Joe's 1972 240Z adventure. // 16 JUN 21 - 13 Jul 24 // 3 years 27 days build

[A to Z]

5-9-2022 UPDATE.  Ok, so I assembled the rear bumper and installed it.  I then laid down and sanded up the area under the bumper, The "rear valence" ?....at any rate, it just needed to be redone, so I sanded it all up, and then masked it off, wiped it down with denatured alcohol, and touched up the areas needed with White, and then several coats of clear enamel.  Here are some pics.

[57GMC]

On 5/9/2022 at 9:11 PM, A to Z said:

5-9-2022 UPDATE.  Ok, so I assembled the rear bumper and installed it.  I then laid down and sanded up the area under the bumper, The "rear valence" ?....at any rate, it just needed to be redone, so I sanded it all up, and then masked it off, wiped it down with denatured alcohol, and touched up the areas needed with White, and then several coats of clear enamel.  Here are some pics.

Very nice Joe, I always love the attention to detail. Wasn't sure if you were going to paint the lower areas flat black like Dad always did.  Looks good both ways.. Keep up the good work.  KG

 

[A to Z]

Thanks.  EVERYTHING is subject to change I think.

 

[YoBrother]

lookin good!

 

[A to Z]

5-13-2022 UPDATE:  I went out for a few hours today, and steel wool 'ed and scrubbed the K member and steering rack area with some brake cleaner.  I then tried the RAYHONG paint I decided to try.  Well, I was expecting a decent size can, and I got a can that is small, just fits in the palm of my hand.  You buy 2 and get 3.....good thing.  I tried brushing it on in a couple spots.....it is SUPPOSED to turn to a black coating in about 20 minutes.....an hour later it was still white (see pics).  After that, I went ahead and took a wire wheel in my drill to the rear drums, and removed the paint on them.  Since they are aluminum, there is no need to paint them is there?  If I do, it would have to be a high heat paint I think.  I also painted the rails and floorboards black.   I also ordered some fender flares....they came in and I held them up there and it looks like I will be able to put them on low enough to take up the gap between the top of the tire and fender lips....and I won't have to cut the stock lips off!  I will have to get some wheel spacers to push the wheels out a little bit to make it look right (I sure hope it doesn't look weird from the rear with them out about 1.5" on each wheel.  1" in the front.  Here are a couple pics.

 

Click on this link:

 

Universal Fender Flares Flexible/Durable Black Fenders Polyurethane For Auto Car | eBay

Edited May 14, 2022 by A to Z

[calZ]

You're going to put flares on but not trim the original sheet metal? What's the point of the flares then, just to make your car look lower?

[A to Z]

yes.

[A to Z]

Interesting info to put on here for future use by someone searching for it. Wheel spacers on a 240Z. Spacers for the 240Z have a bore hole diameter equal to the raised portion on the rear axle when the drum is removed, which is 2 5/8" in diameter or 66.675 mm. The front hub is 2 7/8" or 73mm in diameter. To put a front spacer on, the bore hole in the center of the spacer has to be milled out to clear the snout and sit flush on the hub surface. So, we are 6.325 mm or 1/4" of difference in bore diameter. This means that the outer diameter of the bore will go outward 1/8" all the way around. This is important, in determining if the hole can be bored out to work with the metal between the spacer hole and the holes for the studs not being too thin to be safely used.   Click on link below first drawing to see and think about.

[calZ]

So are you spacing the wheels out to the flares then? Not worried about being that low and the original lips riding on the tire? That's generally why people trim the lips

[A to Z]

I have a 1 to 1.5 inch gap, so no worries.....it will be cosmetic.

[A to Z]

5-15-2022 UPDATE: After work, I took the time to paint my drums with some 1200 degree high temp paint. Should be ready to go for tomorrow!

[A to Z]

5-16-2022 UPDATE:  So I went ahead and disassembled both rear drums, and installed a new wheel cylinder on each side, along with the new lines I got from the Z Depot.  My originals were the high dollar, first generation wheel cylinders that cost a fortune, so I bought the lines for a later Z car and bought the wheel cylinders to match.  Everything seemed fine, but the drums won't turn, even with the adjusters backed all the way off, nothing.  I had to pound the drums on....that should have been my clue, but I for some reason thought once they were on, they would then work.....stupid me.  I will have to pull the drums later and possibly sand down the brake shoes a tad to get it to spin.  I haven't bled the brakes yet, so they cylinders are still dry.  I am using the exact same shoes, everything....they were HARD to get off, but they spun freely.....Anyway, I then went ahead and changed out my front calipers.  Dirty job today.

 

PICS BELOW:

Edited May 17, 2022 by A to Z

[A to Z]

[YoBrother]

No expert here, but I have had drums go on hard, then after pumping the brakes, the shoes lined up with the drum.  Then everything worked.  Sometimes the shoes need to skootch around in there to get aligned.   But otherwise yeah, sucks getting a tight drum off.  

 

While you are at it, replace that dinky little pumpkin with a 1 ton ford strait axle.  You will be rock crawling in no time!  Put one on the front too!

Edited May 17, 2022 by YoBrother

[A to Z]

hehe, yeah!

[A to Z]

5-19-2022 UPDATE:  Ok, more brakes.  I pulled the drums, took them down to O'Reilly's, and had them turned....2 passes.  They normally turn them 2 mils down, I requested 4 mils.  And....a day or two ago, I went ahead and decided to replace the cheapo pads, with Centric Semi metallic pads front and rear....as well as a new Drum spring kit for both sides.  More to follow.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited May 19, 2022 by A to Z

[A to Z]

www.willtheyfit.com

 

An invaluable tool that can help you figure out what to do with wheel sizing for your Z car. You will have to get under there and measure some distances, but this will help you in figuring out what to get to achieve the look you want. I attached a couple screenshots of me working on finding out what wheel and tire I will need to replace my current wheels with my spacers at some point. The goal is to get the wheel that will sit at the edge just like my spaced-out ones will.....but no spacers. Go check it out!

 

The first one is the end result of putting my spaced wheel on their building the new one in green to match, and then I moved the original orange back to where it is now to see the difference. the next page shows my wheel spaced out in orange with the green overlaid over it.

[A to Z]

here you can see my current wheel and where it will sit with it's spacers in the rear. The green is the new measurement which will be the same, but wider on the inside back to it's original spot before I spaced it out. These are for the rear, the front still have to be figured. In my case I am looking at a 15X9 with -11 offset . You play with the tire sizing as well....in my case, the rear will need a 235/45/15 to maintain close to the same outside diameter size. I just need to do the fronts now. Even if it is some time before I do it, I will know what I need should I decide to get different wheels down the road. 

Edited May 22, 2022 by A to Z

[A to Z]

Ok, and here are my results for my front wheels.  Again, the original is orange using where they will sit with the spacers, to then play with rim width and tire sizes, and offsets to get the inside wheel edge same as stock, and the outside edge where the old wheel sits at when spaced out.  2 pics for reference.  Again, the site is www.willtheyfit.com.  Cheers

[57GMC]

Thanks, Nice visual on the wheel / Tire combo and where they will set.  PS I see you have had a bunch of weather and snow.. Take care.. And I hope your rear wheel drums are fitting..