A to Z Posted November 19 Author Share Posted November 19 My welder also does powder coating, so I am having him powder coat the J pipe and down pipe with some graphite black colored hi temp powder. Supposedly good for 1800 degrees F. Also....G POP , who is doing the carbon seals on my turbo is going to hi temp powder coat my hot side with some 2000 degree F Titanium color powder coating, and then the compressor side is being Powder coated gold. You will see, it will all come together. also mulling over having the turbo ported and maybe a custom turbine for the hot side to spool the turbo quicker since I like my 5500-6000 RPM redline. We go forward! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dat73z Posted November 19 Share Posted November 19 When I was running a small turbo on a big stroker, I was basically making boost right off idle and 10-15psi by like 3000 rpms. If I read correctly, you're only going for 1-3psi of boost? You will easily be making that off idle, certainly below 4000 rpms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A to Z Posted November 20 Author Share Posted November 20 7 hours ago, Dat73z said: When I was running a small turbo on a big stroker, I was basically making boost right off idle and 10-15psi by like 3000 rpms. If I read correctly, you're only going for 1-3psi of boost? You will easily be making that off idle, certainly below 4000 rpms. Yeah....I have started to realize the same thing. I will let it make what it makes and provide the fuel, methanol and water it needs. the knock sensor will save it. If it wants to spool immediately, that would be exactly what I want. I don't go over 6K RPM anyway. I am going to talk to the turbo builder and see what he has for custom wheels....apparently more vanes brings earlier spool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A to Z Posted November 20 Author Share Posted November 20 (edited) 11-19-2024 TURBO PROJECT UPDATE: My crown turbo pieces are back from J&S Custom Polishing. Pretty nice, huh? Edited November 20 by A to Z Jesus is the Living Son of God Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A to Z Posted November 22 Author Share Posted November 22 (edited) 11-21-2024 Turbo Project Update. I got my J pipe and down pipe back from the welder, Juggernaut Welding. He gave them 3 coats of Cerakote dark graphite powder coating, and it is good to 1800 degrees F. I went ahead and brough a bunch of little things in the house and got them done, I got the Water Methanol injection nozzles installed and the hoses installed, put the plugs in the carb adaptor and wrapped the down pipe and J pipe with header wrap. I have a turbo blanket that matches the header wrap waiting. It's starting to come together. Pics follow. Edited November 22 by A to Z Jesus is the living Son of God Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A to Z Posted November 24 Author Share Posted November 24 (edited) 11-23-2024 TURBO PROJECT UPDATE. Hit the garage running today! Dropped the 2-1 exhaust and carburetors and prepped everything for install. I installed the Crown J pipe with a new gasket, and then installed the Crown log manifold, I then plugged the port for the second carb on my Pallnet fuel rail. Then I went ahead and installed the crown adaptor and 3 inch to 2 inch hose which goes between the carburetor and turbo inlet. I found that the hose that goes from the block to the PCV would not work with the crown intake, so I took cut a portion of the factory hose and attached a breather to it and attached it to the block. I also attached the valve cover breather using Loctite thread seal on everything. I took a break and ran to Ace Hardware and got some chrome button head screws for the manifold so it looks even better but was unable to get a plug to fill the PCV port, so I ordered one on eBay...M14x1.5 thread....so awaiting it.... stainless. Next I jumped on installing the oil supply line. Unfortunately, my oil feed line is about 8-10 inches short, if I want it to go all the way around the back. So I will look into a longer line. This line will work if I run it over the valve cover. I then added a few stickers under the hood, and mounted 2 of the 3 gauges to the Milkfab gauge plate. The 3rd gauge will be for the J*S Safeguard knock sensor which is also en-route. So, quite a bit accomplished. Pics follow. Cheers! Edited November 24 by A to Z Jesus Is Lord Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A to Z Posted November 26 Author Share Posted November 26 Cool writeup I found on my turbocharger: T3/T4 hybrid turbocharger assembly is created by installing a T4 compressor wheel and housing onto a T3 turbine housing wheel and center section. A T3/T4 hybrid turbocharger assembly is a compromise for engines where a T3 turbocharger is too small to reach the desired maximum horsepower but using a T4 turbocharger would create an unacceptable amount of turbo lag. The T3/T4 turbocharger is designed to be used on engines displacing 1.5L-3.0L and is typically good for around 400HP. They are also commonly used in twin turbo applications. In this case those figures would be doubled 3.2L-5.0L engines up to 800HP. Horsepower ratings are generally meant to express the turbochargers maximum airflow capability. Recommended boost pressures are 7psi(0.5 Bar) to 21psi(1.5 Bar) and boost pressures should not exceed 30psi(2 Bar). Exceeding 21psi(1.5 Bar) of boost pressure can significantly reduce a turbochargers