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New R200 disasemble Q


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Please give me some advice... I found a good deal on a brand new in the box R200 3:7 (or 3:9) complete with side flanges and pinion flange, for $395.00 and I'm buying the 3:7.

I want to just take and open it up and remove the carrier/ring gear and put the ring gear on a LSD carrier I have, to make it a brand new 3:7 R200 with a good used LSD carrier.

 

I really want to remove the side bearings off the new open carrier and put them on the used LSD carrier to keep all the specs the same, and have all new bearings also.

 

So........ to make a long story short :roll: Do you think I will get lucky and have the back lash come out ok?

Since I'm not touching the pinion, that should stay like it came from the factory, right??

 

I'm thinking if I put it all back together in the reverse order that I took it apart, ( just a carrier swap) I should have a sweet brand new, almost :D ( used carrier is fine) 3:7 LSD

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Best info I can give is a Nissan service manual. They have detailed insturctions on how to R&R the diff and the availabiltiy of shims if you do need to adjust backlash.

 

You can check it before you take it apart, then reassemble with new stuff and check it again to see if you are still in spec.

 

You will need some sort of bearing puller to get the bearings switched, and another way to get them on.

 

I use a press and bearing separator to install and remove bearings. The first set I did however, the originals were junk so i actually cut the old ones off and installed new ones with a hammer. Ahh, the good ol' days :roll:

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Once again, thanks Mike for your input. I do have a FSM with only the R180/R200 open diff in it, so I can see and understand the basic layout, and having taken a couple apart it looks to be fairly simple...... except the back lash part of it.

 

I'm confident they ( open vrs LSD ) would be checked the same way as in in the manual, so all I have to worry about is playing with the wipe ( if need be) to get this new set up right.

 

I feel that getting a brand spankin new R200 from the dealer for $395.00 is worth my investment, and to know I have alot of future miles with a new part like that. The learning curve part I can handle, with a little help from you guys.. :D

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I have a book at home (ASE Drive train study guide) that says the ring gear and pinion are lapped at the factory as a set and should only be used together as a set. With that being said you should IMHO replace the ring and the pinion into the LSD then check your wipe patern and shim as needed.

 

Dragonfly

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If I had the parts, I would try it. Here is a little info I have learned.

 

Remove all of the ring gear bolts. On a piece of plywood or rubber mat, place carrier on end with ring gear teeth facing down. Use a drift in the bolt holes to knock the ring gear loose. Work your way around the outside slowly and easily.

 

When you are ready to install the ring on the LSD plan ahead a little. About an hour before you start, put the carrier in the refrigerator. Go ahead and preheat your oven to ~175 or so. "Cook" the ring gear for about 30 minutes. This way it will drop right on the carrier and you can snug the bolts up with no danger of warping the ring gear mounting face. There is a interference fit between these two parts obviously...

 

You are supposed to replace ring gear bolts everytime, but I have reused them with no problems. Same with pinion nut. I have not had as good of luck with used pinion nuts, on occasion they can work loose, so I would get a new one.

 

The actual installation and backlash of diff is the same for the open carrier and the LSD.

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In looking at the diameters, you could probably use Dana 60 shims. But because they need to be driven in to keep bearing preload, this could be very difficult stacking some thin shims. The GM diffs aftermarket shims consist of two end plates with thinner shims between them to adjust overall thickness, and the package is nearly twice as thick as the Nissan shims. This can then be driven as a set into the case. (Bearing preload needs to be about .010 or so, so not a whole lot.)

 

Most likely the shims that are in there will be fine, but if not, the Nissan ones are the correct way to do it... Backlash on the R200 was very high compared to domestics I have worked on (working from memory here) something like .013-.018 vs. .003-.008. It may be that if you are a little too loose or too tight, may be able to swap the two thin shims side to side. Looks like the thicker shim is used depending on what gear ratio the housing originally came with. The Nissan service manual shows what are available and how much moving one or the other affects back lash.

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I fell compelled to reply, since I just did this about 2 weeks ago.

My diff was a 4.11 I bought a used 3.7 LSD unbolted it all and put it in w/new bearings (Nissan sourced, what a fool I was for those 3 min it took to order them) It all fit fine. Backlash was .010, which is a bit high but was recommended to me by the ITS team. I used the shims from the 4.11:1. No issues. I didn't like the breakaway torque (22 lbs). Other than that this was a really easy swap. I totally agree with the heating and freezing. Dry ice may do you better (or maybe the shop freezer is marginal) I also agree with the locktite. I would add: use green (sleeve retainer) on the ring gear bolts. also think about dissassembling the LSD unit itself and cleaning out the gunk that is a result of normal usage. Order the friction plates NOW part # 38433-N9000 'cause I think they are gonna go away soon. Already the dealer told me the Steels are NLA.

I set my bcaklash a bit loose because in the ITS car (R180) we burned up a 2 LSD's running them at factory specs. when the backlash was opened up, the problem went away. True the R180 is smaller. I didn't think it would cause a problem and it hasn't. The rearend is quiet. Don't forget the additive for the LSD.

you can do this with no problem

sorry for the long post.

Oh, I almost forgot. Please carefully check the fit of the bearings onto the diff.. If you can mic the old and the new and the left and the right. I've seen the ring gear side get spun. It will be evident if it has. But a bit of measuring may save you some grief. I had mine electoless nickel coated to build it up. On my parts it was evident becuse the bearing just came off NO pressing. when you press 'em pay attention to how much effort it takes to move 'em.

hope this helps

luigi

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