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Fuel Delivery systems.....


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Aside from Carbureted or Fuel injected power plants, what are other parts within the fuel system that you guys have modified? Fuel pumps, lines, fuel cells, tank modifications, regulators, filtration devices? I'll go first:

 

At the rear is a RCI 15 gallon aluminum cell with vent roll over valve and fuel level sender installed. I also have a #an6 return line plumbed to the cell. Moving forward I have an #An8 line exiting the cell and running up to a cut-off valve then to a 6inch Canton fuel filter. After that, the braded line runs to a Mallory 140 Fuel pump. From there, the line snakes up past the suspension and to a hard aluminum half inch line that runs up to the engine compartment. It snakes thru the fenderwell via a 90 degree bulk head union and up to the Summit billet filter and then to a Mallory 140 regulator. At the regulator a #An6 return line runs to a 3/8inch hard line which returns back to the tank. Past the regulator is a Marshal presure gauge, then the fuel log, bradedand using #An8 fittings. The fittings on the Carb are Screened Barry Grant units that also filter crud out of the system. The carb is a Barry Grant Sport claw 750 double pumper. Notice that I have two filters and two screened fittings? I have suffered in the past from crud getting into a fuel system and reaking havok! I'm a little anal in this area!

 

Mike

 

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"I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!"

mjk

 

[This message has been edited by Mikelly (edited February 22, 2000).]

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Mine is not quite so fancy, and it is in the process of getting re-worked. As soon as the new floorpan is installed it go a little

something like this. Summit sump welded into the stock tank with stainless lines and A/N fittings #6 to a holley blue pump that is mounted in the factory location, 1/2 aluminum line is run to the front of the car on the outside of the frame rail to a Holly regulator mounted in the location where the

battery used to go. From there to the carb using braided steel lines and #6 AN fittings there will be a filter and a pressure guage mounted in line in the proper locations, but i havnt picked them out as of yet. The carb is a PRC(Precision Racing Components)

hp5140 holly 750 cfm body with a 850 base plate and other modifications. the carb has been coated with some sort of heat resistant cool looking stuff and is jetted with 74 and 82 jets. I have been changing these around and will change them again after i re-plumb the fuel system and install the turbo 350 tranny.. what are you guys using for a throttle bracket? Mine is a RIG, a piece of all thread bent to match up and not professionaly mounted to the datsun pedal (hose clamp) any help in this department would be greatly appreciated!

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I took the gas pedal assembly off the car and broke off the ball assembly to the pedal and as I suspected, a nice little hole was left in the end of the pedal rod. I had ordered a Lockar custom Accelerator cable form Summit and was able to run the cable end into the firewall with the end attached to the hole in the pedal and the other end connected to a Mr. Gasket linkage plate that holds the cable in place. All parts cost me less than $100 and the assembly looks SUPER trick!

 

Mike

 

------------------

 

"I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!"

mjk

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Can braided fuel lines be used instead of hard lines running the length of the car?

If I remember, the stock hard lines were snaked between the diff and the body and would be a pain to replace. As long as the

braided lines can handle the fuel pressure, is there no problem in using them?

Owen

 

 

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http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

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I run braided line in the right rear fender wheel well, avoiding the whole mess. When we originaly gutted the car, I ripped all the fuel lines out with the intention of re-routing them, which is what I did and my hard line only runs the length of the floorpan/ subframe connector. The rest is braided line.

 

Mike

 

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"I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!"

mjk

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Owen, yes you can use braided lines, but

bending the aluminum tube is not hard to do and it will cost WAY less. Braided line is around 4.00 per foot. you can buy a 20 foot

line of 1/2 for around 20 bucks, you do the math and you will see the light!. Remember that a fuel system in a carburated vehicle

is only around a 5psi to 15psi max pressure. the average is 7-9 psi. Buy the aluminum line and then buy all the a/n fittings to make your system Bullet Proof. One thing that you can also do that i think looks pretty cool is use the left over aluminum line to run you vaccume lines for your brakes and also use it for a wire loom!...I think the aluminum tubes look better than

hose that has the braided sleeve over the top of it, plus it is alot easier to keep cleen!!

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Ditto Mike exactly on the pedal to carb linkage. I did the same thing, Lokar high-tech cable, drilled out the "riveted" on ball on the end of the pedal arm, and used two fender washers (one on either side of firewall) to mount the cable to the firewall.

 

I'm running the stock tank (coated), an inline filter, with the Holley Blue pump triple vibration isolated in the stock location, 3/8" AL line in the stock location in the tunnel. On the firewall will be another inline filter, the holley regulator, a distribution block with fuel pressure gauge and simple old rubber hose going to the Holley Vac Sec 750 carb. 3" high Moroso 14" diam Chrome filter housing - someday I'd like to find a way to run cool air from in front of the radiator to the carb.

 

 

 

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Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - pparaska@tidalwave.net">pparaska@tidalwave.net -

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Guest RON JONES

Harwood 8gal. plastic fuel cell.#10an line (about 10")to a BG 5000 filter that is dirrectly mounted to a BG400 pump,return line comes back to the cell off the pump w/#10 line again.Then a short piece of #10 line and an adapter to 1/2" aluminum line gets the fuel up front.In the eng. compartment The hard line is then joined to #10 braided line again,then it runs to a BG 4-PORT PLUS+ regulator.The regulator is mounted to a competition motor sports mount,it uses two carb studs to place the regulator right next to the 1050 carbshop preped domanator.#8 line off the regulator to the carb(very short only about 3"each).#6 line also off the regulator to the fire wall mounted fuel pressure gauge isolator with the gauge mounted in the car.Your basic drag car setup.

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Guest Anonymous

with my relatively low hp motor (300hp)and a 600 edelbrock carb, will the factory fuel lines be large enough to cover the demands. I understand that I will need an elec. fuel pump. But is every thing else ok for now?

 

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74 260, early 350,K.B.pistons,edelbrock manifold,carb,and cam,202 cast iron heads.Let the transformation begin.

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I dont think so, a fuel injected engine is designed for high pressure low volume.

the carb is low pressure high volume.

I tried running mine through the factory

line and I think I was starving my motor.

I cannot prove this because my tranny was not set up properly and I was "lugging"

the motor way down...

It is very inexspensive to run a large diameter aluminum line and once you do you

will not have to upgrade later when you get the 450hp "bug"..

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Isn't interesting how great minds think alike! Mine is like both Pete and Mike's using the Lokar SS cable from the pedal to carb linkage, I drilled out the "riveted" ball on the end of the pedal arm too but I used two fender washers with rubber washers glued on for insulation) for mounting the cable on the firewall. The cable is held on to the carb using the SS Lokar bracket and dual SS springs.

 

My tank is stock too but I had it reconditioned (coated) by Gas Tank Renu http://www.gastankrenu.com/ I have a Carter street pump mounted in near the stock location. The huge inline filter is mounted on the right fenderwell near the front. Stainless steel braided line with "Endura" ends goes from the filter to the only unusual part of the system.....it feeds 3 Rochester 2 bbl carbs using an Automotion Tri-power setup. It will get topped off with an Edelbrock Elite series finned aluminum & black oval air cleaner.

 

What a pain it was making up a fuel line to connect all the carbs!

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Guest Anonymous

I havent looked at the fuel tank on my z yet, but how do you make the transition from the stock line from the tank to a larger one? Will it still be the small line comming out of the tank or will the large line go all the way into the tank?

 

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74 260, early 350,K.B.pistons,edelbrock manifold,carb,and cam,202 cast iron heads.Let the transformation begin.

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