BillZ260 Posted October 31, 2003 Share Posted October 31, 2003 I was wanting to do this about 6 months ago when I started pulling the old swollen interior pannells out of my Z. So I read, and read and was getting into it UNTILL, I started to price the stuff. Seems like it would have been like 6-800 bucks just to make some very simple interior pannels and guage pods, ect. I did quite a bit of looking around but all the prices for the raw materials were just HIGH. If anyone makes some pannels, I am very interested in buying some, if you can do it on the cheap. ---------------------- Bill 1974 260Z 25,000 pc 3D jigsaw puzzle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zguy95135 Posted October 31, 2003 Share Posted October 31, 2003 i was thinking about learning how to make CF parts, but alas my Z has eaten all my money yea those raw materials are expensive. im going to see how it comes out in my school project first Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Z kid Posted November 7, 2003 Share Posted November 7, 2003 If all you racer type folk are going into something for all out lightweight, look at a material called nomex honeycomb, a couple of the foils on my boat are made out of the stuff, and it comes pre preg, but has to be baked, however a whole 14 foot boat made out of the stuff weighs less thatn 30kgs, and its stiff, structurally stiff. Come on I want to see some Z panels made from the stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S30Z Bushido Posted November 7, 2003 Share Posted November 7, 2003 Nomex composite is one of the major materials used in the new Ferrari Enzo's body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest penguin Posted November 14, 2003 Share Posted November 14, 2003 http://www.hexcelcomposites.com/NR/rdonlyres/e77xw2ndphohs2g2qtpg2ks3goh4bckrztbdkvtw3q3ivr2t6w6axoezvb2bv33wobwlnm3l7wvz6dlnltmo3sejkmc/4547SandwichFabrication.pdf read that first. you dont need a vacuum setup, which is rather expensive, but it will make it easier to create stronger lighter panels. the important thing is thoroughly wet out your fabric for the lay up, and then once it is on, use a roller to press the excess resin out. also, order an aircraft parts catalog from aircraft spruce supply. yeah, i know you dont drive an airplane, but it will have all the resins mechanical properties in depth in case your are wondering. http://www.aircraftspruce.com i think. you can also blend if you want. in the pdf file from hexcel there, it talks about 1T and 2T layers. you can make the inside layers kevlar and the outside layers carbon. the most important thing over all i would say is get a good structural resin, even if youre making a non structural piece. this will allow you to make the piece much thinner and lighter. also, start small. do your hood SECOND, try a gauge panel first. once youve got it down, saw out your roof panel and replace it with carbon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted November 23, 2003 Share Posted November 23, 2003 now i would definatly like to see pictures of the roof being hacksawed out and composite layed lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest penguin Posted November 24, 2003 Share Posted November 24, 2003 well, i got the idea from bmw's 2003 m3 race car. the roof section really isnt much of a load bearing panel if you have a roll cage. you need to leave the structure of the a,b, and c pillars, and the interconnecting horizontal beams. then, just fab up a panel that also connects to your roll cage inside. now, i have to say, this is a theory! i havent tried this. yet. i will, but it will be awhile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest penguin Posted December 6, 2003 Share Posted December 6, 2003 ok, in case no one ran out and bought racecar engineering like i suggested, this month they listed thicknesses for major manufacterers. listed; formula renault 2000 - 1.5mm skins over 20mm alum honeycomb renyard formula nippon - 2mm skins over 15-20mm alum honeycomb pilbeam - 1.5mm over 10mm honeycomb (kevlar?) with unidirectional strenghting in high stress areas gould - 1-3mm skins over 18mm alum force - 1.2mm skins over 15mm alum, thicker skins around high stress areas lola f3000 - 3mm skins, no info on core dallara - 2mm skins, 3.5mm on sides with kevlar skin on the outside, no core info firehawk - 1.5mm on 13mm kevlar comb the accepted rule is 1.5mm on 10-15mm core. but that is for a racing tub. for interior panels, obviously, skip the cores Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zsane Posted December 6, 2003 Share Posted December 6, 2003 I made a mold from my Harley gas tank using mold release and it didn't hurt the paint at all, I've been researching this too, and as mentioned above, the problem with carbon fiber is getting it to look good, to make a strong light part that is to be painted is one thing, but if you want to see the grain and have it look good you'll have a whole differant deal. I talked to a place that did carbon fiber work and the autoclave impregnated method is where you get the high quality stuff, the more complicated the shape the harder it will be. Go buy a small amount and start doing small 3" x 3" wet layup test pieces. you'll get the picture. Get some mold release and coat say an old piece of tupperware, then layup a couple pieces of carbon fiber on it, the side againt the mold will look sharp, the otherside not, then work your way up. experiment. Tap plastics can help to get started. Experiment a bit. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240ZR Posted February 7, 2006 Share Posted February 7, 2006 Tell me when you make CF doors... then Ill be intersted.... just just a Cf drivers door... lol..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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