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LS1 conversion?


Guest jake

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I wonder what the part list would be for a LS1 conversion for my 73 Z? What tranny would you need? I would like to put in a 5 speed. I am just starting to look around for info. Is there any place I can check in addition to JTR?

 

thanks!

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Stick with the LS1 motor.You wont regret it.I have a extra LS1 motor mount kit I'll hook you up with if interested.Powercoated and ready for bolt it.It uses the C5 motor mounts.

Been reading some posts over the last few hours. It's getting confusing but it seems like the LS1 it the way to go. What about the LT1?? I saw one on ebay:

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7915374922&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

normal_ls1%20mount1.jpg
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Don't be too quick to rule out the LT1. Very popular swap, can be done at a fraction of the price of the LS1 and you have the advantange of the JTR manual as an installation guide. (LS1 requires different mounts, but information on that is getting better).

 

One big question to answer is smog requirements. Most states extempt old cars from testing, but not from having all the smog equipment. Pre 96 engines are not OBDII thus don't require things like cats and ABS wheel sensors to be compliant. One member found out the hard way that after completing his LS1 swap he couldn't get the vehicle legally licensed. Others haven't had that problem (or left out the word "legally") so just make sure you do your homework before you start.

 

Having said all that, the LS1 has quite a few advantages over the older technology LT engines. A better stock power rating for one.

 

So keep reading old posts and monitor ebay to get an idea of prices before you commit.

 

BTW, thanks for the pics of the LS1 mounts. Now saved in my personal archives!

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The JTR guide is useless with a LS1?

 

I am planning on swapping the LS1 into my Z car that is already registered. Does anybody need to know I'm changing things? I just could keep it under the radar...

 

Is the computer system a nightmare or can I get enough help from these forums?

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I am planning on swapping the LS1 into my Z car that is already registered. Does anybody need to know I'm changing things? I just could keep it under the radar...

 

Depends on your state. Here in California we have bi-annual smog inspections for cars 30 years and younger. Hard to keep it under the radar once the inspector pops the hood.

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The don't do that stuff in CT. (Yeah!)

 

So I can strip all the smog off the engine? I'm trying to get a decent idea of what is involved with this swap. My list:

 

LS1 - what year more 'desirable' ?

Tranny - T-5 ? what other manual tranny options are there?

Computer - will it be a nightmare getting the engine to run right?

Mounts - can I get mounts from a chevy and modify them?

Exhaust - what headers will fit? Single dump or double?

Body strengthening - can I leave it alone or will the engine tweak the car?

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The don't do that stuff in CT. (Yeah!)

 

So I can strip all the smog off the engine? I'm trying to get a decent idea of what is involved with this swap. My list:

 

LS1 - what year more 'desirable' ?

Tranny - T-5 ? what other manual tranny options are there?

Computer - will it be a nightmare getting the engine to run right?

Mounts - can I get mounts from a chevy and modify them?

Exhaust - what headers will fit? Single dump or double?

Body strengthening - can I leave it alone or will the engine tweak the car?

 

ALL of these question have answers just waiting for you to read them.....do some searching.....

Tranny: T56 or 4L60E

Mounts: Make your own or buy the kit from John's Cars

2001/02 are the best but any year is ok

Wiring is easy, but can be time consuming

Headers are available, but pricey

Body strengthing....lots of options...search for 'strut braces' and 'subframe connectors'

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Contact John at http://www.johnscars.com for conversion components for an LS1. Be sure to tell him that you have a late model 240Z and which transmission, T56 or 4L60E, you plan to use. Also, you need to decide if you're going to keep the stock R180 differential or upgrade to the R200. That decision should be based on how you intend to use the car - daily driver, drag racer, crooked track racer, etc. You do realize that, even if you do all the work, this is going to cost you $6,000+ just for the drive train - not including any other upgrades in suspension, braking, interior, exterior, etc.

BTW - living in CT - I hope you have a car that is rust-free. If it has any major rust you need to forget it and find another body. The 240Z will require some significant reinforcement to the body structure to ensure it will handle the torque of a V8 over an extended period of time.

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Thanks for the info.Your car looks great! I hope someday my engine bay will look like that!

My car has undergone a complete restoration. See my website:

 

http://www.geocities.com/jasonparuta

 

I installed a 3.9 R200 this year, custom 4 wheel discs, and on and on. Also, this baby has no rust.

 

Any other pointers and gotchas would be appreciated...

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OK - now that I've seen your car you obviously know your way around it!

Sweet ride. :2thumbs:

Looks like you've got everything pretty much done except for the quest for more torque & HP. Lots of that going on around this site. Keep using the search button and asking questions and we'll get you there. Be careful to differentiate betweeen facts and opinions - we all have lots of both! :-D

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Thanks for the info.Your car looks great! I hope someday my engine bay will look like that!

My car has undergone a complete restoration. See my website:

 

http://www.geocities.com/jasonparuta

 

I installed a 3.9 R200 this year' date=' custom 4 wheel discs, and on and on. Also, this baby has no rust.

 

Any other pointers and gotchas would be appreciated...[/quote']

 

I never said the JTR manual is useless. Just that you can't use the same mounting position. I am confident you will find the book very useful even if parts of it aren't directly applicable.

 

If you have done all of that to your car, then my comments about money probably don't matter. You might be happier with the LS. Unless you plan on forced induction in which case some people feel there is a higher performance ceiling with an iron block.

 

But my point about smog is still valid. Just because CT doesn't have regular inspections doesn't mean you can "strip all that smog stuff off your engine". You are undoubtably still required to have it. But the kicker is with no inspection you will probably not have to worry about getting caught. Your decision.

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Yeah, I figured that manual is pretty important so I just ordered it. My girlfriend is gonna want to beat all you guys up for getting me sidetracked with another project that doesn't involve her!

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If you decide to get the LS1...get a 01 or newer.They had the best flowing heads if you plan on keeping it stock.At least another 15HP...it all adds up.I bought my car with the LS1 in it.....but I removed it and made new mounds for it because I didnt want to use someone else's design.By looking at the pictures of what your doing to your car.I'm sure you can build your LS1 motor mounts without a manuel.Here is my new motor mount.Cost me $35 in materal or you can spend $$$ on someone else's kit.The tranny mount is even easier then the motor mount.

 

Yeah, I figured that manual is pretty important so I just ordered it. My girlfriend is gonna want to beat all you guys up for getting me sidetracked with another project that doesn't involve her!
john_031.sized.jpg

john_033.sized.jpg

john_028.sized.jpg

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Those mounts look clean and well thought out. Great welds! Thanks for posting the photos. I can't tell what's directly under your custom mounts. Are they bolted to the original datsun mounts or is that something else?

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