lifespan. Generally speaking 14psi(1 Bar) is good for a 100% increase in horsepower from a naturally aspirated engine. Also factory non-turbo engines without forged internal components on high octane pump gas (91-92 octane) it is not recommended exceeding 7psi (.5 Bar) of boost. Doing so could result in damaging your engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A to Z Posted December 2 Author Share Posted December 2 12-01-2024 TURBO PROJECT UPDATE. Earlier I had mounted by Water Methanol tank, but it needed clearanceing so the hood would close. I had to make a spacer to get the hood spring out of the way, and used a spot of JB Weld to hold it permanently and a tie wrap for now until it dries.....and then I was able to fiddle around, drill some more holes, and finally get it in a good place. After that, I pulled the gas pedal and drilled out the ball end and made sure my clevis fit. The clevis is from MOTION, and yes, it is expensive....but I needed it. After drilling it out, I cleaned it up with the wire wheel attachment in my electric drill and gave it a shot of flat black paint. I also got my longer oil supply line for the turbo in and got it installed...much better. While there, I drilled out the spot welds holding on the factory bracket for the throttle rods. I will paint it up and then put a polished aluminum plate over that area. I am waiting on stuff now....the turbo, that was send out for carbon seals, the carburetor, and the J&S Safeguard knock sensor and individual cylinder timing control. Well a few pics from the day. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A to Z Posted December 2 Author Share Posted December 2 watch this video. I am going to try this: https://www.google.com/gasearch?q=spring over actuating rod for less boost&source=sh/x/gs/m2/5#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:bd6762a4,vid:UPaBGNzLEyM,st:0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A to Z Posted December 8 Author Share Posted December 8 12-07-2024 Turbo Project Update. Pearl Harbor Day. REMEMBER. Boy, today was a L O N G one. I started by porting the waste gate my hot side/turbine housing. I used white lithium grease to mark it, and then went out porting it until I was at a spot where I needed to leave enough for the foot to seal. then I got ready to clock the wheels, so that my oil drain would be right at the bottom and oil feed at the top. This is when the trouble started. My turbine would not bolt up to the J pipe. there was no room. So, I made a big mistake. I ASSUMED the T3 housing would be the same as the original RayJay housing....not even close. So, a decision had to be made....make a new J pipe or make all of this work I have done to install it...work. I went ahead and started cutting the inner fender to get the turbo to fit. unbelievable trial and error, fit, refit back and forth, after what seemed forever I was able to the put the turbo on, get it clocked. I ported out the oil drain hardware, as I have read that the 10AN kit that is sold tends to be just a hair to small and the oil can't drain fast enough, and will back up in the turbo. So, as the pics below show, I was able to get all of them ported out, and I assembled the drain line with thread sealant, installed it and then dropped the turbo back on. So, with 10-15% of the turbo in the wheel well now, and more needing to be cut, especially into the strut housing, I had to think it over, and I decided, I can have the mobile welder come over and weld up and reinforce the strut tower and all will be well....I also came up with a way to have the carb come back "in" completely to the engine compartment on an angle, and will sit right behind my snow performance water methanol pump, and the coil and electrical. It really took a along time to get the complete turbo in, I had to grind on the turbine housing and the brake master cylinder to get it to fit, and then a bit more so I was able to get the turbo blanket on as best as I could for now. I will get some high temp insulation to put between by brake lines and the turb as soon as I can. So, crisis averted. And when it is done, I will have it all cleaned up and will look very presentable. Pics follow. Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dat73z Posted December 8 Share Posted December 8 (edited) Not knocking your work, but what was the rationale behind cutting your shock tower in half which is a major structural component of your car versus reworking the Jpipe which can easily be modified or re-fabricated? It looks like even after severing the shock tower, your Jpipe still puts your turbine hot side into the brake master cylinder which has already been ground down? After looking through your build thread I see you modified the bolt-on jpipe from an old turbo kit. The chassis has already been cut but I would advise you remake or modify the jpipe to fit the turbo properly away from your brake system. You may be able to reuse your modified jpipe by simply changing the angle on either flange. Edited December 8 by Dat73z 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A to Z Posted December 9 Author Share Posted December 9 I appreciate your concern. No one else even asked about it. As I stated, the strut tower is going to be reinforced. the amount cut didn't completely cut it, and hasn't changed the ride height or anything, but will be addressed before leaving the garage. I have a guy I know and he is a mobile welder. He welded my