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Fitment Issues With Toyota 4 Piston Calipers?


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My front calipers are shot, so i've decided to go with the popular Toyota 4-pot upgrade with cross-drilled stock rotors. I was wondering if anyone is running this setup with the 14x7f 14x8r aftermarket slotted aluminum wheels (the ones in my sig pic)

 

i've also decided to swap out the drums in the rear with 280zx calipers and cross drilled rotors, i'm running 14x8 slots in the back.

 

Do you think there would be any issues with the brakes fitting under these wheels? thanks!

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JMO, but there is no reason to beef up the caliper and leave the rotor stock. Steel lines and stock pads and this thing stops so hard my tires wont stand for it.

 

For repeated stopping power you will want vented rotors and brake ducting.

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see, but the thing is i need to replace my front calipers anyway. and i found a deal where i can get freshly rebuilt toyota calipers with x-drilled rotors as well as 280zx rear calipers and x-drilled rotors for 350 bucks shipped. i figure it's a good deal and will stop wayyy better than what i have on there now. i know that there are big advantages with going with vented rotors but i think this setup will do me just fine. the car is just being used as a weekend warrior basically, no racing really... what do you think?

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I wouldn't go by what anybody here tells you for specific fitment. Each wheel is slightly different in shape and might or might not fit. Since there is no such thing as a factory optional wheel, we can't say for sure either way. All the alloy wheels on the early cars were dealer installed and were simply aftermarket wheels, so there were many brands and styles. I would suggest going to an Autozone and buying one '85 Toy caliper and trying it on for size before you get the rest of the parts. Take off the dust shield, but don't bother hooking up the brake line. Bolt the wheel back on and check for clearance/interference. I did this with a '89 Toy caliper for the vented rotor behind a set of 14x6 Enkei wheels and they cleared with room to spare, but that doesn't mean yours will. How much clearance do you have now between the backside of the wheel and the front face of the stock caliper? The Toy caliper will stick out farther in this direction.

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Jeff, The reason he SHOULD ask is because most of us have done lots of these conversions and if we can save him some effort, then why not ask? This isn't your average website... :?

 

I also want to echo Mudge's comments about NOT using a cross drilled rotor. Vented rotors are mucho better on the front... Solid rotors suck in general. Hell my 1990 Civic even has vented rotors... Small, but vented!

:shock:

Mike

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JC Whitney is one place to get rotors, or price them out at your local auto parts store. As for pads, I am looking to try out some Hawk pads for my car on the fronts (stock rear!), I have seen them at I believe one place I think for $40 or $50. Some people are brand loyal (that might be me), I've only used Hawk pads and I like them on the street (HPS compount). I have heard some bad things about the EBC Greens, but that was on larger cars.

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"i know that there are big advantages with going with vented rotors but i think this setup will do me just fine. the car is just being used as a weekend warrior basically, no racing really... what do you think?"

 

Big step backward with those swiss cheese solid rotors.....less mass to prevent fade and reduced friction surface for braking. I ONLY support vented/slotted setups when it's OEM designed (ie. Porsche with cast 'holy' rotors) or pure race and still properly designed.......I've seen so many cracked up drilled setups it makes me shiver.

 

Long story short, good rotors (NOT drilled) and good pads if dollars or clearance is not their....and if you have clearance then look at vented 4x4, and for more my Xtreme's or similar.

 

One pair of good/new rotors with KVR pads and rebuilt calipers would outdo that drilled cheesehead rotor with 4pot IMO.

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Mike and others, I didn't mean that he shouldn't ask the question, but that he shouldn't, in this particular case, take answers as gospel either. I'd hate for him to buy calipers, rotors and linings to have them not work on his particular car. I have owned several Z cars with the slotted mags and they are all slightly different. All I was suggesting was that he do a trial fit before spending big bucks. That said, this is the one site that I would trust to get accurate info. Heck, I asked exactly the same question a while back, but about the vented rotor swap and Panasport wheels. In my case I didn't want to buy wheels that won't package over the brakes.

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if you are going 4x4 just to replace a oem caliper, think thats a good idea, since autozone and kragen dont check their cores. i thought they stopped way better than my busted up stock brakes, but now i have had the chance to run a 100% nicely functioning stock system, and im happy with them, just stock with reman Nissan Calipers, ss lines, drilled rotors( i dont know if they do anything but they make the swiss cheese noise) new drums and shoes,

Im not looking to do anything else until i start going for the rear discs, then i will probably do something nice in the front with a vented rotor

BUT NOT TONITE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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If it doesn't cost much more than a stock replacement caliper, it could give you a little more braking and improved pad wear, but I can honestly say that my stock brakes with steel lines kill the tires. I smoked them badly today after locking them up, and I wasn't even on the brakes that hard, I just do NOT have enough rubber under the car :(

 

I was at SIR with another car with 225 wide Kumho V700s (racey street tires) and he could stand on his brakes, must be CRAZY!

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well i took a look at how the stock front calipers fit behind the front wheel and there is a little bit less than a finger space between them. i guess i'll just rebuild the stock calipers up front and get some discs in the back, at least until i change my wheels.

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