Jersey Posted August 24, 2004 Author Share Posted August 24, 2004 Hey guys. Thanks for all the information. I'll let you know how it holds up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 It depends on the method of linking the ends to the bar. If it is free floating (rod ends) then they stress should be uniform compression or tension. If the bar is rigidly mounted on the ends, then there will be some bending loads induced and the stresses at the end of the bar could be higher than the rest of the bar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted June 21, 2005 Share Posted June 21, 2005 come on guys...this is supposed to be about squids! Jersey, I hear ya. The bar works to stiffen and has the added advantage of a "crumple-zone". In case of a side impact at the strut towers it will fold up and not transfer force to the other tower. Pure Genius! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74_5.0L_Z Posted June 22, 2005 Share Posted June 22, 2005 How's this for a rear strut bar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted June 22, 2005 Share Posted June 22, 2005 I like that one but where do I put my bike, golf clubs, and travel bags? LOL I guess you can't have everything. I once drove my 280Z from NY to Cape Hatteras, NC with two people, camping gear for a week, and enough windsurfing gear to rig up three sails and three windsurf boards on the roof! I have to find the photos... I re-read some of the tech discussion above. And yes, anything will deflect with any load applied to it. Also, everytime I accelerate going west, the days and nights get shorter lol. Fortunately, I usually make round trips so the change in the earths rotation gets cancelled out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peej410 Posted August 6, 2005 Share Posted August 6, 2005 to bring this back from the dead again... im designing a strut tower assembly for the front of my car. two diagonals will go back from the strut towers to the firewall and will be reinforced by bars going to the dash bar in the car. im now trying to make a removable cross brace from one strut to the other, should i make it adjustable like a big tierod? since it will be bolt in should i use heims on the ends or solid mount a 1/4 inch tab to the plate i already made for them and machine some solid stock to put a bolt through it. also should i put the bolt in from top to bottom or front to back ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZROSSA Posted August 6, 2005 Share Posted August 6, 2005 P.J. You probably dont need to make it adjustable but its a hell of a lot easyer to fit if they are. I just made some for my ride. Gots some left and right rod ends and some extra nuts for them. Welded the extra nuts to the tubing and there you have it, on car adjustable bars. I cant rally see how bolting the bolts through front to back or up and down makes much of a difference structurally. Mine are front front to back on the strut and up and down on the fire wall. Beacuase the strut aproach the fire wall at an angle this made the brakets a hell of a lot easyer to make and I think it also speads the load better with a lighter bracket. You might even be able to share the mounts so that you only need three mount instead of the six that I made. My engine was out so I wanted to make shure I had enough room. So I didnt go that way. Douglas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peej410 Posted August 6, 2005 Share Posted August 6, 2005 hrm i was just wondering what the advantages would be to load the chassis and stuff like that. the diagonals are going to be welded in. they arent meeting at the center but instead about 10 inches apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted August 7, 2005 Share Posted August 7, 2005 Think triangles. Also, the cowl box is a pretty strong part of the chassis (because its a nice triangle shaped box) so you probably don't need any bracing going through it. A plate that spans the base of the triangle will provide lots of strength. The plate needs to go from the cowl lip in the firewall (where the rear hood gasket slips on) down past the line of spot welds. This setup was actually designed on a finite element system: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peej410 Posted August 8, 2005 Share Posted August 8, 2005 well the only problem with that is that my firewalls modified... http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/peej410/detail?.dir=b912&.dnm=1885.jpg&.src=ph Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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