Lo-tech V8 question

[geotek]

I like lo-tech. I want a street-friendly Chevy V8 for a 240Z (yet to be bought) that doesn't need computers or "technicians". I just want some good kick-you-in-the-ass low-end torque and a solid forgiving manual transmission. I want to start with the engine rebuild. I don't want to get too radical, I'm not looking for a 1/4 miler, just something that will power me soundly out of a corner and streak me on a straightaway. Is that asking too much?

What years should I be looking for? Is there anything I should be avoiding? I am going to be searching North Texas junkyards for an engine, where can I find the transmission? Is there a good combo that I should be looking for up-front? I am guessing that I want about 300hp with some good torque. I understand that I need to find the JTR book, and a quality 240Z body. Yes, I will be making suspension, braking and body modifications, just to keep everything balanced. What common pitfalls should I avoid early on? And yes, price IS a consideration. I don't want to put $20,000 in a fun, daily driver!

[MYRON]

Any Z car that has a straight body and very

limited rust would be great. As for the engine/tranny any carburated 350 long block would be ok. Maybe something out of early-

mid 80's era truck. You need to decide

if you want an overdrive transmission also. TH350's are easier to set up than a 700r4 or a 200r4 but you dont get overdrive with the TH350. Your posibilities are endless. Let

the scrounging commence!.....

[Guest Frank280z]

You don't have to spend a whole lot a dough to have a quick Z. Dropping a mild V8 in will definitely make it move. Start with the JTR book. lol. You have all of the tech support you need at this site. Frank

 

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Build it. Drive it. Improve it.

[Guest Anonymous]

Geotek,

Where in north Texas? I'm in Plano near Dallas.

G.

[pparaska]

If you want the car to handle my advice is to NOT consider the John's Car's conversion, nor the Hooker engine/transmount/headers for the Z.

 

These kits put the engine in the old "Scarab" position. It's harder to get the car to handle as well with that engine placement than the setback placement that the Jags That Run and MotorSport Auto kits do. It can mean the difference of 4%-5% of the weight being on the front wheels versus the rear. Plus the engine is mounted too high to get a tall air cleaner on it if you use a carb and a high-ish rise manifold.

 

This isn't meant to be a slam to anyone that has that type of conversion, but an bit of info to help V8 Z swap neophytes make a decision. Much of the bad rap the V8Z got in years past was because of the degradation of the handling due to the V8 placement with the old Scarab-type kit/conversion, and the John's Cars and Hooker kits that use the same basic engine placement.

 

If you are drag racing, I don't know if it makes much difference.

 

I believe there is someone one this board that has had both engine placements, and could add some bac-to-back data on this topic.

 

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Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - pparaska@home.com">pparaska@home.com -

[BLKMGK]

First - what's your budget? I'm trying to do a fairly simple swap myself but it's ballooning

 

Consider the GM crate motors first of all. The ZZ4 is pretty nice and makes awesome power, there's a more radical one too that's making 385hp. Last but not least there are several low HP 350's that would work fine and are cheaper - well worth considering.

 

As for a trans - I really liek the T56 idea and it's what I'm going for. It should be ROCK solid and take whatever beating I hand it. However it's costly and heavy - if you stick to a low HP motor a T5 is a better choice. T5s all but fall out of trees around here and are fine behind a lower HP motor.

 

Read the JTR book, it's got plenty of info on this kind of decision (IMO) and should be your first purchase.

[Guest Jason]

I've found a lot of good deals for engines in want ads. Someone was selling their Monte Carlo 305 for all of $200 earlier. Only 170hp though and I didn't think it would be a signifigant upgrade from the stock ZX engine. I am under the impression most V8's from the mid 70's until late 80's suffered from emissions and thus weren't very powerful.

ITs not low-tech, but junkyards sell their 90's LT1's/6 speed drivetrains for $2500 around here. This combo is close to 300hp, reliable, and gets good gas mileage. The aluminum cylinder heads are cooled before the block, allowing you to run higher compression ratios than earlier SBC's. If you don't like FI, maybe (i'm don't really now) you could find or adapt a carburated manifold for the LT1.

