Mikelly Posted May 27, 2003 Share Posted May 27, 2003 Guys, We're looking at fabing up some tubular tie rods for the Z. In an old catalog from Arizona Zcar Dave used to sell these... Don't bother looking on the site, as We couldn't find them, which leads me to think he quit. My question is this: Using a stock Nissan Rack, Is anyone using a modified, or Custom tie rod? All the units I've seen employee a Heim joint outboard at the steering knuckle... This would do a couple of things to aid in handling as well as aid in using my control arms to their fullest extent... If using a NISMO quick steer knuckle apparantly the Cone Killer crew had issues with running out of threads on the tie rod to rack point. I've not had this issue in setting up my car, as I'm running the same units, but They did and their cars are currently NOT in pieces... Ian and Steve don't use the quick steer knuckles and have had NO issue at all with binding of the TC Rod or in camber adjustment... The other benefit with the tubular tie rod would be the bump steer issue... Lots of racers heat the tie rod and straighten it... this would do away with it all together...AND with the cost of tie rods going up per pair, might be a way to do away with them all together... Any thoughts??? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted May 27, 2003 Share Posted May 27, 2003 hey use an extra washer to pull the tierod thru alittle more and it also gives you a couple more treads. thats what i did on mine. [/img] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted May 28, 2003 Share Posted May 28, 2003 Custom tubular tie rod ends, internally threaded each end to screw onto the rack and a rod end (Heim thingo) are a future mod for mine. At present stock rod ends with the ball joint part cut off and the outer shaft externally threaded to screw into a female rod end are used, although I sometimes have doubts about the integrity of such a mod. Any custom tubular tie rod ends should be long enough for those who run big negative camber, with plenty of internal thread so they can be cut shorter if required. Material? Dunno, but a good grade steel would seem sufficient, chrome moly perhaps, depending on weight and cost? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.