COurigan is selling those adapters and axles are about $200 pair or less..

 

Mike Kelly icon_cool.gif

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quote:

Originally posted by MAX SCARAB 327:

commercials.

 

What?!? You scare me sometimes, Leonard. icon_rolleyes.gif

 

Anyway, a JTR kit is relatively cheap and is a superior setup IMO. If you want, just buy the JTR manual and fabricate the parts yourself. Good luck.

 

Davy

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jtr is pretty cool swap kit, covering everything including radiator if you get positively everything, its cool setup, one i would do if i did another swap, because its out there and its from the bay-but only because of those factors,

i have no problems with the scarab position, none at all-im very happy with it, positively delighted by it, with the stock datsun radiator might i add, running 180 in traffic can i get a soul clap, oh yeah!

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Our 240Z was also setup with a scarab conversion. WE bought the JTR manual and got some ideas from that. It explained everything where Gabe and I could understand how and why it was done that way. We didn't buy the kit though. We just made due with materials we already had and whatever we could afford. Our Z is not setup with the engine all the way back like the JTR way. We have the engine setup using the best of both worlds, we think. icon_biggrin.gif Not as far back as JTR and not all the way out to the front either. Our valve covers line up by the front of the strut tower. I think the JTR way sets the engine back about 4 ". Our engine was setback about 2.5". We did lower the motor abit(3/4") from the way it was setup previously though. We got lots of info from the searches too. Take a good look at those. Awesome info for you. Good luck and have fun. We sure are. twak.gif J & G

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Guest Anonymous

Thanks for the reply guys...I'm not sure about the whole engine setup as I do not even have a car yet. I want to be able to rev to about 7000 or so...so I want a bad butt. My dad has a 383 in his 68 Camaro and I would like to keep up with him. He runs 11.8x - 12.1x ...this is with 4.10 and slicks but he usually has 2.73...I'm not sure what ratio I will go for...what man. tranny usually go into these swaps?

 

So many questions guys...thanks in advance for answers.

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Just realize that if you go with an internal shifter manual trans (T5, T56, Tremec Tr-3550/TKO) you need to do a JTR/MSA swap. I think the MSA mounts may put the engine a bit forward of the JTR also (an inch, IIRC).

 

The issue is that the Scarab position will not allow these internal rail trannys (T5, T56, Tremec Tr-3550/TKO) to have the shifter come up in the shifter hole, but they will be under the fusebox.

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Guest Anonymous

Thanks again for all of the info...just to let you know I did a search and didn't find exactly what I was looking for, but I did read a lot of other interesting posts. I did get what I was looking for on this post. Thanks a lot guys. Now I just have to find a way to keep track of the info I gather. icon_biggrin.gif

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Guest Anonymous

This may not be the right area and I searched and found it being discussed one other time back in may, but is there any known plan of someone to swap in the new I6 that's in the trailblazer? This engine seems perfect for a lot of car apps. It's kinda high rev for an SUV. Just wondering if anyone has heard anything more on the subject...

Thanks again guys.

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Nothing known, but anything is possible--you may just well pave the way for a new swap. I prefer to do a 'tried and true' mega power swap for the small block Chevy, but that's my preference. One ride was all it took to convince that 'this is it!'

 

Davy

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that depends on what you want to do? Auto or manual? MAX SCARAB 327 has a 4 speed muncie (right?). Common swaps include th350, th400 for autos, if you're going under 300hp, a camaro worldclass t-5 tranny is just fine, if you're looking at putting down far more oomph than that, borg warner t-56 (same as viper tranny) out of a 94-5 firebird transam or camaro z28 is desired.

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i dig the muncies and the t10's they have a distinctive feel to them, the clicking of metal external linkage, but i have had a couple issues with the linkage, and have had to replace the shifter twice, i likes to bangem! i think you could use any tranny, but with the weaker ones you have to watch how you drive, a lot of shock on the weaker ones and they through, next tranny choice im looking at is the tremec t550 or tko trans that bolts to a muncie bellhoushing, i was thinking of going either world class or t5, but i would have to change out my burst proof bellhousing, which i wont do, and those trannies are setup to work with existing hydraulics and the bellhousing pattern, plus muncies are getting expensive.

 

to beat an 11 second maro you would need a lot of stuff, its not like you can stuff a v8 into any car and expect it to take off into numbers like that, you would be doing the same things he did to get those numbers, maybe a little less, but at some point, it stops getting cheap.

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Guest Anonymous

well as fare as what trany to use i dont know what every one uses in here but i do know the only trans i would stick by if your guna drag it and you want a tuff freeking stock trans go with the 350 turbo short shaft...but if your guna run high speeds you dont want that 3 gears wont do much un less you have a high gear but you should have no prob beating your dad... i know a guy with a charger that dont ahve 2 much dun to the motor he tubed it and lightend it up and he is running 10`s but only because they told him if he runs a 9 with the roll cage he has he isent to come back so he is guna get a better one he told me he thinks it will run a 9 easy its not how much money you have or how much hp for that.. its all in the gear and set up and in the head if you know what your doing you can make any thing run look at me in my 13 second almost stock 1982 280zx i mean come on im almost with your dad and i ant droped my v8 in yet...

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