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Just wanted to share, got my car back from a dyno tune


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and despite about 40 dollars of unnecessary charges on the bill, i'm very happy! The car put down 251hp at 5000 rpm and 309lb/ft at 3700. Check out the dyno sheet in my personal gallery. I'm impressed with how smoooooooooth and flat the curves are. It is awesome to drive now - no hesitation when getting on the gas, so much smoother when tipping into the throttle. It doesn't require a delicate touch to drive anymore! First and second gear wheelspin on command. 8)

 

Now, to make it run cooler... :shock:

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let's see what i can remember. Around 9.5 compression, forged pistons, 1.5 roller rockers, cam, valve springs... RPM Air-gap manifold, Holley 650dp carb... Plain jane HEI with a coil (think I'm going to get some MSD soon)... T5 tranny with a 3.90 rear end. Ceramic block huggers to a full dual 2.5in exhaust with an X-pipe and MAC mufflers. K&N and all that. It doesn't have a lot of money in it, just a basic rebuilt motor with some bolt ons. I was mentally hoping for bigger numbers but driving the car makes me forget about all that, it's just too much fun as it is. 8)

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Thanks, Tim!! Yours has come a long way too, WAY farther and more quickly than mine! There was a while (when you saw the car) that I worked on it like a maniac. The past year and a half or so, I've barely touched the thing, so whatever I do now is very little and far between. It's been driving for a year but I've barely done anything to make it "a real car". I'd love to see your beast! Unfortunately, I don't think I'll be able to make the MSA show this year (again) as I'll be in Coast Guard boot camp at the time! :shock: But I look forward to seeing you and some of the other Cali guys at some point in the future. :D

 

Len, that's right, I love the car, I can't imagine ever giving it up. :D Though I wouldn't mind a turbo car like yours sometime.. hmm :twisted:

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looking at that dyno graph its very obvious that the engine stops efficiently breathing (filling the cylinders effectively )at about 4000RPM

 

looking at the info you gave

 

 

"Around 9.5 compression, forged pistons, 1.5 roller rockers, cam, valve springs... RPM Air-gap manifold, Holley 650dp carb... Plain jane HEI with a coil (think I'm going to get some MSD soon)... T5 tranny with a 3.90 rear end. Ceramic block huggers to a full dual 2.5in exhaust with an X-pipe and MAC mufflers. K&N and all that. "

 

its apparent that while your engine has a good start,that you could benefit from a cam swap at the minimum and better cylinder heads if the budget allows.

 

a cam like this MINIMUM (my choice for your combo here)

 

http://dab7.cranecams.com/SpecCard/DisplayCatalogCard.asp?PN=114142&B1=Display+Card

 

or MAXIMUM (if you enjoy that lumpy idle sound and don,t mind a noticable loss in low rpm torque for a slight gain in upper rpm power)

like this

 

http://dab7.cranecams.com/SpecCard/DisplayCatalogCard.asp?PN=114822&B1=Display+Card

either cam should give a noticable boost in hp/ (about 25 minimum)add the heads also and you should reasonably expect well over 60 more total rear wheel hp , now that should boost your engine from about 250 to about 310 hp plus, a 20% increase

 

should significantly increase your rear wheel hp ESPECIALLY if matched to better flowing cylinder heads like these

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=TFS%2D30400001

 

As Cast CNC Chamber Option

0.100 50.6 57.9 64.2 55.9

0.200 135.8 98.3 138.5 105.2

0.300 191.0 136.4 197.7 145.5

0.400 229.7 162.9 237.1 170.7

0.500 253.1 176.9 256.8 186.3

0.600

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Nice job and thanks for sharing. All hotrodders love to hear dyno stories.

 

A smooth idle with tons of torque and a 5 spd is a fun Z to drive. The way it is now, you should be able to run low 13's at 106 mph.

 

FYI, A mild cam (around 265 to 270 degrees) with a decent set of aftermarket heads (200 cc dart iron eagles with 64 cc combustion chamber, $999.00) and 12.7's at 112 mph are obtainable without losing streetablity.

 

A Black Magic fan and a stock GM cossflow radiator will keep your engine cool (as recommended by JTR manual).

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Thanks Grumpy, I'll put that stuff in the file... No not the circular one :D

 

Yes, if I ever do get a need for more speed, I'll be looking into heads first as the heads on my motor are nothing special. Do you think it would be a worthwhile investment to buy the MSD 6AL kit from Summit (with Blaster 2 coil and all that for stock HEI ignition) right now? 250 bucks... Or should I wait until after other modifications?

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Guest woodyhooten
A Black Magic fan and a stock GM cossflow radiator will keep your engine cool (as recommended by JTR manual).

FYI: JTR doesn't recommend the Black Magic fan, they are more partial to the 2-spd fan from the Ford Taurus. It draws more air in the second gear and is much cheaper.

 

Dyno charts look nice. Was there something wrong before? Kinda sounded like you had been having problems and you got them fixed. Interested to know what they were, I'm pretty close to initial startup myself. Just those last few accessories...

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FWIW, JTR Doesn't necessarely make the best of recommendations in a couple of areas in the book. Overall they did an excellent job on the mounts, and with the wiring. However, I'm not 100% with them on the cooling issue OR the trans section, specifically the T56 Data.

 

Bottom line is to use it as a reference guide only and to go from there...

 

My cooling solution didn't involve their recommendation. I used the Edelbrock aluminum water pump, but used a Griffin Radiator and an Allstar electric fan on an adjustable relay as my final solution. I will be tilting the radiator forward 40 degrees (From vertical) at the top of my new design and will still use the same electric fan. Before, I used a flex fan and the fiberglass fan shroud from the MSA kit and that worked marginally well. It will most likely be trial and error for you to get the proper cooling... Biggest headache I had was with starter heat soak... That issue was dealt with by getting the relay OUT of the engine bay!

 

Mike :D

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"Do you think it would be a worthwhile investment to buy the MSD 6AL kit from Summit (with Blaster 2 coil and all that for stock HEI ignition) right now? 250 bucks"

 

 

the MSD 6AL kit works very well,it tends to make the engine run smoother (especially between 450rpm-6500rpm and at idle) and pass emmissions easier, but dont look for a noticable change in hp unless your engines current ignition is faulty, would I advise buying it? well I would, but then I already run an MSD that Im very happy with on my corvette, so Im slightly bias toword that ignition system

yet let me repeat, the ignition is not going to produce a noticable power increase. but it is likely to help maintain what you do build

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Thanks guys... Rotorbust I live in Pacific Beach and work in Miramar... Grumpy, thanks for the opinions... you still the man :D

 

Woodyhooten, I was having some problems before. Everything came together smoothly and it started and ran but I just didn't want to tune everything myself. Ignition timing, advance, jets... it seems simple but all those millions of adjustments would just strain me. I tried a couple of different jets with meager success so I knew I would have to tune the ignition and I thought what the hell, might as well let somebody who knows tune it and get some dyno runs in at the same time. Before the tune the car ran great, idled fine and pulled hard, but I had to tip into the gas and ease it up to WOT... A quick, deep stab and the ignition couldn't cope with the secondaries and it would hesitate and backfire.

 

Driving the car to work tomorrow... I can't wait :D

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I may have giving "out dated" information. I haven't seen the latest JTR publication. However, my 1990 addition of Datsun Z V-8 Conversion Manual by JTR recommends using a GM radiator (part number 3054101) and a Black Magic fan (model 150) on page 7 in the cooling section. I have that same set up on my V8 Z and the combo keeps my car cool even in South Texas heat.

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