LS1 Bolt in Motor and Trans mounts from Johns Cars

[qwik240z]

I spoke to the guys at Johns Cars and they now have the LS1 Motor and Trans mounts ready. Here is the info they sent me:

 

 

LS-1 INFO QUEST 240-260-280 Z

 

 

Rocket fueled zip for your first generation ZCAR, the 240, 260, 280 Z (not ZX). John’s Cars ZCar components matched with the all aluminum GM LS1 V8 and overdrive transmission define AWESOME! This 100% bolt-in kit does not rely on the stock Datsun cross-member motor mount towers alone for strength. There is no welding required or recommended. Everything is totally bolt-in. Cutting holes in the car are not necessary as with other swaps. Suspension modifications are not needed. Details:

 

Stock 77 280Z/L28 W/ LS1 & T56 LS1 W/Roll-bar & strut braces

Total Weight: 2,800 2,830 2,895

Front Only: 1,400 1,400 1,415

Rear Only: 1,400 1,430 1,480

 

Neither braking nor handling are affected due to the minor weight change (30 pounds more on the rear). Fact is that V8 ZCar has a lower center of gravity than the original inline Nissan 6. You will, however, want to upgrade both the braking and suspension if you are planning on “competing†with the car. We don’t offer those items and I don’t have any preferences or suggestions who to use - there are many excellent vendors for you to choose from for those items. Check online Z groups, like http://www.HybridZ.org.

 

I hope you will read this information carefully. There is good info here that should cover 99% of your questions - If it misses one please send an email to zcar@johnscars.com. More than 25 years of V8 conversions have guided not only this project but the information you need to make good decisions. I do conversions in house on local vehicles only, not hot rods - full smog, emission legal in Dallas. You can make an appointment to visit JCI - Monday-Friday 8-6. You may note that I repeat some things - I don’t have an LS-1 kit for the 280ZX (small block kit is available - see the website). I don’t have anything (nada) for a 300ZX. WHY - the cars are different - takes different parts - parts I have not designed. If I do build parts I will send out info to those who send an email, please do not call - I do not have anything to tell you and I can’t design stuff being a parrot on the phone. I don’t need any guinea pigs - I have both 280 and 300ZX cars in the yard that maybe I’ll get to someday, sorry if that does not fit your instant gratification society, the customer is always right and more power to the consumer. My answer for that is I’ll be happy to refer all comers to you as soon as you have your fire breather smoking the skins. Performance on the mule is in the 12s on street tires, so if someone can beat you I’ll wager it is not a daily driver that idles ripple free. There are production line vehicles that are worthy foes - and they are in the 6 figure category, it all depends on how you want to spend it.

 

The LS1 is GM’s state-of-the-art Hi-Po motor, coil-on-plug, fuel injected and fully computer controlled. You’ll even maintain the OBD2 driveline diagnostics. Convert your Z to this technology that GM spent years and hundreds of thousands of dollars to develop for their factory high performance vehicles. Best of all, you don’t have to reinvent the wheel to do it. You will have to “edit†the GM computer to your rear axle ratio, remove the speed limiter, and maybe some horsepower tweaks! ChipsbyAl@aol.com did the ECM for the prototype, I also use and recommend Street & Performance or Howell Engineering.

John’s Cars (JCI) built this LS-1 prototype in 2002 using a 1998 Camaro pullout. Summer of 2003 I took it apart to analyze the effort and the thousands of miles of road and track experience. What did we change? A synchro in 5th gear! JCI is now ready to offer components to you.

 

Building blocks are what you can buy from JCI. This is not a kit and it is not “blacksmith plansâ€. It is a group of critical components, designed to work together, that will allow the experienced do-it-yourselfer to successfully complete this installation. It eliminates “do-oversâ€, second guesses and 50-50 hindsight decisions and; “most of all†the basket case syndrome that befalls the cheapest way. Don’t call to pump us for free info - the answers and information are here on these pages - 25 years of hands on experience designed this V8 installation. I have no desire nor need to explain what is proven works. This same experience is why I am very specific in telling you: If you want to design your wheel be my guest - without my input. You can go online for all the free commiseration you could ever want.

