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aluminum vs brass/copper? radiators


peej410

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hey all i did a search about radiators and is seams as if most of you Sbc swap guys are using aluminum radiators, due to my custom frame rails i can just barely fit a 26 x 19 in rad. my question is, it seems as if alot of the aluminum core radiators only have one or two cores, while the factory style copper or brass (not really sure what it is) radiators are 2, 3, and 4 cores. is a 2 core aluminum radiator such as this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2428404970&category=33602 going to cool as well as a 4 core oem copper brass type ? thanks for your time -pete

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Guest greimann

Actually, copper has better thermal conductivity than aluminum. http://www.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_conductivity

The advantage of aluminun radiators with two row cores is that the tubes are 1" or 1.25" wide and have more surface area in contact with the fins. Copper / brass radiators have 4 rows of narrower tubes. The rounded part of the tubes that do not contact the fins do not transfer heat, so a lot of potential cooling area is wasted. Aluminum rads also flow better because of the wider tubes. More flow = better cooling.

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In addition to what has been mentioned, the wall thickness of the tubes in an aluminum radiator can be made thinner than a copper tube due to the higher strength of aluminum.

 

A thinner material allows more heat to pass from the water to the air.

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True - but it also makes it more subject to failure from vibration or corrosion.

The biggest selling feature on the aluminum radiators has been their reduced weight. Improves fuel economy ( I know we all really care about that), Improves accelleration (we definitely care about that) and it also helps reduce PMOI - Polar Moment of Inertia - for you crooked track guys that worry about response when you spin out.

I just had a fourth row added to my stock copper/brass core and, with dual Z-28 fans, it keeps the car cool even on 100° days with the AC on. Besides, I saved a lot more weight with the aluminum block than I could with an aluminum radiator!

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hmmm, well my front end is fairly heavy, after the accident i did quite a bit of over building. im glad this wont be the last Z i ever build.... i work part time at a fabrication shop and right now im still pretty much apprenticing so money is a big issue, what would you guys recommend

??? - pete

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Hi Pete:

Last winter I did a search and found a member in Phoenix who was running with an aluminium Griffin crossflow rad with a Taurus fan. He said it ran with out problems with the air on in heavy traffic. One heck of an endorsement! I put one in front of my V12 with a two speed Volvo fan and have yet to get it over 180 in ninety plus weather. It saved me about six inches of 4 core brass and coolant…. A minor weight savings but something.

http://www.griffinrad.com/start.php

Cheers…:::Glenn

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In my LT1 280ZX I have a CSI electric water pump, 1 speed Ford Taurus electric fan and a Griffin 26x19 2 core aluminum radiator. Now for like the past 2 weeks we have had some 90+ degree days...My car still runs at the 180 degrees that I want it to. I could actually make it run cooler by turning the fan on sooner but 180 degrees is a good temp for me! :D I think with the combination of the aluminum radiator, the taurus(even if it is only the 1 speed fan), and the CSI electric water pump it is perfect for cooling a Z/ZX! :D

 

 

Guy

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hey dot, sick ride how much did you guys pay for the griffin? would the afco be comparable? from my understanding, its less expensive because its brazed not tig welded in a much larger assembly line thus making it cheaper to manufacture.... also, i have a brand new stock replacement waterpump.... but its the long style. id like to run the short style and a single belt setup what are my options as far as low cost/longevity ?

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hmmm well, could you do me a little favor? measure to see if it is indeed exactly 26 inches? because that is all the room i have exactly 26 :) oh and i found the best stuff for absorbing rad vibrations..... its used as the foam rubber weather stripping for the bottom of garage doors. we used it on my buddys 85 mustang GT and it works great.

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Guest Thurem

If these griffin are made the same way as the radiators on motorcycles, I can attest to their durability. I have seen a lot of mangled (as in twisted and bent) radiators on crashed bikes still holding pressure and water. The thing that usually gets them is when a bolt pokes thru or if something rubs on them and wears thru.

Thure

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Guest zbot43

Ok, I have a 1970 240z with a 350 chevrolet 300hp Summit engine with a 700r4. I have had the 26x19 Griffin radiator in this car, with horrible results. I took it out and put a copper brass radiator out of 1970 Chevrolet Nova, which is I believe either a two or three row core. This radiator is working great for me. I swear the griffin flows too well! I had tried all kinds of things, different water pumps, different fans, etc.. What finally fixed all my woes was going back to the copper and brass. I have since taken the aluminum radiator out of my 1970 toyota landcruiser which also has a 350, and put a copper brass out of a 454 chevy suburban, I am about to put it back on the road. I bet it won't get hot anymore. :?:shock:

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