best 240 turbo options.

[Guest Anonymous]

What are they?

 

I read around and i see that for the sake of simplicity id have to get some sort of EFI setup since carbeuration and turbo dont seem to agree.

 

Im getting a 1970 240Z as a project car. The motor will remain the L24 but will be FULLY built. Forged rods, pistons, etc....I intend on running large amounts of boost. in the range of 20-30 psi. 30 only for race applications.

 

What id like to know is what EFI system can i use with this block? And are they cheap? Are there benefits of having the p90 head compared to the e88 head? Will i need to buy a new head for the EFI manifold to bolt up or will one bolt right to the stock e88 head?

 

any info would be great

 

thanks

[Guest livewire23]

any particular reason why you want to retain the L24? IMO you'd be better off just getting a L28 block and getting it all over with. Believe me its much cheaper to grab a full turbo system than try to frankenstein a N/A motor. And I already had EFI...

[Guest Anonymous]

any particular reason why you want to retain the L24? IMO you'd be better off just getting a L28 block and getting it all over with. Believe me its much cheaper to grab a full turbo system than try to frankenstein a N/A motor. And I already had EFI...

 

I dunnow hy id like to keep the stock block. I guess i like working with what ive got.

 

would it really be that hard to get a intake for a 280z turbo to fit the 240s stock head?

[Guest livewire23]

well, you've got to remember that you'd also have to fit on a turbo exhaust, which is designed for the L28 too. And then you'd have to get some sort of fuel management for the injectors. And you'd have to get a better fuel pump. And I think I remember someone saying something about the fuel tank too. I'd say you'd be much better off with a donor 280zxt for these parts. but then if you've got the ZXT right in front of you, then why not take the whole motor?

[yo2001]

L24,L26,and L28 are all physically the same dimension. I won't be scared to run turbo on built L24. I woulf over bore it on later block (like F54) and go with 86mm bore or larger. That's make the car not much less than 2.6L I think.

 

Also run the turbo cam and other turbo components. Are you Dylan that I know

[Z-Gad]

Don't forget, if you plan on running the stock head, you'll have to drill it for EFI...

[Lockjaw]

You will need the P90 head since it is cut for fuel injectors. Everything in the 240 engine except the pistons is already forged.

 

If you can find a wrecked 280ZX turbo, that will simplify the process. You won't be able to run the kind of boost you want with that set-up, you will have to go to a stand alone and large injectors.

 

You will also need a good hubrid turbo, the stock one won't cut it.

[Guest Anonymous]

L24' date='L26,and L28 are all physically the same dimension. I won't be scared to run turbo on built L24. I woulf over bore it on later block (like F54) and go with 86mm bore or larger. That's make the car not much less than 2.6L I think.

 

Also run the turbo cam and other turbo components. Are you Dylan that I know [/quote']

 

yes i am

 

I think i've found my solution

 

Ive done a good bit of reading, and it looks like a sr20det motor is a fairly simple swap. The motor can withstand lots of boost and its fairly cheap. Now i have to learn how to get the computer to run.

[fl327]

nah, simplest swap is L28et and a Na five speed trans. bolts right in.

efi could take a little bit to dial in. but its a good setup to start with.

if you do your shopping right, it could cost you less than 1000.00 to make it drive around and boost.

[CU Zcar]

Yea I looked briefly once into JDM imported SR20 front clips, looked like many were in the $2000+ range, and those won't bolt in (I don't think?) like an L28ET where you can find a whole running, driving car for less than that. However, if you want to do things different an SR20 would be cool and lightweight.

Seemed like RB20DET front clips were a lot cheaper than SR20, maybe it was just the one deal I saw but that's probably a question to take to the RB-series forum.

[Guest Anonymous]

i fond an sr20det motor on ebay with a rwd transmission for 1200 and that place nippon motors sells sr20's with tranny for $1000, I think those are reasonable prices.

 

My only problem, I cant find anyone who has done an sr20 swap. I looked all over the RB forum and no one seems to have done this and written about it. Ive heard a few whisps here and there about it being done but nothing concrete. Does anyone know of someone else who may have done this and knows what steps are involved etc...?

[Guest livewire23]

im not sure if anyone's done it. for most people (myself included) the idea of putting a four banger into a car that came with a six is a bit of a turn-off. I plan on being the 3rd or 4th person with a 7MGTE, so don't you go and steal my idea!! The SR aught to be interesting, if only because of its weight. Seems like a tiny engine for such a big bay though, you could probably move the radiator back and fit the intercooler inside the engine bay too.