 

The building blocks we offer are as follows:

 

Front mounting set: This is a five piece bolt-in set that properly locates your LS-1 in the ZCAR engine bay on GM mounts with clearances for headers and manual steering rack. You don’t get to guess where to drill the final holes - yes there are parts offered for various cars that have you make the decision and then it becomes your problem. My mounts are 100% bolt-in, painted, and with all the necessary hardware and don’t require (or allow) any guesswork. I provide a manual that details removal of the Z driveline - car prep for the V8 and the install of the components you purchase. I do not provide this information without the purchase of the front mounts. Purchase of the front mounting set is required to be enable you to purchase any of the other components. You can purchase the other components later as your budget dictates. Mounts are on the shelf for immediate shipping. Front mounting set & hardware, plus the paperwork, freight paid - $295.00.

 

Transmission crossmember and rubber mount: The original Z transmission mount will need to trimmed flush so you do have to drill holes for installing the new mount. Available for either the 4l60E or the T56. Crossmember, rubber mount, and hardware, freight paid - $135.00.

 

Driveshaft: A complete, balanced unit with slip yoke, ready to bolt in. This is an all GM driveshaft with full size u-joints at each end, bolts to Z diff, freight paid - $265.00.

 

Speedometer Drive Unit: Converts the electronic output from the GM transmission into a mechanical drive for the Datsun stock speedometer. 3 wire hook-up, made in the USA, new cable included, freight paid - $285.00.

 

Vital Liquids Set: Upper and lower radiator hoses, clamps, adaptors, tap for the Datsun oil pressure sender, plus two water temps (GM FI and Datsun dash gauge). This will save you days of time! Shipped with other components - $85.00.

 

Radiator: We’ll recore your old radiator with a new 4-row super duty high efficiency core. Ship us your unit and we’ll return it prepaid to you ready to install - $275.00 to your door.

 

Headers: (Not available for CA) 4 tube block hugger style – 16 gauge – custom made in the USA specifically for this application. They clear the steering, starter and oil filter and maintain good ground clearance. Includes two oxygen sensor bungs. These headers are not CARB certified so they cannot be sold in California. Freight paid - $385.00.

 

More exhausting details: I modified a set of Sanderson Headers for this car. I didn’t try to stick with the stock GM manifolds and it does not appear that they will work without modification. If you have not seen the stock manifolds pipe flange - one look should explain the interference. Street & Performance also offers a set of universal headers if you don’t want to spend the $385.00 on my custom fit headers. Your muffler man will make the rest of the system for you.

 

AC compressor mount and drive: New aluminum high efficiency compressor, made in Japan with serpentine belt drive. I do not supply or make the hoses - too many variations, but most hydraulic hose or AC shops can make you a set when you drive the car to them. The GM factory AC compressor will not clear my mounts so I designed a custom unit. Package includes all mounting brackets and hardware, freight paid - $450.00.

 

High volume fuel pump: New – mounts in same location as stock 280Z unit, freight paid - $195.00.

 

Tachometer calibration: We will calibrate your analog Z tach to read the revs and keep your interior stock. Cost is 75.00 but if you order all the JCI parts above the tach calibration is your BONUS - no charge. You don’t have to buy headers if you are in California to qualify for Bonus.

 

It is strongly recommended that you find a complete Camaro or Firebird (CFB) donor vehicle. Usually you can buy an entire donor cheaper than the boneyard will charge you for the pullout. You need the engine, transmission, full wiring harness, ECM, accessories and brackets, radiator fans, etc.. Get it all at once and save time and money in the long run. The stock GM alternator is retained rather than the Datsun unit. It would not be up to the task of the fans. I use the stock CFB fans - they directly plug in to the engine wiring harness and therefore are computer controlled - is strongly recommended, very easy to mount and those notes are included with mounts.

 

Transmission choices are the 6-speed (overdriven) T56 manual trans or the computer controlled 4L60E overdrive automatic. Automatics are a slightly easier swap and with the mountains of torque the LS1 generates it makes for a more driveable car. You can “light-em up†whenever you want and the 30% overdrive reduces noise, improves mileage, and lengthens engine life. The ZCAR factory automatic shifter is okay and there are aftermarket units if you prefer. Of note – in this installation the T56 manual install does not require enlarging the transmission tunnel or modifying the shifter hole. I used a factory GM clutch master cylinder.

 

I understand it is best to keep the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) as it reduces spark knock, reduces emissions, and allows the computer to signal more ignition advance which translates into more power. The headers have the required plumbing to retain the EGR. AIR – air induction reaction – is not included with the headers. AIR functions the first minute or so of operation and helps complete combustion and light off the catalytic converters quicker. The LS1 air pump is electric and controlled by the ECM. You will have to verify what is required for local emissions - I can not know what your locale requires, please do not call me.

