Guest De Schmaydee Posted May 16, 2003 Share Posted May 16, 2003 ....really shouldnt post until i get further along in my testing...but.... ....i just installed my new i.c. and all the piping......and the car idles roughly (and lower)....and doesnt build boost (as much or as quick) as it did......although it does seem to have more power per psi ....i can understand the "not as quick" but not the "not as much".....what kinda of effect does a leak in the i.c. (or piping) have...in so far as the way the car runs (at idle).....mine kinda lopes or runs unevenly.... i've checked the timing...its still good. and replaced the plug wires (just in case i screwed one of those up in the install).....are there any adjustments/tweaks that need to be done after putting in an i.c? i have made up a pressure tester for the piping and i.c.....figured i'd run in 25psi and see if it will keep it in there a minute or 2...... would that be an accurate (enough) test? thanks, ...s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottyMIz Posted May 17, 2003 Share Posted May 17, 2003 hey steve good to hear you got your ic in and the test you talked about is a good idea.Or you could just use carb cleaner or lube and spray it on all the joints or where ever you think it is leaking at the car willl idle lower when you hit the right spot.Mine runs unevenly but it's cuz of the big injectors.Mine hauls ass now i have her at 15 psi with timz's ic andman that thing is scary I can't wait for 20psi she will be insane.I also noticed when i rev her up it sucks the afm twords the turbo When you let off it goes back where it was now that definately tells me i need a new ems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Len Posted May 17, 2003 Share Posted May 17, 2003 Hi Guys I have the same "lope" like a hot cam. I have a NPR I/C. I've tried nearly everything. It even ran crappy when cold. I wired a switch to dissconnect my engine temp sensor (so it will run rich until warm) until it warmed up(then clicked it back in line after it warmed up). You might play with your timing a bit. Datsun book says to start with 24 degrees BTDC. When I turned it to around 30 degrees it ran better. Now I'm replacing my injector connectors to see how that may help. But I've got a lope too currently! Your car looks real good Scotty! Len Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cody 82 ZXT Posted May 17, 2003 Share Posted May 17, 2003 The main thing that I would check is for a vacuum leak. Like Scotty said try the carb cleaner or what works even better for me is starting fluid. Don't forget to check the weird areas like the dip stick tube and oil cap seal. It's places like this that have driven me crazy over the years but, have given good results when they were found. Also it seems to me like zip tieing your vacuum connections also help sto prevent them from blowing off and to seal them up better. I've even heard of some one who had a rear main seal leak and that was causeing the car to run rough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yo2001 Posted May 17, 2003 Share Posted May 17, 2003 How much vaccum are you pulling? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest De Schmaydee Posted May 17, 2003 Share Posted May 17, 2003 .....the intercooler leaks like a sieve....between the two cores....they werent put together right... .....JUST LIKE EVERYTHING ELSE CORKEY BELL DOES..... ........smart guy i'm sure....but everything he has made (or had made) for me has been a disaster......the external wastegate flange on my exhaust man. had to be completely redone...the 12 injector manifold and fuel rails were made for "O" ring injectors (i even sent him one of the stock injs for fitting)..... ...i dont know if this could be repaired or not.......i'm sure it wouldnt be right if i sent it back to him to fix....it leaks where the 2 cores butt together (in the middle of the i.c.) @ the end tanks......there are no fins there....i wonder if lead could be poured in there (or j.b. weld)...$800 shot straight to he!!..........s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted May 17, 2003 Share Posted May 17, 2003 .....the intercooler leaks like a sieve....between the two cores....they werent put together right........JUST LIKE EVERYTHING ELSE CORKEY BELL DOES..... ........smart guy i'm sure....but everything he has made (or had made) for me has been a disaster......the external wastegate flange on my exhaust man. had to be completely redone...the 12 injector manifold and fuel rails were made for "O" ring injectors (i even sent him one of the stock injs for fitting)..... ...i dont know if this could be repaired or not.......i'm sure it wouldnt be right if i sent it back to him to fix....it leaks where the 2 cores butt together (in the middle of the i.c.) @ the end tanks......there are no fins there....i wonder if lead could be poured in there (or j.b. weld)...$800 shot straight to he!!..........s That's very surprising to me. Have you got any pictures you can post of this? Wow, major problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest De Schmaydee Posted May 17, 2003 Share Posted May 17, 2003 .....this is kinda hard to get to: http://www.imagestation.com/album/edit/index.html?album_id=4290320505&start=1&show_all=1&referrer=%2Falbum%2F%3Fid%3D4290320505 username is :schmaydee the password is:32103210 ...if you look at the i.c. you'll see where the 2 i.c. cores butt against each other (in the middle of the i.c.) where they connect to the intanks (on both sides) it leaks badly......i held it under water and pumped air into it.... ....s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lockjaw Posted May 18, 2003 Share Posted May 18, 2003 Call them up, get an RA and send it back. Don't mess with fixing it yourself. You paid for a good non-leaking intercooler, make them deliver. I chose to go with Spearco rather then Bell. Glad I did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted May 18, 2003 Share Posted May 18, 2003 What Lockjaw said...and I still can't believe that thing was not pressure tested before it shipped. When you pay that much for a part, it damn well better be right! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lockjaw Posted May 19, 2003 Share Posted May 19, 2003 This still pisses me off to think about it. Make them cover the shipping to and from as well. I mean mistakes happen, but this is inexcusable if you ask me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest De Schmaydee Posted May 19, 2003 Share Posted May 19, 2003 .....called and talked to corkey today......real nice guy....kinda hard to stay mad at him....he said send it back and he'll fix it or get me a new one.....i went ahead and jb welded it held real well.....but then another leak appeared (or...i noticed it then)....so i'm goin' after that one now..... .....i've had this thing for over a year (i just installed it last week) and i told him i had already tried to jb weld it....and he didnt balk a bit about fixing it or replacing it after all this time....so everthing is cool.......i talked to my man at turbo-auto here in nashville he said people epoxy them all the time and they do alright.....so i'm gonna give it a whirl......dont guess its that big of a deal....as long as the jb weld does the trick......i've had very good luck w/it in the past......that's some wonderful stuff..... ...s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yo2001 Posted May 19, 2003 Share Posted May 19, 2003 what is up with your "......"? It's hard to read like that Anyway, JB weld, zip ties and pop rivets rule all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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