Zsane Posted December 7, 2003 Share Posted December 7, 2003 Just picked this up at my local Pic-N-Pull for $50. I'll see if I can make it work. Out of a 1987 Supra, 7.5" carrier with 4.10 gears. Any comments? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Maxwell Posted December 7, 2003 Share Posted December 7, 2003 I just got one also. I was planning on fitting it this winter, but I havent had the time... ... Very solid read end. If you get it in, let us know how it went. How are you planning on doing the front and rear diff mounts? I had measured and marked the old rear mount, and I was planning on cutting, and welding in a section that would droped it back some in order to put the diff in the right place. Max Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilRufusKay Posted December 7, 2003 Share Posted December 7, 2003 $50.00 sounds great for an LSD. My buddy drives a SUPRA..pretty slick car. Let us know how much work is involved. Good Luck!! Rufus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZR8ED Posted December 9, 2003 Share Posted December 9, 2003 1982 supra GTS and newer all had LSD's 3.7 ratio. Even the old ones are bullet proof. (There are some pretty mean mkII's running around with mega hp and stock rears. The only prob with the supra diffs, is that the "snout" is shorter than our R200's. I'm sure it can be engineered. Nice bonus, is that you may be able to adapt the supras CV shafts. The car is wider than ours, so they need to be shortend, but who says you can't add on Z outers... kinda make it a custom shaft, but that should not scare anyone on this board too much. hehehe It is definitely an option to the expensive lsds for our cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zsane Posted December 23, 2003 Author Share Posted December 23, 2003 Well here's the general plan for the front, either 1/4" steel or 3/8" T6 aluminum, one u-channel or two angles and a flat bar, will need an access hole below the flange to get to the bolts, may put some slots here and there for weight purposes and a strut running from front to back underneath u-channel, rear mount will be another angle bolted to the top in place of that stock Supra mount, above the diff cover extending past the cover and hanging down to the bar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QWKDTSN Posted December 23, 2003 Share Posted December 23, 2003 Interesting, keep posting your progress, I will be curious to see the results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted December 23, 2003 Share Posted December 23, 2003 Mounting the diff doesn't seem like the biggest obstacle to me... have you come up with something to get the CV's to work for you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted December 24, 2003 Share Posted December 24, 2003 Keep up the brainstorming here 'cause I see some potential for this. It just dawned on me that another benefit of the shorted differential case is the needed increase in the driveshaft length. Even though the horizontal plane of my drivetrain has no angles in it, I wished I could say the same for the vertical plane. Because the propeller shaft is pushed over toward the passenger side by about one inch (And I don't have enought tunnel room to offset the engine and tranny to do the same), the angles on the driveshaft (a short driveshaft) bother me. Lengthing the driveshaft will to some small degree, shorten these angles. Plus, the bracket illustrated above could incorporate some kind of driveshaft safety loop as well. Keep the ideas comming guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted December 25, 2003 Share Posted December 25, 2003 Not too sure about having the (red) bracket underslung rather than on top like the original. May make removal of the tailshaft difficult. And the later anti-sway bars have to fit around there as well? But the concept is great, particularly if you want CV jointed axles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zsane Posted December 25, 2003 Author Share Posted December 25, 2003 At this point it looks like I'll be using two large structural aluminum angles, there are some 3" x 6" x 3/8" chunks at work I can use, very strong stuff T6 used for anchoring custom commercial window frames to high rise buildings, I work for a large Architectural Glaizing contractor so we have lots of large steel and aluminum items as these laying around, as well as the machinery to fabricate it. I'm planning to bolt one angle to each side with the returns facing each other under the diff, both legs will have to be shortened and then I was planning to bolt a flat bar under the angles to tie the two sides together. The front mount will bolt through the plate and angles, another set of angles or a piece of tube could be incorporated between the vertical legs of the angles to act as a safty loop, that would be easy, first things first. The vertical mounting location of the angles will be critical to ensure that the axle flanges and driveshaft flange are in the proper locations or optimum locations. I was thinking of using slots rather than holes for mock up so there will be adjustment available to get the geometry correct, and once the proper locations are determined a final set will be fabricated using holes so that the position of the diff cannot shift. As far as axles are concerned I will find a set off another Supra along with the stub axles and go from there, I will remove the axle flanges from the diff first to see if any possible swaps with those can be done. Right now I want to make sure I can mount the thing in the car, one step at a time, but I will move forward as quickly as possible and post my progress. I was planning on having an access hole or slot in the bottom of the mount directly under the driveshaft flange to aid in installation and removal of the bolts. I understand the need to lift the drive shaft up to the flange after it is slid into the trans. It could be changed to a top mount config. but the fact is that the driveshaft will pass over the front diff crossmember and swaybar in any configuration. Hopefully there will be room to slide the shaft above the diff and then forward into the trans, but I can't tell until the diff is mounted into the car, if room doesn't permit this, it may be possible to unbolt the diff from the mount and lift the nose out of the way for shaft installation. I could mount the angles so the return legs face away from each other and bolt directly to the front diff crossmember, but the crossmember will still have to be dropped for install this way, unless the center is cut out and you have the rear mounted sway bar. Either way I'll make it work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zsane Posted February 7, 2004 Author Share Posted February 7, 2004 Ok, here's what I got so far, just the beginning, so bear with me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted February 7, 2004 Share Posted February 7, 2004 Jeez, I'm not going to go bare with you. But I will bear with you, as I guess most others will too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted February 8, 2004 Share Posted February 8, 2004 1982 supra GTS and newer all had LSD's 3.7 ratio. Even the old ones are bullet proof. (There are some pretty mean mkII's running around with mega hp and stock rears. Earlier MKIII's Turbos' have 3.9's later had 3.7's. I know some N/A's have 4.38's not sure about all of them. Clifton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zsane Posted February 8, 2004 Author Share Posted February 8, 2004 Wow, that was an easy fix, I wish this swap was that easy. Sorry, too much work, not enough sleep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest acdatz Posted February 8, 2004 Share Posted February 8, 2004 If I'm not mistaken, but I believe the 87 Supra rear ends were 8". I think the earlier ones 82-85.5's were the 7.5's. Not that it really matters if you are swapping the whole unit,but it might make a differance if someone was looking for gears or the carriers to swap out. Just my 2 cents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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