 

Side notes: These components are for the first generation Zcars only. The first generation is 240 - 260 and 280 Z - not 280ZX. We do not have anything LS-1 for the ZX, we do offer a small block V8 kit for all of the cars before the 300ZX. ZX to LS-1 models may be offered later - send email to zcar@johnscars.com and request ZX info - please do not call, it is a waste of time.

 

These components will allow you to mechanically install the drive train and cooling system in approximately 20 hours. It does not include any super detailing of the engine bay, paint repairs, or electrical connections work. Class takes time - what you see on TV mechanic is not real time.

 

If your Z is rusty, don’t even start. Find another body shell that is rust free. The torque developed by this drive train pushes the limits of the Z unibody even when it is in good condition.

 

The stock Z differential and half-shafts have proven adequate for this application.

 

To get yourself started toward the ride of your dreams fill out the order sheet, sign it, and send it in along with certified funds. Remember, freight costs included within the continental USA – Hawaii and Alaska will be slightly higher due to higher shipping costs. Tax is due on any sale in Texas. Headers can not be sold/shipped to California.

 

If you have questions I did not address here please send an email to zcar@johnscars.com. Thanks for making it to the end - they’ll be seeing your tail lights adios with the JCI LS1 ZCar.

[mas28O]

That is good info, I like the fact that I can buy just the engine mounts and headers. I thought that he would only sale the hole kit. I might use his mounts and headers for my LS1 swap. Does anyone know what size headers they are? 15/8 13/4 ??

[Pop N Wood]

I provide a manual that details removal of the Z driveline - car prep for the V8 and the install of the components you purchase. I do not provide this information without the purchase of the front mounts.

 

Sounds like he is use to dealing with the Z crowd. A bunch of do-it-yourself-cheap-bstrds!

[Dan Juday]

That is good info, I like the fact that I can buy just the engine mounts and headers. I thought that he would only sale the hole kit. I might use his mounts and headers for my LS1 swap. Does anyone know what size headers they are? 15/8 13/4 ??

 

Hey Mike, sounds like we will have to drive to Reno to get the headers. Wonder if he will sell them "for off road use only"?

[mas28O]

Dan I donot know why he would say that he cannot ship the headers. Offroad parts are shipped all of the time to CA. I have a friend in Reno that I could have it mailed to. Dan are you thinking about a LS1?

 

Mike

[Dan Juday]

Dan I do not know why he would say that he cannot ship the headers. Offroad parts are shipped all of the time to CA. I have a friend in Reno that I could have it mailed to.

Mike

 

I was thinking the same thing about finding someone in Reno who could send it along.

 

Dan are you thinking about a LS1?

Mike

 

Mmmmmmmmmmmmm...maybe.

[qwik240z]

Keep in mind they won't sell just the headers. He states that you must buy his mounts and manual in order to be able to purchase any other items for this swap.

[Phantom]

If I remember right the primaries on the headers are 1 1/2" with 2 1/2" collectors.

 

The reason he doesn't sell any other parts unless you buy the engine mounts is because everything is dependent on the engine being in the right location. He doesn't want 100 phone calls about something not fitting because the buyer used his own set of mounts.

 

BTW - the mounts are solid, totally bolt in, and allow you to NOT move the steering gear arm plus keep your AC and heat. These are very thoroughly thought out "building blocks".

If someone buys his stuff and want to PM me with questions or post them on the site I will do what I can to fill in details - except the electrical. I know very little about that but can take some pictures of my car to show how it was done.

 

PS: Hope y'all appreciate the plug I got him to include for this web site.

[mas28O]

Phantom can you find out on the headers about the size. 11/2 primaries might be ok for a stock LS1 but down the road I want to go with ported ls6 heads and a larger cam.

 

Thanks

 

Mike

[thefastestz]

This has me even thinking of an LS1 swap.

So if you did everything yourself you could complete an LS1 swap between 5-6k???? That isn't bad cosidering the type of streetable performance gained. i always thought that swaps like this would end up in the 10k+ range.

[qwik240z]

This has me even thinking of an LS1 swap.

So if you did everything yourself you could complete an LS1 swap between 5-6k???? That isn't bad cosidering the type of streetable performance gained. i always thought that swaps like this would end up in the 10k+ range.