[Guest Anonymous]

im not sure if anyone's done it. for most people (myself included) the idea of putting a four banger into a car that came with a six is a bit of a turn-off. I plan on being the 3rd or 4th person with a 7MGTE, so don't you go and steal my idea!! The SR aught to be interesting, if only because of its weight. Seems like a tiny engine for such a big bay though, you could probably move the radiator back and fit the intercooler inside the engine bay too.

 

haha i wont steal any ideas. In my opinion i dont mind downgrading two more cylinders as long as the sr20 lives up to its name. All ive heard are rumors about i being done id LOVE it if someone who knew about it would post here!!! PLEASE!!!!!!!!!

[Guest Zcarsmakemyheadhurt]

First off, and I don't want to diss anyone but where do you come up with running 20-30psi? Just because it sounds good? You should be thinking of how much horspower your looking to make. The next thing that makes me cringe is the cost issue, if you have one dont think about boosting that high or looking for super hi horsepower. You try to spend as little as possable, we all do but this stuff cost. Then your gonna buy a Jap only engine that you will have to fabricat mounts for and hopefully it will go in level without any major problems I dont know what your experience is with engine swaps so who knows. Stick with a L6 if your going to build a engine build a long rod motor they hold up to the super hi boost you are looking to push. Good luck man.

[Guest Anonymous]

First off, and I don't want to diss anyone but where do you come up with running 20-30psi? Just because it sounds good? You should be thinking of how much horspower your looking to make. The next thing that makes me cringe is the cost issue, if you have one dont think about boosting that high or looking for super hi horsepower. You try to spend as little as possable, we all do but this stuff cost. Then your gonna buy a Jap only engine that you will have to fabricat mounts for and hopefully it will go in level without any major problems I dont know what your experience is with engine swaps so who knows. Stick with a L6 if your going to build a engine build a long rod motor they hold up to the super hi boost you are looking to push. Good luck man.

 

I dont say 20-30 psi of boost because it sounds cool. I say it because i intend to use it. Why do you assume that i dont intend to use it? I want to make over 400 at the crank. Cost isnt really an issue with me. I kn ow what i want to do. I have plenty of friends that are running close to 30 psi on stock 4g63 blocks, and they are more than willing to help me out with whatever they can.

[SleeperZ]

To make 400rwhp with any sort of reasonable displacement (more than 2 liters), it is not necessary to run 30 psi of boost pressure. It's not boost pressure that makes the horsepower, it's the airflow. All the powerful L28ETs and RB swaps in Zs here are making that power with 20 psi and LESS boost pressure. The key is to get an efficient turbo, an efficient intercooler, a good free-flowing exhaust, and a good flowing head with possibly a turbo cam. The boost pressure is a byproduct of a poorly flowing engine.

 

There are very few turbochargers that will support that airflow at 30psi manifold pressure - that means the pressure ratio the turbo sees is greater than 3:1. Even fewer will deliver that pressure efficiently, and that air will still be HOT! So you need a better intercooler, and that will drop more pressure to cool the air off.

 

IMHO, if you are seriously considering that much pressure, you are talking much more than 400rwhp, and you will need a dual stage turbo setup.

[Lockjaw]

20 to 30 psi is a lot of boost to run, and it costs money to properly prep the motor to handle it. DSM or not.

 

You also have to understand how hard that sort of boost level is on a turbo. That takes some insane shaft speeds to get there.

 

FWIW.

[yo2001]

I'm not against the idea of SR20DET. but why not 20-30psi on L28ET? 400HP isn't hard out of 2.8L. There are many new turbos that you can 400HP if you don't mind spending the money.

[Guest shuyun]

You just need one of these should be good for 20lb with proper trubo

 

http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/album_pic.php?pic_id=874

 

The car had a built 2.6 but burnt up the valve train and motor was stolen form the shop it was sent to for rebuild. Right know should be good for around 300+ at the wheels when I get the 2.8 in to it.

[Guest Anonymous]

well im not sure how much pressure id need, thats why i said 20-30. And thats also why im here asking questions. 20-30 is a large range, if its on the low end of 20 then fine if its on the high end of 20 then thats fine too. Ill do what i have to. Keep in mind I'm still learning.