innerware Posted May 6, 2004 Share Posted May 6, 2004 Hi guys, So I want to start some work on the car and that will intail sanding and priming. I will be years away from a quality paint job. My question is, what kind of rattle can primer is the best to use as I work? I will want grey in color and will be doing things slowly. This is my daily driver and my car gets a lot of dew on it in the morning. Are rattle can primers good enough to seal out moisture? Thanks all again, Kyle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted May 7, 2004 Share Posted May 7, 2004 Primer, by default and regardless of brand, it not water proof and actually will absorb moisture, unless you get a catalyzed primer ($$$).... Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 400HP280z Posted May 7, 2004 Share Posted May 7, 2004 ALSO any can primer or spray paint must be stripper completely before you do your REAL paintjob. it will cause the professional paint job to peel, not cure right and give you tons of headaches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 7, 2004 Share Posted May 7, 2004 So what's the solution? Getting ready to stitch weld the rear subframe and living in Seattle makes me interested... Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 400HP280z Posted May 7, 2004 Share Posted May 7, 2004 what are your plans for your subframes? a good spraycan paint with a hard finish is fine. even if you powercoat your SFC later you will need to have them sandblasted first. its all about price. a whole car is way more money to strip than a few suspension parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
innerware Posted May 7, 2004 Author Share Posted May 7, 2004 So what do you guys recomend if you were to do things bit by bit and didn't have a place to professionaly spray? Do I just wait the next few years untill I have a house and can do it right? There must be an answer. Something in the middle aye? What is the purpose of rattle can primer then? I do unserstand what you are saying I jsut didn't like the answer. I don't mind waithing though. THanks all, Kyle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 400HP280z Posted May 7, 2004 Share Posted May 7, 2004 all the extra parts on my car are fiberglass and wont rust. yes mt car is 4 different colors but oh well. i am spraying my car this weekend...satin black. i want a lowkey sleeper color and well i will see how well it holds up in the AZ sun. i use the paint booth on base so i don't really have an answer for you. as long as you prep your car correctly before you spray it professionaly then go for it and use a can primer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted May 7, 2004 Share Posted May 7, 2004 I've read a lot of good things about Zero Rust - a DTM primer/topcoat. Available in Gal/Qt/Spray can. Apparently, after waiting a month to fully cure, there are probably no issues with scuffing/priming/sanding/blocking and topcoating. Look up: http://www.autobodystore.com/cgi-bin/bbs2/webbbs_config.pl?noframes;read=2046 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metallicar Posted May 7, 2004 Share Posted May 7, 2004 You can get decent two part primer and roll it on. It will required a little more sanding when readying for the finish, but so what. You can use those high density rollers found at Home Depot. I also discovered (research prompted by 400HP280z's remarks about Rustoluem), that Rustoluem has an Industrial Line of Equipment Paint. Found it online at the http://WWW.Rustoleum.com . They have a Urethane line called 9400 System. Offered is an additive, 9404 Leveling additive for airless or roll on applications. They also recommend Rustoleum HS9381 Epoxy primer, under their 9400 system. Epoxy primer will seal out moisture, so it is a good choice as as fix and drive as you go project car. http://WWW.Grainger.Com has this stuff in thier catalog. I am sorry that I did not bookmark the catalog pages. Paint And Activator 1 gallon 5H958 Black 5H951 Activator Grainger Item: 7H607 Price (ea) : $168.50 The epoxy primer system is: Grainger Item: 7H602 Price (ea) : $74.35. The roll-on leveling add is: Leveling Additive 4oz Leveling Additive for 9400 Polyurethane Paint, 4 ounce Grainger Item: 5H953 Price (ea) : $5.47 They also have a clear coat kit. If they put this stuff on heavy equipment, certainly it should hold up for a rolling project car. I assume (oh boy) that one could wet sand the rolled on color finish, is this right? Anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
