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how much would putting a 350 in a 1979 280zx cost me?


Guest shattyfatmas

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Guest shattyfatmas

im looking for 250 rwhp @ wheels or better, and ive found a worthy car for 700 bucks. how much would i need to spend to have a decent 350 in there making said amount of power?

 

im new here so if im stuip and missed somehting, dont hesitate to pull my head out of my ass for me and direct me to where i need to go.

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I'll leave the configuration of your anatomy up to you....but use the search function (look near the top of the page).....all your questions will have answers there.....

 

BTW....Welcome

 

Tim

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Guest CarSic

I tired the seach but came up short. Can you give us a clue what keyword would pull up that info?

 

Thank you. RS

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If you want to know how much it's going to cost, you have to tell us how many man hours you are willing to put into it. The more you plan, research, and use the search function the less you will spend. If you do little of the things above you will spend 2x, 10x, even maybe 20x the $$$. The cheapest conversions done on this board are done by bargain hunting gear heads. People that have search ebay, auto classified, and walked endless miles of salvage yards to find that one perfect part. Some of them have even had the privilege of just stumbling over that perfect donor car are their way home from work, or found a already converted car for $2,200 in Peddlers Post. My personal advise is save all your reseats and NEVER total them up, and never let the woman find that folder.

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One thing to consider when searching: The "search" button on the introductory page does very little. Once you're into the forums, you can get a more detailed search. "chevy 350 cost" would probably pull up a hundred different results, only about ten percent of which will be useful to you.

 

Oh, the answer to your question is, budget an absolute minimum of $2,000, going up from there.

 

Good luck!

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The guys who do manage the swap for $2000 (that figure strikes me as unbelievably low, but let’s accept it for the sake of the discussion) are veteran mechanics who have owned Datsuns for many years, know what to spot in a used car that’s for sale, know how to distinguish a solid engine from a blown engine 99% of the time, already have all of the tools that they need for the swap, and will fabricate nearly every part needed for the conversion. They’re also lucky; skill and patience alone are NOT sufficient to get the absolute best deals.

 

A more realistic figure for cost, if you already have a “rust-free†car, do nothing to modify the suspension and only replace those components necessary to install and safely fit with the engine – is on the order of $2K PLUS the engine and transmission. A typical car with moderate rust, rotted bushings in the suspension, questionable brakes, inadequate wheels and tires… and an amateur mechanic who still needs to buy tools such as MIG welder, drill press, torque wrench,… figure about $6K, not counting the car. If you make mistakes, such as screw up an engine build and cause internal engine damage – add several thousand dollars for each such mistake. In fact, it’s the big mistakes and the midcourse revisions that really drive up the cost.

 

There are cars on this site that are all-around competent vehicles – attractive, well-built hot rods which run in the high-12’s – and cost the owners $30K+ to build. That’s with the owner doing most of the work. And there are guys who have spent $10K, maybe $20K – whose car STILL doesn’t run, and won’t run for years – never mind paint jobs or functioning air conditioning or any of those frills.

 

Bottom line: if you need to ask “How much?â€, you probably can’t afford it.

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Very lucid post, Michael!! And very true!!!

 

I've probably got $15-$20 grand in my car and I've done EVERYTHING myself!! I have all the tools, and the know-how..... I got absolute deals on just about everything....esp. the LT1/T56, which I bought for less than most pay for just the T56.

 

As has been stated many many times....it's the small items that kill you....the stuff in the $10 TO $100 range. The big stuff is the cheap stuff!!

 

Tim

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You guys are mixing apples and oranges. What does fixing rust have to do with a V8 conversion? That is something you want to do anyway, new engine or not. I know the torque of a V8 adds more stress making a solid body more important, but he guy was only asking for 250 ponies.

 

The big thing that kills people cost wise is the "while I'm at it" syndrome. Bigger brakes, racing suspension, fuel injection, show car paint. All nice stuff but all unrelated to a V8 conversion. Some people already have all that on their in line Z's. Hell, some guys buy a house with a bigger garage to work on their cars. Does that mean you need to throw in the price of the house as part of the conversion?

 

If you do like JTR said and get a mid 80's Camaro, V8 Caprice or Roadmaster and just swap the engine and stock tranny, then $1500, while probably not very common, is not that unbelievable. Maybe $2000 accounting for inflation since the JTR book was first written.

 

But, like the guys are saying, costs have a way of creeping up if you don't establish a plan and stick to it.

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You guys are mixing apples and oranges. ... The big thing that kills people cost wise is the "while I'm at it" syndrome.

 

Exactly. My entire car, including the paint and V8 conversion, has receipts totalling somewhere between $2,200 and $2,400, and I'm hardly a seasoned hot-rodder. I don't have 13" disks on all four corners, fancy bodywork, racing seats, roll cage, LSD, etc. I'm sure some folks think my methodology is slipshod because I don't insist on having THE BEST when something a few grades lower will reliably and safely do the job. I'm not building a dedicated track car or one designed for top speed runs, and it doesn't sound like Shatty's looking for that, either.

 

Just my .02, I could be wrong.

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While you guys have a point, in reality it hardly works that way!

 

Sure you could do the conversion with just teh basic drop in V8 and go, but the car would be a POS.....spongy suspension, brakes that are incapable of the speed produced etc etc.......it's the journey, not the destination......I mean how many guys, of all the guys who have, or are doing, conversions are doing the basic conversion? Not many, because to be honest, without teh supporting work, it's somewhat pointless....

 

Tim

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If you stuck to your original goals, 2000 -2500 dollars might be feasible.

 

But, take my case. I bought a nice, complete, running, V8 Z from another board member for $6500. Good motor, 700r4, coilovers, decent paint and interior. All you need, right?

 

But, while I'm at it......Freshen motor. Cam. MSD. Wheels. Tires. Aluminum radiator. Quaife diff. Tremec TKO. Lightweight clutch and aluminum flywheel. Rear discs. More tires. Roll bar. 5 point belts. Pro 5.0 shifter. Air dam. Brake ducts. Freshen motor. New heads. S&S headers. Ceramic coat headers. More tires.......

 

Last time I added it up, it was approaching 20K, and climbing.

 

John

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You guys are dancing around the correct answer' date=' but I haven't seen anyone come out and say it yet.

 

Putting a 350 in a z car will cost every spare cent you have for as long as you own the car. ;)[/quote']

Yea that sums it up.

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Guest shattyfatmas

thanks for all your help everybody. im also looking into FI although here is not the place to mention it. the thing that bothers me about a big V8 is the suspension handling compromise. as far as i know, a turboed engine is lighter then a small block V8.

 

anyway, thanks for your time.

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