Jump to content
HybridZ

DAMPER QUESTION


Recommended Posts

I used a 6 3/4 damper for my set back conversion. I used to have the 8 inch damper. Well my car runs fine but when I shoot the timing the marks say like 50 degrees advanced? If I turn it back much it will die. Is there any difference in the timing marks on a smaller damper? If I were 180 out would it still run and show the marks like that? Can any one offer some advice? Thanks in advance.

 

CZ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I believe there are two different possible possitions for the indicator on the timing cover. One for the passenger side and one for the drivers side. I am not sure how far apart they are as far as angle though. You probably have a timing cover for one style and a balancer for the other style. If you could findthe angle difference then you could adjust the readings accordingly. Maybe someone can chime in with the angle difference or tell me if I am mistaken about the two covers/balancers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Crankshafts were changed to move the keyway some time in the '70's. But the difference was only around 10 degrees. Perhaps you have a combination of one of these older cranks (or of the older design) and the wrong timing indexer?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

before you do ANYTHING ELSE,FIND THE TRUE LOCATION OF TDC, and ADJUST BOTH THE DAMPER AND TIMING TAB TO MATCH

 

THE INTAKE , ON OR OFF HAS NO EFFECT, JUST BE SURE TO TAKE THE ENGINE OUT OF GEAR AND PUT THE PARKING BRAKE ON AND REMOVE THE ROCKER ARMS FROM CYLINDER #1 BEFORE STARTING SO YOU DON,T DAMAGE THE VALVES AND REMOVE THE PLUGS FROM THE OTHER CYLINDERS TO MAKE THE ENGINE EASY TO TURN WITH A BREAKER BAR AND DISCONNECT THE BATTERY SO NO ONE HITS THE STARTER AND DAMAGES A PISTON

 

77866792.jpg

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=3316&prmenbr=361" look closely you can easily build your own with a 7/16" tap and an old spark plug and a 7/16" bolt http://www.2quicknovas.com/happyTDC.html ok heres how you do it without spending much money, first get a majic marker and pull all your spark plugs. make a piston stop from an old spark plug and bolt. remove the rocker arms from cylinder #1 install the piston stop and BY HAND NOT THE STARTER rotate the engine untill the piston stops when it hits the piston stop as it almost reaches TDC, take the majic marker and draw a line on your timeing tab exactly even with the timeing line on your damper, now rotate the engine in the other direction untill it stops and again take the majic marker and draw a line on your timeing tab exactly even with the timeing line on your damper the marks will be about 1'-1.5" apart depending on how far down the cylinder the piston stopped., TDC on the tab is exactly in the center of the two marks, now remove the piston stop, rotate the damper to the CORRECT TDC location hopefullly its where the factory line says it should be) if not remark the tab or bend it enough to have TDC on the tab correctly located

the further you screw in the piston stop the lower in the cylinder the piston is stopped, and the further apart the two marks will be but TDC will still be centered between the two marks in the timeing tab of course if you stop the piston extremely low in the cylinder the marks will be so far apart that they don,t fit on the timing tab, I try for stopping the piston about 1/8" down in the cylinder

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Grumpy, TDC checks out. What if I put the distributor in 1 tooth off past the number 1 spark plug setting? Should the rotor actually point just before the #1 plug or towards the #1 piston? Maybe I have it seated a little off? Could that be the problem? Wouldnt hurt to check I guess.....

 

CZ :?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

During assembly, I put my thumb on the first spark plug hole...I turned the engine over by hand until the timing mark landed on zero. The pressure would blow my thumb off the hole so I knew it was the compression stroke. I then put in the distributor so that the rotor would point towards the #1 plug. Thats it, however when I start it I have to twist it counter clockwise to get it to run it best. Maybe I put the distributor in too far right of the #1 plug? Must Have More Advise....Id hate to drop the pan etc and find the timing gear are OK. Does that help? :cry:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Spiirit, OK we checked TDC and it came out just right. The mark was the same as I had set it initially. The rotor points to the #1 piston as well. The car also starts right up. The timing marks are still like 50. If i rotate either way too much it will die. Again I have changed from an 8 inch Damper to a 6 3/4. Could this thing be the problem? Im going nuts but it seems to run fine. I advanced it until the starter started working to turn it over and then backed it down a bit. Now it will start right up and rev etc without back firing or anything. We are baffled...what else could it be? The drive gear on the distributor vs cam would not make a degree difference would it? I was told it was all compatible when I bought it. Your move ole wise one..... :roll:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Spiirit, OK we checked TDC and it came out just right. The mark was the same as I had set it initially. The rotor points to the #1 plug wire as well. The car also starts right up. The timing marks are still like 50. If i rotate either way too much it will die. Again I have changed from an 8 inch Damper to a 6 3/4. Could this thing be the problem? Im going nuts but it seems to run fine. I advanced it until the starter started working to turn it over and then backed it down a bit. Now it will start right up and rev etc without back firing or anything. We are baffled...what else could it be? The drive gear on the distributor vs cam would not make a degree difference would it? I was told it was all compatible when I bought it. Your move ole wise one..... :roll:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the help. I have just read that this new damper as compared to the old is set differently. about 8 degrees different. I just order the timing tape for this thing so I can see what is truely going on. If it doesnt check out then, I guess I have to drop the pan/cover and degree the cam. The marks were lined up just right however, so maybe the cam grind was out of whack....it sucks hard being in Japan without knowledgable V8 mechanics. I would rather pay someone to fix this and just drive it home. I can do 80% of anything needed but this wrench in the gear takes the cake....Im tired!!! At any rate the exhuast goes on Friday and it does burn the tires off like is so I will do my proper break in and hope nothing breaks out! Hey Im upgrading to a 383 new block when I get home anyway so I just need this thing to last alittle longer....

:cry:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...