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Ok Im doing a complete performance rebuild of my turbo l28 Im still considering destroking it with a l24 crank and late l24 rods and running a big turbo. Anyway this is the only place Ive found selling a performance rebuild kit with forged pistons. I do need those. I plan on using a big turbo with a nitrous hit to help spoolup Anyhow please check out this link http://www.importperformanceparts.net/ It has a complete performance rebuild kit with ross forged pistons for 1199.00 Does anyone know of a better cheaper source or substitute?? Please let me know as I am saving up to go this route asap.

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Ok Im doing a complete performance rebuild of my turbo l28 Im still considering destroking it with a l24 crank and late l24 rods and running a big turbo. Anyway this is the only place Ive found selling a performance rebuild kit with forged pistons.

 

Okay, regardless of whether it's sane to destroke your motor, I'd just like to mention one thing - You don't HAVE to buy a kit to get forged pistons. In fact, I don't think that "kit" is saving you much (if any) money over having pistons custom made to your specs.

 

Also, I personally don't think a piston "kit" is a terribly good idea for an engine this old, simplly because you don't know (at least not without measuring) how many times the block/head has been milled, or the head reworked (changing the combustion chamber volume), so your compression ratio estimates could be quite a bit off, or worse yet, the pistons could end up riding above the deck at TDC. Also, you'll be stuck with whatever type of piston they give you, which may not be ideal (for example, a dished piston with a closed chamber head would be a dumb idea).

 

If you spec your own pistons and do the appropriate measurements on your block and head, you can get exactly the compression ratio you want. You could even spec the pin height to allow longer rods than the L24s. I think there was an I4 L-series with an even longer rod, or you could have those made to spec, too.

 

If the "ready made" pistons were a whole lot cheaper I could understand the logic to trying to make them work, but in just about every case I've seen for the L-series engine, they aren't.

 

Oh - one other thing...

Copper Head Gasket? Really? Who makes that? Maybe I just haven't been paying attention since I have a head gasket solution already?

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Well I didnt think 1200 for the engine kit was bad I have been hearing 6-700 for custom made pistons. And I like the idea of toga bearings and performance piston rings was a nice idea. Heck its hard enough to find generic rebuild parts. My engine has never been torn apart so Im not to woried about miscalulated compression. As to scottie I am hoping to build a high revving rock solid engine that I can throw 20 lbs of boost at easily. This was mentioned in the turbo and supercharger forum not to long ago and someone did this with no intercooler. I would like to optimize what that person did. Please hit me up with other resources you may know about if I can save some money. Im hoping for about 375-400 rwhp with a monster t61 or similar turbo.

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A decent set of pistons in an unmolested shortblock, a little massaging on the heads and the correct combination of bolt-ons (this is where you make the power) will get you 400rwhp with no problems. Regardless of what you do internally, you are still going to need the right combo of bolt-ons (turbo/exhaust/IC/engine mgt/fueling) so why go to all that trouble and expense unless it really makes a difference that you make 400rwhp at 7000+ instead of 6000. With a turbo engine, the higher you push the power band beyond stock, the less "rock solid" things tend to get. One thing that a lot of folks miss is that a turbo engine is all about torque and if this is a street-driven car, you go for torque as low as possible rather than hp as high as possible. What your combo is doing is lowering the torque and moving it up higher in the rev range.

 

OTOH, that is what makes the world go round. I love seeing people come up with new ideas and I hope it is the right choice.

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Just to add to what Scottie said, it's also worth noting that as you try to move the powerband upwards in a turbo motor, it gets harder and harder to find a cam profile that works effectively, especially since we don't have the luxury of separate intake and exhaust cams or variable valve timing. Turbo engines don't like alot of valve overlap, so the old na tricks just don't work.

 

If you want to raise your torque peak a lot higher rpm-wise, plan on trying more than a couple of cam grinds before you find one that works for you. It most likely can be done, but this is not a trivial matter, and you'll have to decide what compromises you can live with.

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Well someone mentioned z31 vg pistons may have a 10-12 mm higher piston than f54 turbo pistons. Allowing a longer rod. Im going to see if I can verify that. So does anyone know a place to buy performance rings bearings and gaskets where I can get the most for my money. Im sure fel pro gaskets from auto zone are fine. Im more concerned with the bearings and rings. Looks like 150 for a metal headgasket. I still like the short stroke idea. Others are doing it. shouldnt be hard to get 8 to 1 compression out of it. I dont know if I find an ld28 crank for a good price I may buy it. I want to make alot of power on a very low budget. I want a rock solid bottom end to start with that can have many external upgrades in its lifetime. Thanks for the input so far guys

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Oh - one other thing...