innerware Posted May 7, 2004 Author Share Posted May 7, 2004 Awesome input. Thanks all. I guess there is a way I can use two part epoxy primer. It would mean running a really long extension cord and using a not so big compressor. But for small areas it could work. What are the two part epoxies that people recomend for priming? I've done lots of painting before just not on cars (hvlp and bottom feed) Does anyone recomend a good book? Thanks again, the rustoleum sound interseting though, Kyle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gramercyjam Posted May 7, 2004 Share Posted May 7, 2004 I just sprayed on some 2 part Dupont epoxy primer sealer last night (interior and engine bay took a quart of paint). It was the first time I used a 2 part paint and expected it to be a huge PITA. But it wasn't. It went on smooth, covered great, dried to the touch very quickly, easy to clean up, and has a very appealing semi gloss finish. Painting is now one of my favorite things to do! It was a little expensive though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 305240 Posted May 7, 2004 Share Posted May 7, 2004 If you still want to go with spray cans, use a brown/red primer say from wal-mart or someplace. Then spray it with a laquer spray can. This will seal is so moisture won't get to it. As mentioned in previous posts, primer is like a sponge. It will absorb moisture and rust. Here is an old school tip. When you have a bare metal spot you want to pirmer or put bondo on, get out your trusty little propane torch. Flash the bare metal with the flame. You will see the moisture run ahead of the flame. Then hit it with your primer or bondo. I've never had rust appear months later under bondo or primer by using this method. Then, when you are ready to do the paint job, the laquer should be easy to sand off for real primer and paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
innerware Posted May 7, 2004 Author Share Posted May 7, 2004 Thanks again. Just a few more questions. When doing baody work what do you all use as a reveal coat of paint when sanding and contouring? I most likely will not be going down to bare metal but it can happen. Por-15 is what I think I might use if that happens and then prime over it to uv seal it. I have lots of little dings and such I want to fix. Plus I will be left with holes after I change my sise view mirror to the flush one msa now sells again. Does POR-15 sound ok? At least I can brush it on. Thanks, Kyle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
innerware Posted May 7, 2004 Author Share Posted May 7, 2004 Thanks again. Just a few more questions. When doing baody work what do you all use as a reveal coat of paint when sanding and contouring? I most likely will not be going down to bare metal but it can happen. Por-15 is what I think I might use if that happens and then prime over it to uv seal it. I have lots of little dings and such I want to fix. Plus I will be left with holes after I change my sise view mirror to the flush one msa now sells again. Does POR-15 sound ok? At least I can brush it on. Thanks, Kyle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 400HP280z Posted May 7, 2004 Share Posted May 7, 2004 yes i always use a light mist of paint(any color opposite of what you are working on) to find all of the waves and flaws in the body. you don't want to paint it solid just mist it lighty and you will see the spots that need more attention. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
innerware Posted May 8, 2004 Author Share Posted May 8, 2004 O.k. so I readup on Zero-Rust and have a few questions. It says that it cures in 2 weeks time. So does that mean no sanding or driving the car until then. Too bad por15 doesn't come in a spray can. Anyway the product does seem good. Thanks again for the continued info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 400HP280z Posted May 8, 2004 Share Posted May 8, 2004 the cure time is the amount of time it takes for the paint to fully DRY basically. even though it may seem dry to the touch, the chemical drying or CURING isn't complete yet. once you get your REAL paint job you will have to wait about 3 months to wax your car so the paint can cure first. the wax will prevent the oxygen from getting to the surface of the paint and the chemicals from doing their thing. when you mix paint you add a catalyst, which speeds up the process of adding air to make the paint hard and dry. wiht out the catalyst the paint would be wet and tacky for months maybe even never dry. so yes you can sand the surface and drive it just no waxing or heavy washing. when you aren't driving it park in the sun. i have painted before. here is my camaro. first car i EVER PAINTED http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=257565 i WISH i would have listened more in chemistry class...lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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