fusion Posted January 22, 2023 Share Posted January 22, 2023 (edited) I am building a 1976 280z from the ground up. The car was a roller and didn't come with a steering wheel. I don't want the factory steering wheel. I will have power steering so I don't need such a large wheel. When I look at aftermarket steering wheels, are there certain specs I should be looking for? Such as attachment to the steering shaft (splines etc), depth of the wheel, horn connection. At what point does the wheel interfere with seeing the gauges if you go smaller diameter? Anything else? Thanks Edited January 22, 2023 by fusion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted January 23, 2023 Share Posted January 23, 2023 Just get an adapter for an S30 that fits the wheel you like. People without power steering commonly go 14". I found myself hitting the door panel when autocrossing, eventually went 13 and liked that better. Had aftermarket gauges, but didn't have any problem seeing them with the 13. It's been a while since I've shopped wheels, but Grant GT wheels have 5 bolts holding the wheel on, MOMO and most other aftermarket wheels have 6 bolts. But find the wheel first, that way you won't be exchanging the adapter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fusion Posted January 23, 2023 Author Share Posted January 23, 2023 Cool, thanks man. Is there a certain depth of wheel that puts it at basically the same distance from the driver as stock? Any reasons why or why not to change that distance? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted January 23, 2023 Share Posted January 23, 2023 Gotta do what is comfortable. The adapter adds some thickness too, so if you got a wheel with the same dish as stock and then put a 1" adapter behind it, it's going to be closer than you want. I don't expect there are that many Z people you can ask to sit in their car in MN, but that would be the best option. Quick check shows spacers available, so maybe err on the side of too far away if you're in doubt and then use spacers to bring it back in if needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhm Posted January 24, 2023 Share Posted January 24, 2023 @fusion, do you need measurements from a stock steering wheel? I think I have one lying around and can measure it for you, if you like. LMK. As Jon pointed out....steering wheel positioning (and steering effort) is a highly personal thing. And it's relational to several other factors, like driver's physical attributes, seating position, and the car's intended application. What feels right to one person can be horrible for another. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fusion Posted January 24, 2023 Author Share Posted January 24, 2023 That would be great, thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhm Posted January 25, 2023 Share Posted January 25, 2023 Here ya’ go: Diameter, 14 7/8” Depth, 4 3/4” Thickness, 24 mm Steering shaft dia, 16.5 mm Steering shaft splines, 36 Took these measurements off a metal, three-spoke wheel…from a 1973 260 IIRC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fusion Posted January 25, 2023 Author Share Posted January 25, 2023 Thanks so much, really appreciated. One question, I measured the OD of the splines of my steering shaft at 17.5mm, not 16.5mm. I have a 1976 280z. Any chance they are different? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhm Posted January 25, 2023 Share Posted January 25, 2023 Hmmmm....I don't think they'd be different. I've used several of the same steering wheels on different years without any issues. It's possible that our measurements differ by 1 mm because I was measuring the ID of the steering wheel mounting hole vs you measuring the OD of the steering shaft....and they're both splined, which can result in small differences in measures. There are many hub adapters available to fit the Z; just make sure you get one that has the correct bolt pattern to match whatever aftermarket steering wheel you choose. Something like this one offers two different bolt patterns for wider compatibility: https://www.ebay.com/itm/262525631164?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=262525631164&targetid=1645685073808&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=9008565&poi=&campaignid=16730423415&mkgroupid=135815925780&rlsatarget=pla-1645685073808&abcId=9300841&merchantid=101732007&gclid=Cj0KCQiAw8OeBhCeARIsAGxWtUxpzV5oqsS3RU9JHDRjsUVCegH8PwffL3jdbZA6SpbYsds4fwLuodwaAtV7EALw_wcB If you've been wanting a removable (or tip) steering wheel, now's a good time to do it! NRG makes some nice, quality hub adapters for that kind of thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fusion Posted January 26, 2023 Author Share Posted January 26, 2023 Great info, thanks. I'm surprised how tall these adapters are. Why is that? Also, is it worth it to get an expensive adapter like NRG vs a cheaper one if it's just providing a different bolt pattern? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhm Posted January 26, 2023 Share Posted January 26, 2023 Yes, many of the cheaper ones work fine…as long as they fit tightly on the splines. I’ve used a couple of them (like the “Boss”) without any issues. If you’re considering a removable or tilt hub adapter, I would not go cheap. The cheap ones don’t lock securely, they don’t last, and can rattle loosely. I’ve been using an NRG removable hub the last two years and really like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fusion Posted January 27, 2023 Author Share Posted January 27, 2023 Thanks man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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