[Michael]

I've found that if you have significant hot rodding and mechanical experience, you develop a "nose" for low-tech, low-cost, yet perfectly sound solutions. But lacking that experience, one tends to saddle himself with unnecessarily "high tech" methods. Part of the learning curve, I suppose.

 

For a 300hp V8 Z, my opinion is that the only unavoidable "high tech" part is the manual transmission. Detriot products rarely came with stick shifts - especially the high-powered ones. The typical stick shift transmission (T5) is generally regarded as being too weak for 300 hp. The Muncie 4-speed is OEM, but those are rare, expensive, have an awful selection of gear ratios, and are probably notchy as well. Aftermarket choices - T56, Tremec, and Richmond gear - all involve some custom work, especially with clutch and bellhousing.

 

Perhaps 300 hp is a "borderline case"; it might be better to go with, say, 250 hp (use a T5, don't worry about roll cages or subframe connectors, etc.), or go "all the way" for a 400+ hp street/strip car.

 

Sometimes I really envy the muscle car guys. Their projects seem to be so off-the-shelf, so simple to assemble. The aftermarket industry offers trememdous support for these vehicles. But a V8 Datsun has a way of snowballing into an exotic custom creation, even with the most sober and "basic" intentions. It's a great engineering adventure, and surely gives the owner/builded more satisfaction than hopping up his Camaro or Chevelle, but sometimes "low tech" ends up feeling like a too-good-to-be-true fantasy.

[John Scott]

I think the transmission of choice for a mid hp Z is the aftermarket T56 (400 ft/lb). Its about as straight forward as a T5 in installation. A little shorter drive line. 2 wires for reverse lock out. Better in some ways, it goes in w/o the weird offset. Same clutch, slave, bell. Big drawback is its price. If your car has a bad habit of eating T5s, it might be worth the cost. My exuberent friend with his stock 92(?) TA w/wimpy 305 blew his WCT5 on the first day. The T5 doesn't like drag race type driving.

JS

[Guest Anonymous]

An engine option that is cheap and often overlooked but can make good gains with the application of a few key components is the Goodwrench Motor LM1. Check this link:

http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?action=prod_detail&catid=128&pid=110

 

You'll note its about 250 HP and has 304 ft/lbs of torque. Thats with a rather anemic cam and they used a stock manifold and Qjet. Adding headers (pretty much have to with the Z swap anyway), a performance cam (which would void the 3yr 50,000 warranty but not many HP motors come with a warranty anyway) and a nice Holley, or the carb of your choice gives you a solid 275 hp or more depending on the cam (its a low compression engine 8.5 to 1, but hey with todays gas prices buying regular or mid octane would'nt be so bad).

Obviously if running the strip in the 11 or 10's is your thing then this ain't it, but for getting the groceries in a hurry it might be for some.

 

Lone

[BLKMGK]

I'm pretty surte the LT1 CAN be run with a carb so don't count it out. As for the T5 - mine lived behind a ton of torque and 450horses for nearly two years. It's death was the result of showing off and beating it really hard ONCE. It survived the dragstrip several times but not an hour+ of beating on it. That was a stock '88 Ford T5 FWIW. In our lighter cars I'd think it would last fine behind 300HP but I'd still prefer the T56 (shrug). Consider the T5 if cost is an issue - you can buy several for one T56 (sigh).

 

The GM crate motors are decent. Some are slightly higher HP than the one pointed out I think but aren't too bad. Cast pistons kind of turn me off though. Try to pick one with Hyper's and Vortec heads. If budget allows the ZZ4 ROX and comes with most everything you need 'cept a carb and headers. It's got aluminum heads for weight and a roller valvetrain so while it's a bit more it's a good deal.

[geotek]

in Granbury, about 35 miles SW of Fort Worth.

 

 

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Originally posted by Galando:

Geotek,

Where in north Texas? I'm in Plano near Dallas.

G.

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