Flak280z Posted March 18 Share Posted March 18 Hello all, finally a post without a question from me. I’m doing the turbo conversion on my 78 280, but I decided to make it difficult for myself and throw it on the passenger side. I also decided to use my MSA 3-2 NA headers because I like to nickel and dime :). Just thought I’d share how I’m making the passenger side mounts and the custom exhausting because I couldn’t really find much info on either topic. Get ready for a lot of pictures and feel free to offer advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flak280z Posted March 18 Author Share Posted March 18 still trying to decide if I want to run the exhaust to the muffler beging the oil pan like the intake side is, or just run it under the trans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flak280z Posted March 18 Author Share Posted March 18 Used some flex pipe up towards the turbo because it is rigid mounted. I thought it would be a good idea to give some room to twist so as not to fracture anything. The exhaust is a bit close to the starter and fuel lines. I plan on wrapping the exhaust with header wrap to keep the fuel lines and oil pan still “cool.” Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flak280z Posted March 18 Author Share Posted March 18 I will update as I progress and when my intercooler arrives. I am going to be running megasquirt with a zx dizzy. Still looking for an oil pump driveshaft from a turbo model if anyone is willing to sell and ship to West Chester, PA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 (edited) I can't say that I've seen a turbo mounted rigidly to the body of the car. A couple of thoughts come to mind. Your bracket is going to transfer quite a bit of heat into the strut tower from conducted and radiant heat. Be prepared for paint to burn off and rust appear if you don't isolate the mount and protect the strut tower from with radiant heat shields. It's hard to tell from your pictures but the flex pipe you have leading up to the turbine appears to be one of those flexible tail pipes (not bellows). I don't think those are designed to take much or any pressure, especially when flexing due to the engine naturally moving on its engine mounts. I could be wrong but it may not last long. Anyway, good luck with it and let us know how it works! Maybe I'm full of shite, it would be the first time Edited March 20 by rossman 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flak280z Posted March 22 Author Share Posted March 22 (edited) Awesome reply, I didn't even think about the heat transfer of a direct mount. Do you have any thoughts on what to use to isolate the mount for heat? I'll do some research on maybe heat shielding pads or something I count mount the mount on. Maybe I just buy a few sheets of gasket material and layer a sheet or 2 between the strut tower and the mount? The flex-pipe used is pretty ghetto. I am in the process of routing pipe for the "intake exhaust" and removing that section of flex pipe near the starter. So the only section of flexpipe being used now is about 8" connecting the downpipe to my OG exhaust/muffler. I plan on getting it all set and running with megasquirt, and then changing out ghetto section eventually when I start dialing temps and issues. It is a valid concern of yours that I did have in mind to keep an eye on, but there's not as much anymore. Will update with more pictures soon as I finish up the exhaust and quickly do intercooler stuff. Edited March 22 by Flak280z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted March 24 Share Posted March 24 Hmm, that's a tough one. Anything you sandwich will conduct heat. You could try some ceramic washers/bushings at the bolt locations then place self-adhesive radiant barrier in the gap made by the washers, extending an inch or so around. Wrapping the turbine with a turbo blanker will help with radiant heat too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calZ Posted March 24 Share Posted March 24 Ceramic spacers were my thought as well. You'll still get heat transfer through the bolts, but much less than two metal plates sandwiches together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zboi Posted March 25 Share Posted March 25 You would be better off tying into the bolts on the cold side for your attachment point. That will drop a lot of heat too. Or you could try to use the two bolt holes near the top of the block if you have those. I used those for knock sensors but they would work good as a mounting point for the turbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flak280z Posted March 26 Author Share Posted March 26 (edited) I am going to pick up some ceramic spacers. I also bought some carbon welders felt stuff. It says it’s fireproof and can withstand 1800f. I will have to test different things when I get it on the road. Here are pics of progress. Intercooler all done. Edit: not sure why most of these pictures are crap, but try to make it out Edited March 26 by Flak280z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flak280z Posted March 26 Author Share Posted March 26 Here’s some pics of finalized exhausting. Note the new “intake” exhaust pipe for turbo. No more flex pipe besides joiner between down pipe and modified Z-story exhaust. Everything is heat wrapped and I did pick up a nice carbon weave turbo blanket. I also got a heat sleeve for my fuel lines. The only thing I have to worry about heat wise is the strut mount. Just have to tap oil pan now and wait for my megasquirt to arrive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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