 

I don't think you can do a clean swap for 5-6 K. Figure $3500-$4500 for the motor, trans, computer, wiring harness, accessories,driveshaft, etc. Another $1500 for the engine mount kit, trans mount, headers, tach recalibration, speedo drive signal converter, etc. next you need a cooling system, a fuel system, an exhaust system, upgrade the brakes, etc. etc.

 

More like $10k if you want it clean and done right!

[jeromio]

Keep in mind that speedo thing-a-ma-bob is more expensive than a brand new electronic speedo.

 

Also, I see no mention of a sump for the fuel tank which I would recommend. Plus, you should factor in fuel lines and a regulator (unless he includes that - not mentioned).

 

Also, those shorty headers probably do not perform better than the regular exhaust manifolds. The only modification is to lop off the stock flanges which any exhaust shop could do along with the rest of the exhaust system. Obviously the headers will look much better though and it is pretty cool that such a specific piece is even available.

 

I think buying an aftermarket Alum. radiator is a better idea than recoring the stocker. Cheaper too.

 

Not tryna be negative, just informative.

 

Although, this does almost make me consider selling crossmember/mount kits. Almost. Not quite.

[Dan Juday]

Hey Jeromio, is it posible to do the LS1 swap without reprogramming the PCM?

[jeromio]

Possible, but very much not recommended. You can get it editted for $250-$300. The various magical black boxes you would need to buy or create would eat up way more than that investment.

 

If you go to ls1tech.com or speartech.com you can find a list of the swap issues that the typical "swap edit" addresses.

[mas28O]

The headers are too small for the LS1, I found out today that they are only 1.5". I spoke to Sanderson headers today and they have the block hugger in 1 5/8 and 1 3/4. I will try these if they do not fit then I will just take my car to sanderson and have them make me a set. It seems like a waist to put in such a nice motor and then kill some of the power.

[Guest shane280z]

Hey. I went to Johnscar.Com web site and read the info. Okay. I even sent a emaili to Johnscars asking to email me more information then what the Johnscar web site presents. Okay. Now my question : Has ANYONE purchased Johnscars Z conversion kit (s) and if so were you satisified with the quality and results and documentation. Please email me at ShaneFanon@Hotmail.Com and let me know. Currently I am looking for a supplyier of V-8 basic equipment other then Motorsports that could supply me with workable parts that do what is claimed and keep me from re-inventing the wheel. If you have used Johnscars Z kit then let me know if your experiences were good, bad, oh hum, or whatever. Thanks. shane-

[DavyZ]

Shane, if you are looking for a standard (read: non-LS1) Chevy V8 conversion, I'd contact JTR and get their book and parts (or have them made). Otherwise, John is the only kit going for the LS1.

 

Davy

[Dan Juday]

Did you get prices for the Sanderson blockhuggers? And do they come ceramic coated? John says his custom ones come set up for the EGR. What do you think that means? And he didn't say if for $385 they come coated or not. Maybe I should e-mail him, hey?

[danc]

I seriously looked into John's Cars before I bought the MSA mounts for my 280ZX in 2001. I talked to John a couple of times, and during the conversation he admitted that "Z" conversions were really not his preimary business; Jag conversions were. I asked to stop by during a planned visit to my brother's in Austin, but he discouraged me from doing that. I later found out from someone on this forum who had visited that he had an old shit-bob Z sitting out in the back that he had done many years prior. He was nice enough to talk to, but his primary interest was selling me everything for what I remember being around $700-$800. My final impression was he was just tring to make a buck, didn't have a lot of substance behind his first pitch, and couldn't answer some pretty basic questions. There are some guys on the forum who have purchased his "kit" and you should be able to get some feedback thru the search medium. Having said all that, the LS-1 "kit" has to be new, and perhaps he realizes there is a market out there and has changed his philisophy a bit. That would be great since he is not a dumb guy. Also don't know if he still sells the "tell me show me" $20. pre-cursor, but if he hasn't substantially changed that, it was total dog-shit. I threw mine away.. Good luck...

[Pop N Wood]

If someone buys his stuff and want to PM me with questions or post them on the site I will do what I can to fill in details - except the electrical.

 

Correct me if I am wrong, but JC used Phantom's car to develop the kit. Check out the links in his signature line. Beautiful car. Sounds like everything was done right.