p7x Posted August 27, 2019 Author Share Posted August 27, 2019 (edited) Driveshaft installed!! There's good news and bad Good: Acceleration clunk reduced by 30% to put a number to it Clunk seemingly no longer happens on deceleration Shifting into each gear is smoother (unexpected) Taking up on the clutch better aka the clunk doesn't happen when releasing clutch mid speed Acceleration seems somewhat smoother Bad: Still have a noticeable clunk in the rear end under quick acceleration or quick release of the clutch. Overall: The driveshaft (prop) u joint was definitely part of the problem but not the full solution. Also noticed that when I was reversing quickly as part of my testing that there a rumbling noise coming from the rear. Next Steps: Remove the half shaft to check those u joints Play with the differential some more. Edited August 27, 2019 by p7x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p7x Posted August 31, 2019 Author Share Posted August 31, 2019 (edited) Took the half shafts off today and found very little to no play in them. Took them to a driveline shop and they also confirmed the same. Played the shop the videos below and the general consensus was the Diff is in bad shape. thoughts from this community? Edited August 31, 2019 by p7x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted September 1, 2019 Share Posted September 1, 2019 On 8/23/2019 at 5:49 PM, Miles said: Drain the differential and check for metal particles. Another possible source of a clunk: This is your problem. The cross pin has wallowed out the hole in the carrier. Carrier is fucked. Get a new one, or get a whole new diff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted September 1, 2019 Share Posted September 1, 2019 From my big diff FAQ post: SPIDER GEAR FAILURES EXPLAINED: What we tend to see most often is that the cross pin which holds the spider gears comes loose by breaking it's retaining pin. When this happens the shaft can then move back and forth and will eventually wallow out the hole in the cast iron carrier. This causes misalignment of the spider gears which makes the gears grind on each other and puts a lot of metal shavings in the oil. As the gears wear on each other and get looser the pin gets looser. Once that happens the pin works its way out of the carrier and starts beating the inside of the case. Sometimes the pin breaks in half, sometimes it just bends, but that's the end of the differential. This problem is pretty well known in drag raced, open, 2 pinion carriers. Welding the diff or switching to an LSD generally alleviates this problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted September 1, 2019 Share Posted September 1, 2019 Time to pull the differential and remove the cover to see what is going on. If the differential is toast then replace it with another used R200 with the same gear ratio. Gear ratio: rotate the ring gear until you see two numbers separated by a slash ( / ) or colon ( : ). and divide the larger number by the smaller number to give the ratio. Most likely you have a differential with a 3.54 ratio. Verify. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p7x Posted September 1, 2019 Author Share Posted September 1, 2019 19 hours ago, JMortensen said: From my big diff FAQ post: SPIDER GEAR FAILURES EXPLAINED: What we tend to see most often is that the cross pin which holds the spider gears comes loose by breaking it's retaining pin. When this happens the shaft can then move back and forth and will eventually wallow out the hole in the cast iron carrier. This causes misalignment of the spider gears which makes the gears grind on each other and puts a lot of metal shavings in the oil. As the gears wear on each other and get looser the pin gets looser. Once that happens the pin works its way out of the carrier and starts beating the inside of the case. Sometimes the pin breaks in half, sometimes it just bends, but that's the end of the differential. This problem is pretty well known in drag raced, open, 2 pinion carriers. Welding the diff or switching to an LSD generally alleviates this problem. Sucks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p7x Posted September 1, 2019 Author Share Posted September 1, 2019 34 minutes ago, Miles said: Time to pull the differential and remove the cover to see what is going on. If the differential is toast then replace it with another used R200 with the same gear ratio. Gear ratio: rotate the ring gear until you see two numbers separated by a slash ( / ) or colon ( : ). and divide the larger number by the smaller number to give the ratio. Most likely you have a differential with a 3.54 ratio. Verify. Ya gonna take a break but I’ll have to open it up and confirm what’s going on and gears Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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