zboi Posted October 24, 2023 Author Share Posted October 24, 2023 (edited) Lots of space under there. I'm using 2.125" for the collector merge to 2.25" tubing ending with a tiny bit of 2.5" for the turbo flange. Edited October 24, 2023 by zboi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted October 24, 2023 Share Posted October 24, 2023 (edited) Thanks - I think I will be using my stock turbo exhaust manifold and rout the output from the turbo under the engine to go forward through the radiator support to a cross flow intercooler and have the cooler air back thru on the intake side to my Protunerz intake. Looks like I should have no problem... Edited November 9, 2023 by Brad-ManQ45 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted October 25, 2023 Share Posted October 25, 2023 So. Initially I saw this and I was like... Why?? Seems a standalone like speeduino or Megasquirt would likely be easier/cheaper. Something hit me this morning that this makes this super desirable. AUTO TRANSMISSION CONTROL!!! I am building a 1984 maxima wagon that Ive turbo'ed with stock 280zxt components and a standalone ecu. I was planning on doing a 5 speed swap. But im contemplating sticking with an auto as the foot box is really small and Maybe im getting old. Finding info and a transmission that I can build to handle any power is super hard. With running this ecu. You could run a 4l60e or 4l80e Etc and control it with the stock ecu. I wonder how cruise control would work with the DBW system also.. Now I'm interested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted October 25, 2023 Share Posted October 25, 2023 Or you could use a MicroSquirt connected by CAN to a MegaSquirt to control the 4l60/80... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted October 25, 2023 Share Posted October 25, 2023 13 minutes ago, Brad-ManQ45 said: Or you could use a MicroSquirt connected by CAN to a MegaSquirt to control the 4l60/80... And the price just wen way up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted October 25, 2023 Share Posted October 25, 2023 31 minutes ago, jeffer949 said: And the price just wen way up. $500 when not on sale...plus - MS programmability. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zboi Posted October 25, 2023 Author Share Posted October 25, 2023 (edited) I picked up this ECU with all the sensors, throttle body, injectors, coils, etc. for $250 so HUGELY cheaper. You will need to tune it, which can be done by mail for a bit more or by yourself like me (I've done a few LS swaps so had HPTuners). There are on/off pins for cruise control from the E67 ECM I'm using, haven't ever tried to use it. On an older gen IV LS swap with a 4l60 I did there were a number of cruise control wires. I didn't hook it up, but I did hook up the automatic crank to start feature which was nice. Made the car feel real modern. 4l60/5 will fit in the tunnel fine, and handle the power easy. Especially since they were designed for 4000lb SUVs. The auto is easier on the rest of the drivetrain too. Edited October 25, 2023 by zboi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted October 27, 2023 Share Posted October 27, 2023 (edited) I have the ATI trans adapter kit and lockup torque converter (9") along with MS3Pro and MicroSquirt for my '83 ZXT. Currently waiting to paint engine compartment prior to installing engine, transmission and upgrades including ported and ceramic coated exhaust manifold, Protunerz intake and even larger upgraded turbo. Have had health issues. Edited November 2, 2023 by Brad-ManQ45 Spelling/autocorrect Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zboi Posted October 28, 2023 Author Share Posted October 28, 2023 58x reluctor for a Chevy 2.4 ecotec came in. It is neutral balanced, lighter, and conveniently has 3 holes for bolts that are exactly in the same place as the pulley face. If you wanted you could drill and tap the pulley and this would screw on. I just put some plug welds on instead. Engine now runs normal! It is leaking some oil from where the timing cover meets the cylinder head. The head gasket overhanging bit was all broken when I pulled the timing chain cover and I didn't want to pull the head to change it. Seems a lot more oil leaks down there than I expected, hopefully some beads of RTV on the exterior fix that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zboi Posted October 28, 2023 Author Share Posted October 28, 2023 Downpipe is on. Just need to finish up the cold side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted November 1, 2023 Share Posted November 1, 2023 On 10/27/2023 at 11:21 AM, Brad-ManQ45 said: I have the ATI trans adapter kit and lockup torque converter (9") along with MS3Oro and MicroSquirt for my '83 ZXT. Currently waiting to paint engine compartment prior to installing engine, transmission and upgrades including ported and ceramic coated exhaust manifold, Protunerz intake and even larger upgraded turbo. Have had health issues. We are fine with you doing what your doing. Shoot I'm happy for you. Those components sound great. But why be so negative towards those of us who would rather spend money differently. I bought my whole car for 500 bucks. I am financially stable and I still try to build my car as cheap as possible. Its just what I like to do. This is a cool idea to get Auto trans control. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted November 1, 2023 Share Posted November 1, 2023 25 minutes ago, jeffer949 said: We are fine with you doing what your doing. Shoot I'm happy for you. Those components sound great. But why be so negative towards those of us who would rather spend money differently. I bought my whole car for 500 bucks. I am financially stable and I still try to build my car as cheap as possible. Its just what I like to do. This is a cool idea to get Auto trans control. I'm not negative in any way - shoot, I'm all for saving a buck - more do than most because I had to retire early for health/disability reasons. I ask questions and make statements but don't judge - some of us are here to learn and share knowledge. I honestly didn't know the OP got the PCM very cheaply as it wasn't in his original post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zboi Posted November 3, 2023 Author Share Posted November 3, 2023 Tuning this thing has been difficult. Keeps saying that its running way rich, even when I've adjusted the VE table down like 90%. One issue that bit me, I had swapped cylinder 4 and 2 because the internet said the firing order was different between the L28 and atlas. Well the internet as usual is filled with idiots. The firing order is the same between the motors, noticed something off when rough idle wouldn't go away and the 4/2 cylinders felt a lot cooler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted November 9, 2023 Share Posted November 9, 2023 On 11/3/2023 at 4:23 PM, zboi said: Tuning this thing has been difficult. Keeps saying that its running way rich, even when I've adjusted the VE table down like 90%. One issue that bit me, I had swapped cylinder 4 and 2 because the internet said the firing order was different between the L28 and atlas. Well the internet as usual is filled with idiots. The firing order is the same between the motors, noticed something off when rough idle wouldn't go away and the 4/2 cylinders felt a lot cooler. have you done any tuning after you fixed your firing order? 2 cylinders not getting spark at the right time will dump alot of fuel into the exhaust and your wideband will read rich. How did you mount the crank angle sensor? That actually looks like an easy way to get a crank signal for any standalone also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zboi Posted November 9, 2023 Author Share Posted November 9, 2023 Crank angle sensor is mounted on just a piece of flat steel, using one of the bolts off the oil pump. I actually reused a piece of the steel bar that normally goes on the oil pan to "distribute the load". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zboi Posted November 11, 2023 Author Share Posted November 11, 2023 Alrighty got it driving now. First issue was my brand new Bosch O2 sensor was bad, it was always reading the same value. Swapped with an AC Delco and it was fine. Second my scan tool was by default adding bank 1 and bank 2 O2 sensor readings together, problem being there is no bank 2 so bank 2 was always pegged rich and throwing off the reading. Using just the bank 1 reading things are looking great. Will dial the tune in all the way and then connect the charge pipe for some boost. This poor little L28 has been through so much abuse lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zboi Posted November 11, 2023 Author Share Posted November 11, 2023 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zboi Posted December 22, 2023 Author Share Posted December 22, 2023 (edited) Finally got this thing tuned right, kept fighting an issue where the car would break up on quick throttle changes and in boost. Engine had NGK b6es-11 plugs, I went to a NGK bpr7es and all my problems disappeared. Engine is leaking oil pretty bad though from what looks like where the timing cover and cylinder head meet, l am genuinely amazed at how much oil can come out of there. The stock head gasket was torn there, and I RTVed it up a lot after the fact. Maybe my PCV valve is faulty and pressurizing that area under boost? Once I get this oil leak handled Ill take it to the dyno. Edited December 22, 2023 by zboi 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildky Posted December 26, 2023 Share Posted December 26, 2023 Interesting build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zboi Posted January 15 Author Share Posted January 15 Well I pulled the head, fixed the gaskets, ported it a little and thought I may as well slap some new valves in because there was a couple suspicious looking ones. Got it all back together and fired up drove for a minute and had low power and some clacking. Looks like those new valves either had some inconsistencies in stem length, or the lash pads were wore into the old ones, I found three lashpads popped off when I pulled the valve cover, 1 rocker arm sideways, and one valve lock popped out from that sideways rocker arm. I didn't think that a new set of valves would cause so much problems, but guess my luck sucks. I noticed quite a bit of play in other lashpads too. I should pull the head again, but mannnnn I dont want too. That sideways rocker has me scared. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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