coilovers, so with some thick plate and some sheet metal, he can come in from under the fender and build bracing and close it up. Will be perfectly safe and actually strong once done. The closeness to the brake master cylinder, I have worked on, and I will be putting a layer of high-temp insulation between them as a safety precaution, cut to fit, and is rated to 2400F. Attached is a drawing I have made. The welder is an active drag racer and his input will of course be taken to make it stronger that it was being just thick sheet metal spot welded together with bends from Yokohama. It will be stronger than it was. Even though it is just a cruiser, I wouldn't leave it weakened. It will be better than before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A to Z Posted December 9 Author Share Posted December 9 As I mentioned, the welder will do it the best way. Another crisis averted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dat73z Posted December 9 Share Posted December 9 (edited) Trust me when I say the heat from the turbo hot side effectively into your brake master cylinder and reservoirs even with a heat shield is not a good idea. Cruiser or not, it is dangerously close just from a heat perspective let alone movement of the driveline and even firewall/bmc from actually using the brakes making all of this worse. I'm not sure why you are opposed to simply cutting a flange you have already modified before and rewelding it to properly clear everything when you are willing to cut open the shock tower and elaborately plate it back in. Good luck Edited December 9 by Dat73z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A to Z Posted December 9 Author Share Posted December 9 (edited) I'm not willing to cut the tower...I already have! So why continue? Well, I guess because it was hell getting it in, and a little more clearance work can get it done at this point. I talked to my welder. When done the metal on the shock tower will basically look like a "c" channeled frame does when clearanced. I have some "Lyrufexon Ceramic Fiber" I can put between the brake master cylinder and the hot side. It is cut to fit, is 1" thick and has a rating of 2400 F. I will just have to make it look decent once installed. I understand what you are saying....but I am so far into going this route, that I am on the path and just have to finish it out. The mere thought of taking it out makes me weak just thinking about it. It is in, and tightened up and will function, just needs some more creativity. Edited December 9 by A to Z Jesus Is Lord Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A to Z Posted December 9 Author Share Posted December 9 (edited) Because the hot side of my turbo is right next to the brake master cylinder, I have purchased 2 items to keep the heat off of the master cylinder. The first is an exhaust blanket made by Heatshield Products with a continuous temp acceptance of 1800 f and then I also ordered a roll of 1" thick "Lyrufexon Ceramic Fiber" which has a tolerance up to 2400 f. Cheers! Edited December 9 by A to Z Jesus is the Living Son of God Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A to Z Posted Sunday at 07:27 AM Author Share Posted Sunday at 07:27 AM 12-15-2024 UPDATE: Today was one of those days where it felt like it was hard to get a lot done. Everything wanted to fight me...irritating. I started with removing the bolts from the driver's side motor mount, and carefully jacking under my oil pan with a wood block on top of the jack. I then installed 1/4" thick of grade 8 washers, along with grade 8 bolts and nuts. I worked on my exhaust, finding I only need a 5 inch piece to close it back up, and so I cut some old pipe I had, and it was tough, but I was able, with duct tape, to hold both flanges up and mark them and the pipe for reference to weld them on. I finished clearancing between the turbo and the brake master cylinder, and then cleaned up the area with brake cleaner. The master cylinder needs to be bled again. I also pulled the front wheel off and cleaned up the cut-out area a bit and got a 1-1.5 inch border of clean steel I can use to Panel bond cut and formed pieces of 16 ga. steel. I was able to cut to fit a new intake hose piece, and it sits well....not 100% straight, as the turbo no longer lines up perfectly with the intake, I did what I could. Pics: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calZ Posted Sunday at 07:45 AM Share Posted Sunday at 07:45 AM Changed from welding to now panel bonding? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A to Z Posted Sunday at 08:10 AM Author Share Posted Sunday at 08:10 AM (edited) The sheet metal, being pretty thin this isn't going to allow for a very deep weld. just tack welds. Additionally, in talking to a pro body and paint guy, he stated that 1-1.5 inch strip of 3m panel bond will be stronger than the metal itself, and so he recommended that. This isn't butt welds, but lap weld with a thick overlap. Where a weld would be 1/4 of an inch wide, the panel bond will be over an inch wide. Edited Sunday at 08:13 AM by A to Z Jesus Is Lord Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A to Z Posted Sunday at 08:20 AM Author Share Posted Sunday at 08:20 AM after complete I can also then take it to a shop and they could reinforce with a bead. No one wants to do mobile welding anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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