Flak280z Posted March 18 Share Posted March 18 Hello all, finally a post without a question from me. I’m doing the turbo conversion on my 78 280, but I decided to make it difficult for myself and throw it on the passenger side. I also decided to use my MSA 3-2 NA headers because I like to nickel and dime :). Just thought I’d share how I’m making the passenger side mounts and the custom exhausting because I couldn’t really find much info on either topic. Get ready for a lot of pictures and feel free to offer advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flak280z Posted March 18 Author Share Posted March 18 still trying to decide if I want to run the exhaust to the muffler beging the oil pan like the intake side is, or just run it under the trans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flak280z Posted March 18 Author Share Posted March 18 Used some flex pipe up towards the turbo because it is rigid mounted. I thought it would be a good idea to give some room to twist so as not to fracture anything. The exhaust is a bit close to the starter and fuel lines. I plan on wrapping the exhaust with header wrap to keep the fuel lines and oil pan still “cool.” Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flak280z Posted March 18 Author Share Posted March 18 I will update as I progress and when my intercooler arrives. I am going to be running megasquirt with a zx dizzy. Still looking for an oil pump driveshaft from a turbo model if anyone is willing to sell and ship to West Chester, PA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 (edited) I can't say that I've seen a turbo mounted rigidly to the body of the car. A couple of thoughts come to mind. Your bracket is going to transfer quite a bit of heat into the strut tower from conducted and radiant heat. Be prepared for paint to burn off and rust appear if you don't isolate the mount and protect the strut tower from with radiant heat shields. It's hard to tell from your pictures but the flex pipe you have leading up to the turbine appears to be one of those flexible tail pipes (not bellows). I don't think those are designed to take much or any pressure, especially when flexing due to the engine naturally moving on its engine mounts. I could be wrong but it may not last long. Anyway, good luck with it and let us know how it works! Maybe I'm full of shite, it would be the first time Edited March 20 by rossman 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flak280z Posted March 22 Author Share Posted March 22 (edited) Awesome reply, I didn't even think about the heat transfer of a direct mount. Do you have any thoughts on what to use to isolate the mount for heat? I'll do some research on maybe heat shielding pads or something I count mount the mount on. Maybe I just buy a few sheets of gasket material and layer a sheet or 2 between the strut tower and the mount? The flex-pipe used is pretty ghetto. I am in the process of routing pipe for the "intake exhaust" and removing that section of flex pipe near the starter. So the only section of flexpipe being used now is about 8" connecting the downpipe to my OG exhaust/muffler. I plan on getting it all set and running with megasquirt, and then changing out ghetto section eventually when I start dialing temps and issues. It is a valid concern of yours that I did have in mind to keep an eye on, but there's not as much anymore. Will update with more pictures soon as I finish up the exhaust and quickly do intercooler stuff. Edited March 22 by Flak280z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted March 24 Share Posted March 24 Hmm, that's a tough one. Anything you sandwich will conduct heat. You could try some ceramic washers/bushings at the bolt locations then place self-adhesive radiant barrier in the gap made by the washers, extending an inch or so around. Wrapping the turbine with a turbo blanker will help with radiant heat too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calZ Posted March 24 Share Posted March 24 Ceramic spacers were my thought as well. You'll still get heat transfer through the bolts, but much less than two metal plates sandwiches together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zboi Posted March 25 Share Posted March 25 You would be better off tying into the bolts on the cold side for your attachment point. That will drop a lot of heat too. Or you could try to use the two bolt holes near the top of the block if you have those. I used those for knock sensors but they would work good as a mounting point for the turbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flak280z Posted March 26 Author Share Posted March 26 (edited) I am going to pick up some ceramic spacers. I also bought some carbon welders felt stuff. It says it’s fireproof and can withstand 1800f. I will have to test different things when I get it on the road. Here are pics of progress. Intercooler all done. Edit: not sure why most of these pictures are crap, but try to make it out Edited March 26 by Flak280z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flak280z Posted March 26 Author Share Posted March 26 Here’s some pics of finalized exhausting. Note the new “intake” exhaust pipe for turbo. No more flex pipe besides joiner between down pipe and modified Z-story exhaust. Everything is heat wrapped and I did pick up a nice carbon weave turbo blanket. I also got a heat sleeve for my fuel lines. The only thing I have to worry about heat wise is the strut mount. Just have to tap oil pan now and wait for my megasquirt to arrive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flak280z Posted April 29 Author Share Posted April 29 (edited) We did it (finally)! We have lift off. Not able to hit boost yet, but I can drive it again. A weird problem I had today was my fuel pump relay would turn on-off randomly. This caused the car to buck, and when I backed off the throttle, it stopped. It happened both on faster acceleration and braking normally. Going to replace my fuel pump relay tomorrow and keep on tuning. Thanks to all you fine folks. I'll post when I finally dip into boost, and my msq when I get things running decently. Edited April 29 by Flak280z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted April 30 Share Posted April 30 Awesome, congrats! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flak280z Posted Friday at 05:20 PM Author Share Posted Friday at 05:20 PM (edited) Some good news and bad news. Good news is, I think I solved my fuel pump issue. I had deceleration fuel cutoff at 95% and it had no way of taking away 5% of fuel, so I think it was just shutting the pump off. I’ll have to keep an eye out, it didn’t happen during my short test drive. Bad news, I think my ARM UEGO wide and is messed up. It never goes to full lean as it should, key on. it goes up, but hovers around 19. Also, when I start the car, it just goes to 0 (see pic). It sometimes jumps up to 3-4, but it sits at 0. TunerStudio won’t calibrate to it either, and just flicks from 15-19 during a drive. Edited Friday at 07:22 PM by Flak280z not sure why the first pic is garbage, but here are my tables Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zboi Posted Friday at 10:15 PM Share Posted Friday at 10:15 PM You sure that is controlling the fuel pump? I would expect it to control the injector instead. Typically the ECU will just command the pump on and off. I've only seen pump duty cycle controlled on really advanced setups. Do you have a fuel pressure sensor somewhere to monitor? Also DFCO shouldn't be used at all with a manual transmission, unless again you have a sophisticated system that can tell what gear the transmission is in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flak280z Posted Saturday at 03:11 PM Author Share Posted Saturday at 03:11 PM Something is controlling the fuel pump when it shouldn't, it is still cutting out here and there. I do have a pressure sensor in my bay, so I might have to run it to where I can see in the car. I also need to have the laptop in my lap to see if the whole megasquirt is going down during the pump cut. Maybe there's another issue with my ecu itself. It randomly cuts for a second it seems on deceleration (both with clutch in and out), and doesn't like when I get on it after slowing and coming out a corner. Other than that, it runs fine. Idle AFR is around 12, 3200 rpm afr is around 10.5. Running a bit rich, maybe that has something to do with the pump cutting out. Going to have to scour megasquirt settings to see if anything is enabled that shouldn't be. I loaded Cryngus' tune awhile ago and have tuned to where I am since then, so maybe he had something that I shouldn't have for my setup. Going to try to make it to Carlisle import show here in PA next weekend, praying it's not an ecu internal issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zboi Posted Sunday at 01:30 PM Share Posted Sunday at 01:30 PM Those AFRs are both way off. Most of what your saying makes no sense, and if you don't see that yet you really need to read more of the docs of tuning and megasquirt. I'm pretty sure your just way off with your megasquirt tables. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flak280z Posted Monday at 05:36 PM Author Share Posted Monday at 05:36 PM (edited) Wow, so helpful.... Obviously, this is new to me, and I'm working through it all on my own, besides the posts I've made where people were actually supportive and helpful. If you've even tried to read what my messages say and my other posts involving megasquirt, you can find the information on both my status regarding car, wiring, and megasquirt knowledge. I literally said in the message right before yours that knew it was off and running rich. I've since adjusted my fuel ve table as to where I Idle around 13 AFR and ~12 cruising. Attached is my tune and an engine log. At the end of the log is where my fuel pump started to cut out. It seems to still happen randomly, I can't narrow down when it starts to cut as it does it when decelerating, at idle, or when on the throttle. Maybe somebody can simply help look at my tables and offer some guidance. The car runs fairly good and smooth, so I don't think my tables are "way off". I can't blip the throttle at idle to rev or to downshift, the car just seems to sputter, so I know my tables need tuning, but they aren't undrivable. My main issue is this mystery fuel pump cut. Don't bother to waste my time if you have nothing to say. engine log 1.csv CurrentTune.msq Fuel pump cut.mp4 Edited Monday at 06:31 PM by Flak280z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zboi Posted Monday at 07:07 PM Share Posted Monday at 07:07 PM Ok, so heard a clicking sound which was at the same time your tach signal cut too (RPM needle dropping instantly). Is the clicking the fuel pump relay or something else? The tach signal is coming from the megasquirt ECM right? If yes then this is the power to the whole unit cutting on and off. Either from bad power/ground or faulty ECM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flak280z Posted Monday at 08:50 PM Author Share Posted Monday at 08:50 PM (edited) Yes, that's the fuel pump relay clicking, and yes, the tach signal is coming from megasquirt. At the Dizzy, I have the power wire and signal wire connected, and then ground going to chassis. I have tried grounding at both the chassis and dizzy connection, both have the same result. I have noticed, in tunerstudio, I do get quite a bit of sync loss on the counter, however, tooth logs seem to be fine. Edited Monday at 09:23 PM by Flak280z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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