Jump to content
HybridZ

Subframe connectors


Recommended Posts

Can someone please explain, or show a picture of the subframe connectors on a 280Z. I have searched and seen the posts and pictures of the main rails, but can find no exacting detail on the subframe connectors.

 

The reason I am asking is because of the planned LS1 swap. I have planned on a 6 point roll bar and front and rear tower connectors. From what I understand a subframe connector adds to the stiffness. I can cut and weld ok so do it yourself is not a problem, just have to know what to do.

 

Thanks for any help,

Dale

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I posted some fairly detailed pics about 6-8 months ago, search my posts and go back a couple of pages. I cut my floors out due to rust and used the top of the frame rail as part of the floor. Then I cut the sheet to fill in the areas and seam welded it all in, floors are STURDY!

 

Also you should check out pete paraska's home page, I used his blueprint dwg's for reference. They are simple to build if you have the right tools and will cost you about $1-200 depending on what you have to pay for steel now. I put my foorpans and a set of these connectors for about 40 bucks, but that was WAY before the steel market went all freaky.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok' date=' so in the picture the 2 main rails that go under the floorpans are the subframe connectors. Is that correct?

Dale[/quote']

 

Sorry I should have put some kind of an explanation with that. Yes those two rails are the sub frame connectors and are fabricated from 1x3 tubing but I can't remember wall thickness right now. You can see where they attach to the factory rear frame rails in that picture. Here is a picture of the front connection but I have replaced my front frame rails as well so the connection to factory rails would be different. This picture is before we put a gusset plate between the frame rail and the TC bucket.

 

frame%20to%20sub.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is the my post from when I completed my rails, looks like the photo hosting isn't currently working, I will double check and make sure the links are right.

 

http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=28937&highlight=

 

Looks like sony image station is having some issues, keep checking, it will show up sooner or later

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Jeff, Bill, Marcus. Now I know what I'm looking at. Call me dense, you would right! These subframe connector are just replacements for the original factory ones I presume. I know the ones under my car look dented up a bit so the factory steel must be a little thin.

 

Jeff, in your pic I noticed an area welded on that looked like a mount for a roll bar. Was that a mount for a bolt in, or a weld in unit.

 

Dale

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jeff, in your pic I noticed an area welded on that looked like a mount for a roll bar. Was that a mount for a bolt in, or a weld in unit.

 

It's a bolt in Autopower 4 point bar that we went ahead and welded in.

 

roll%20bar.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok' date=' so in the picture the 2 main rails that go under the floorpans are the subframe connectors. Is that correct?

Dale[/quote']

 

Sorry I should have put some kind of an explanation with that. Yes those two rails are the sub frame connectors and are fabricated from 1x3 tubing but I can't remember wall thickness right now.

 

2x3 tubing, with the 3" side horizontal, is twice as tall, giving much more than 2 times (approx. 8 times) the bending stiffness (vertically) of 1x3 tubing. I put about 1 inch below the floor, and 1 inch above. The part above in no way interferes with my feet, and the 1 inch below is still above some parts of my tightly tucked dual exhaust.

 

Go 2x3 if you can, JMO.

 

http://alteredz.com/structuralmods.htm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That makes sense to me. I guess you had to cut into the floorpan to clear an area for 2X3. My floorpans are not rusted at all and look brand new and I'll be running a 3" exhaust. Correct me if I'm wrong please, but it sounds like I would have plenty of room for the 2X3 without going into the pans.

 

Does going into the pans add to the strength as compared to just welding on the 2X3?

 

Dale

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You'll lose ground clearance over what I have if you put 2x3s below the floor. You're going to have to cut the "frame rail" from the bottom of the floor anyway, and tie the connector to the car front and back, which can be a bit difficult to do stiffly without going through the floor sheetmetal at some point.

 

Welding the cut floor to the side of the connector, or laying it on the uncut floor and welding it probably is pretty close stiffness wise.

 

If you're puting these below the floor, I'd go with 1.5x3 tubing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...