DavyZ Posted July 20, 2003 Share Posted July 20, 2003 OK, this is sticky situation that I have here: I have a 6-quart oil pan with baffles and swinging doors with a kickout on the left side--made for drag racing and circle track I believe. The sticky is this: there is welding slag and/or rust in the sump area NOT easily accessible, behind the swinging doors. I have done my best by scrubbing the areas using a tooth-brush, WD-40, Liquid Wrench, Berryman's Carb cleaner, etc. I did manage to remove some slag, some rust, and whatever else was down there, but there is still more left, and I cut my fingers up pretty darn good in the process---mmmm, liquid wrench under cuts....feels good...NOT! From what I can tell, there is still stuff left in there!!! I was thinking about using POR-15 or somethinglike that to seal whatever else is left--just on the bottom of the pan, mind you, not on the hinges or oil plug threads!! Is this a bad idea for the inside of the oil pan? Will the stuff come loose in this environment? Will my motor be toast? Would you chance it? This is a cool zinc-plated pan and I would like to run it, but if I cannot deal with this properly, I'll have to stock with the stock unit I have. Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike C Posted July 20, 2003 Share Posted July 20, 2003 I would take it somewhere that boils out gas tanks. Their chemicals have rust removers as well. This might or might not get rid of the zinc plating... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted July 20, 2003 Share Posted July 20, 2003 Soak it overnight in a mild solution of muriatic acid (swimming pool stuff). When I took my headers to Rewarder, he dumped them in a vat of this stuff and the headers had gotten pretty rusty since I welded them. Don't know if it will strip the coating too....maybe test it on a small piece, like a braket or something.....go to a JY and grab something off a newer car...many of the little brackets are zinc coated. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted July 20, 2003 Share Posted July 20, 2003 SLAG!!!?? What the hell was it welded with? Try some Ospho from your local auto-paint supply store. I have used it on surface rusted parts, then about 5-10 min later, washed it with water and it removed all of the rust. Otherwise, I wouldn't really worry about it much. Remember, your pick-up has a screen. Just run it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted July 20, 2003 Share Posted July 20, 2003 DELETE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted July 21, 2003 Author Share Posted July 21, 2003 Thanks for the replies, guys. I really don't want to boil this thing--it is new and looks purdy, but this crap inside makes me think twice. Both the Ospho and the muratic acid have acidic properties, and both will work I believe---the inside of the pan has no plating to speak of...which means that as soon as I use acid to get this crap out, it will flash rust all over inside. I suppose I could spray it with WD-40 immediately afterwards to keep it to a minimum. Again, thanks for all the info and the ideas!!!!!!!!!! Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zcarnut Posted July 21, 2003 Share Posted July 21, 2003 ...which means that as soon as I use acid to get this crap out, it will flash rust all over inside. I suppose I could spray it with WD-40 immediately afterwards to keep it to a minimum. First rinse out throughly with plenty of water to remove any acid residue. Then you can apply the WD-40. Otherwise it will flash rust even with a coating of WD-40. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted July 21, 2003 Share Posted July 21, 2003 Davy! Just put some oil in the "OIL PAN". I.E., GET IT ON THE MOTOR!!! Then, after that, PUT IT IN THE CAR!!! I know you've got the engine, I've seen pictures(about 2 years ago ). I'd like o hear of you DRIVING your Hybrid some time SOON. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j260z Posted July 21, 2003 Share Posted July 21, 2003 muriatic acid (the old name for hydrocloric acid) will strip the zinc coating off anything faster than you can dip it and take it out even with it diluted! if you are still thinking of using acid i would consider finding a place that will replate the pan. if you really want to get tricky, you can always strip it and then get it coated with dry film at the powder coaters. dry film is really teflon coating but teflon is a registered trademark. the dry film is very durable and because it is no stick the oil will run to the bottom of the pan faster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j260z Posted July 21, 2003 Share Posted July 21, 2003 check out this site http://www.topguncoatings.ca/SolidDryfilm.htm these guys do all of my coating for my car. the other cool thing about this dry film is that it is thin enough that you can coat a whole bolt and nut, threads included, and they will still thread together easily. this means that you no longer need to use anti-sieze compound on them and the bolts still retain their tension!! i also coated my calipers with dry film because 1: it is a thin film which means there is no heat build up on the calipers. normal powder coating or painting, which does look nice, retains the heat and won't let your calipers cool down enough. 2: because it is a no stick surface, i can just hose off my calipers and they are shiny clean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 240hybrid Posted July 22, 2003 Share Posted July 22, 2003 I know of a few solutions that will take care of light rust without the harmful extremities of muriatic acid. Por 15 makes a product called "metal ready" will etch out minor rust and prep the metal for paint. Its a good product. Also Eastwood has a product called "Oxisolve" it does the same thing as the por 15 product, etching rust and preping for paint. Then theres a product you can get at Home Depot called "must for rust". All three of these products do the same job, getting rid of minor surface rust. I would say that the Por 15 product "metal ready" does the best, then the "oxisolve" and the "must for rust" bring up the rear. Also all three of these products are a dilluted solution that contains phosphoric acid, not at wild as the muriatic but it will do the job. Good luck Chase Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted July 23, 2003 Author Share Posted July 23, 2003 Davy! Just put some oil in the "OIL PAN". I.E., GET IT ON THE MOTOR!!! Then, after that, PUT IT IN THE CAR!!! I know you've got the engine, I've seen pictures(about 2 years ago ). I'd like o hear of you DRIVING your Hybrid some time SOON. Hahaha, lol Truly, so would I. Man, life has it's busy times, and this past decade has been that for me, especially with almost 4 kids now... J260Z: Thanks for the good info and the link--gotta check into prices for that kind of thing. It has to be cost effective for me. Chase: I love the Eastwood products, but I may need something a little more aggressive--this is not exactly flash rust, but it is not exactly pitted either. Makes me think. Plus, I have no idea what the black crap is--hard as heck to get off completely. Again, the pan is only plated on the exterior and I plan to keep it that way. Any chamicals won't go on the outside if I can help it. I need to get this thing planted in the car....also, installation of my 'new' Edelbrock heads I will be working on the swap this summer, and all my local HybridZ buddies want to help which I think is cool. Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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