p7x 1 Posted July 27 Hey Everyone, So I replaced my front diff mount with a solid unit and now the clunk in the car is louder more pronounced than before. Worn diff mount might have contributed but now with the solid mount its exacerbated the clunk. I'm new to the S30s so with all the experience on this forum I was hoping you all could help me in determining if there is too much play in the drive line and what might be the source of the "Clunk". Assuming the old rubber diff mount absorbed some of teh slack and now with a solid unit the play in the driveshaft is now more pronouced. Videos below showing some play in the driveshaft U-Joints at the tranny and very little play in the U-Joints at the diff. Based on the last video I think the driveshaft -Joint at the tranny is potentially the source of the clunk. transmission to driveshaft play Driveshaft to Diff play Driveshaft twist and clunk I'd appreciate your thoughts / advice Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bunkhouse 0 Posted July 27 I agree with you. U-joints sound like the source of the clunk. There should be absolutely NO perceptible movement in the u-joints in ANY direction. They will clunk when reversing or going forward and vibrate at high speed. Don't replace them with cheap ones. Nissan and Spicer are both good quality. I believe Nissan sells u-joint c-clips in different thicknesses to tighten up the slack I see in the 1st video. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
p7x 1 Posted July 28 9 hours ago, bunkhouse said: I agree with you. U-joints sound like the source of the clunk. There should be absolutely NO perceptible movement in the u-joints in ANY direction. They will clunk when reversing or going forward and vibrate at high speed. Don't replace them with cheap ones. Nissan and Spicer are both good quality. I believe Nissan sells u-joint c-clips in different thicknesses to tighten up the slack I see in the 1st video. Research tells me that you can't replace the U-joints or not easily anyways. Nissan changed them in 75 and it looks like if I were going down the route to fix it i'd have to replace the whole driveshaft... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bunkhouse 0 Posted July 28 I forgot we working a 280. I was going back in my memory to my 240 days. I'd look into getting a repair quote from a drive shaft shop. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Miles 47 Posted July 28 This is interesting. I pulled the R200 and half shafts from a 78 280Z, replaced the U joints and installed the R200 and half shafts in my 240Z. Are you perhaps thinking of the driveshaft? Take the half shafts to a drive line shop. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
p7x 1 Posted July 28 7 hours ago, Miles said: This is interesting. I pulled the R200 and half shafts from a 78 280Z, replaced the U joints and installed the R200 and half shafts in my 240Z. Are you perhaps thinking of the driveshaft? Take the half shafts to a drive line shop. Ya just to be clear I’m talking driveshaft(prop shaft) between the tranny and diff, not half shafts. From what I can find from multiple sources is after 75 you can’t replace the u-joints on the driveshaft easily. In my hunt I’ll probably take the half shafts off as well to inspect them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
p7x 1 Posted July 28 10 hours ago, bunkhouse said: I forgot we working a 280. I was going back in my memory to my 240 days. I'd look into getting a repair quote from a drive shaft shop. Ya there’s a good shop near by that I’m gonna call this week talk to them and see what they’ll charge. I feel I could do a driveshaft (prop) swap just no clue about the balancing of the driveshaft (prop) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LooseRocks 0 Posted July 28 If you're going to pay somebody to repair it, you should consider having one made that has U-joints that you can replace. I can't imagine that it would be that much more than having it repaired. Places like Hoke Performance are offering custom CD009 to LN diff for $400. A shop is probably going to charge you 4 hours + parts. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
p7x 1 Posted July 30 New drive shaft (prop) is ordered and last night went through the whole back end and tightened everything to spec. Something I should of done from the beginning ... lesson learned. Pretty much everything was spec except the inner and outer lower control arm bolts those were pretty loose. gonna take the car out today to see if tightening things helped at all. Once the new driveshaft is in I’ll update the thread. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
