How To Section Struts

[stony]

I applied this process to mate the z31 strut lower half and s30 upper half. What i want to do now is install a more drag specific insert. Im currently using the koni insert AZC sells (very stiff) and i want to install something that will allow for better weight transfer. I also want to section the strut to lower the car but not bottom out the inserts becasue the coilovers are turned down too much.

 

Any suggestions on a good adjustable drag insert?

 

Scottie if you could chim in you told me about one before but my computer has crashed like 3 times since then and i lost all my emails. I'm actually pretty close to doing this now ;>

[Guest zline]

QA1 dampers would be pretty nice

 

http://www.paradiseracing.com

[JMortensen]

Carrera makes strut inserts for Datsuns. You could have them made with whatever damping you want.

[stony]

i guess carrera is now owned by QA1.

 

http://www.qa-one.com/

[Mike kZ]

i guess carrera is now owned by QA1.

 

http://www.qa-one.com/

 

Email or call them to see if they would valve a QA1 12 way into a shotened strut for a Datsun! I would be interested in a pair of fronts like that

[Guest zline]

QA1 will build anything you want!!

[TexasNissanDude]

I am going to bookmark this one for later reference!

[Here comes trouble]

I used a pipe cutter to score a groove line to cut with a metal cutting band saw.The pipe cutter's groove is really easy to follow with a bandsaw in the vertical position, but this method requires an assistant to help hold and square the strut assembly while the tube is cut.(kinda like a monkey fornicating with a football)......A good hacksaw and blade maybe time consuming but worth the effort for a beginner........The pipe cutter by it's cutting pressure tends to press the metal in at the cutline reducing the circumferance which is not good for tight fitting strut inserts . The pipe cutter has a tendency to wander if the cutting wheel is either too tight or loose on the tube while it is turned. Practice is the Key here! Once the pipe cutter groove line goes crooked on the tube....... forget the pipe cutter brcause it becomes a waste of time to get the line straight again....... Try using half inch masking tape to mark the cut line. The good expensive masking tape seems to circle around the tube evenlly for a square cut. You can measure the distance from top of the tube to the edge of the masking tape cut line to check for correct distance.... To weld use a appropriate length of 1 1/2 X1 1/2 angle iron clamped tightly to the tubes to minimize warpage and insure squareness........... I also would insert a 2 foot piece of polished/buffed piece of exhaust pipe into the tube to keep the two piece straight while welding.(It took 2 days to find the right size of exhaust pipe) The reason for the long piece of wxhaust pipe is to give enough room on the exposed part to anchor a pipe wrench to remove the exhaust pipe from the tube when finished welding. Do not weld more than an inch at a time and alternate the welds. Let cool and check for squarenees of the welded tubes with the clamped angle iron and use the pipe wrench to give the exhaust pipe in the tube circular twists to check for squareness. In the archives... I wrote an earlier piece on 280 Z strut shortening and the KYB strut #(Which maybe cross referenced for other strut inserts. for the front. You use the Z front struts on the rear. The old rule measure twice and cut once applies here . I measure about 20 times to cut once.