Copper Head Gasket? Really? Who makes that? Maybe I just haven't been paying attention since I have a head gasket solution already?

 

Gasketworks- http://www.headgasket.com, or Richard Clark Gaskets. Got an address around here somewhere. If anybody wants to go this route lemme know. On the odd chance somebody wants one, they have a custom L24 gasket shape on file we used in our ARRC winning ITS 240Z's.

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As to scottie I am hoping to build a high revving rock solid engine that I can throw 20 lbs of boost at easily. This was mentioned in the turbo and supercharger forum not to long ago and someone did this with no intercooler. I would like to optimize what that person did.

 

Please don't build your motor based on a very short post I made about a friend of mine. He loved that motor, he really did. He's a weird guy. He had other stuff on it to make it work. Like a hacked ECU firing additional injectors into the plenum. He also had some weird type of home made ignition that used a modified distributor to fire 3 RX7 coils instead of the normal setup. When you opened the hood you would question his sanity with all the crap going on in there, but he was able to make it all work. BTW - he's also the guy who converts diesels to run on vegetable oil.

 

His are not the footsteps to follow, because he is a weird freaky mechanical genius type, and when he hits a roadblock he will find some very strange ways around it.

 

If you aren't like him, I suggest you build a regular motor.

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Go for it!!!!!!!!!

 

The reasoning is sound enough, with the destroker you end up with slightly less displacement (2550cc's or so) but you get a really nice rod/stroke ratio, that should increase your detonation resistance a great deal. Someone in the last thread mentioned that this was the same bore & stroke that the RB26DETT used.

 

I'd love to see someone else try this. I was thinking about it on a whim and am not sure when (or frankly if) I'll ever get around to building one. I am certain that the slight decrease in displacement when compared with a stock turbo motor can be offset with a greater CR, and more boost at higher RPM's.

 

As for revving the piss out of it, I didn't necessarily have that in mind at all... Like these guys say, it's of minimal advantage with a properly sized turbo.

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Well Im definatly looking at some other options such as running a 145.9 mm rod from the l20b or similar. With the shorter l24 stroke Im not sure if I will be able to use the f54 pistons or not. Looking into custom pistons. It would be sweet to run the 145.9 mm rods with the l28 or ethe ld28 crank its only 1.9 mm longer then the 73 l24 rods. Still looking for someone to spit out some part sources. Is ross the best place for custom pistons. Looks like about 700.00 with the parts needed to make them work. Plus rings and the rest of te rebuild stuff. Any word on z31 pistons as to whether they have a higher wrist pin or not?

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http://www.racetep.com/zturboeng.html $795 for JE pistons in any bore size and compression ratio you want, with wrist pins and total seal gapless rings...I dont know if thats more up your alley than the kit you listed, but at least you can make your own pistons. Might be a better deal than custom ross pistons for $690.88 (as per the ross website).
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well you can order L6 forged pistone from summit, they sell the wiseco brand, if you do a manufacturer part number search for # WIS-K516M84 you'll see they sell the 6 pack for 369.95 but I am not sure what bore or if they are dished/flat or what the wiseco website did not specify

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man 369.00!!!!!! thats enough reason to keep the standard rod and stroke :) of course those should still allow the l24 crank and rods and bring the budget down....Hmmm Drax as far as injecting this thing it will be through megasquirt for now. Ive got a long way to go before any of this comes together and I will probably upgrade the fuel management when and If I actually hit high numbers with this setup. I think it would be fun

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I ordered my Ross pistons through Summit ( with rings, pins, and clips) for $463 to my door. You can order the pistons through Summit, and they will tell you to call Ross for specs you need. I ended up sending them ( Ross) a sample L28ET piston and described what exact mods/ size I wanted. They turned out perfect.

 

Aaron

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Ok 463 with rings is a steal. What bore sizing did you use. Does anyone know how much further up the wrist pin could be located on a stock f54 designed piston. Would definatly be sweet to run a longer rod in my l28 engine and forget the l24 crank. I should have enough parts to build a destroked n/a motor with the parts I have left :)

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  • 3 weeks later...

Looks like we have found the cheapest source for pistons what about the rest of the rebuild. I would like to have premium bearings rather then the beck arnley ones that are readily available. Any advice? Should I just use the napa and autozone rebuild stuff? Getting closer........... :)

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