Need a 280ZX Rear Camber kit

[260DET]

K-mac have a terrible reputation, I would not touch their stuff

[Guest nitr0]

Would something like this work? Made by Noltec.

 

 

They are about $400AU a pair and allow camber and caster adjustment. Those are for S13-S15 Silvias but are avaliable for Datsun 1600's and a variety of other cars, I'm sure the 280zx has a similar stud pattern to one of Noltec's strut tops and it could be adapted to fit - this is HybirdZ.....

 

This is a Datsun 180B strut top

[JMortensen]

ZX is semi-trailing arm rear suspension. That would work in the front.

[Guest nitr0]

Oh yer i keep forgetting that.... I'll put the car up on the hoist next week at work and harass one of the mechanics to have a look with me - I'm just an office monkey / computer geek so if "the boys" say they can build something for me i'll let u know.

[260DET]

Do you work for Noltec, nitrO?

[zcarnut]

....Does anyone have a little more info on slotting the crossmember on a zx?

 

I copied the below info from a web site that no longer exists. I did not copy the pictures. I cannot verify its accuracy but I think you will get a good idea of what the author did:

 

 

280ZX Rear Camber Adjustment

 

Correcting your rear camber and rear toe (or just making it adjustable) is accomplished by slotting the bolt holes on the rear trailing arms pivot bushings. Essentially you duplicate the Z31 factory setup used on the inner bushings which allow adjustment.

 

Basically you slot the inner pivot bolt holes for camber adjustment (slots run up/down) and the outer pivot bolt holes (slots run front to back) for toe adjustment.

 

You will need _two_ pairs of the Z31 inner pivot bolts, pivot bushings and the off center washers. The Z31 bolts have a larger diameter than the 280ZX pivot bolts so you will also need to replace the 280ZX pivot bushings with the Z31 inner pivot bushings.

 

You can do the slotting using a large round file with a coarse surface (bastard) or a die grinder with a 1/4" milling bit. You need to carefully lay out the slots using a machinist’s square up against the crossmember bushings mounting circles.

 

If adding the adjustment is for the purpose of correcting an excess negative camber problem (tires tilted inward at the top) you make the inner slots in the direction shown only. If you don't have a camber problem and wish to be able to dial in more negative camber (for racing applications) you would file the slots in the opposite direction.

 

Make the outer slots in the direction shown for toe in adjustment as toe out is never desired.

 

When filing the slots you must maintain accuracy. Check the slot width often using the pivot bolt. Excess slop in the slot will cause alignment problems. Make the slots 1" long.

 

Cut steel blocks out of 1/4" square bar stock, each about 3/4" long. To get a good fit the blocks may require a little grinding. Position the blocks using vice grips and weld the blocks on either side of the slots. The blocks should be positioned so that the off center washer just fits between them. Only weld the back and side surfaces, not the surface that the washer contacts. Make sure the welds are well burned in and with a large filet to provide support.

 

When assembled turning the pivot bolt will force the pivot bolts to slide back and forth in the slot, changing the alignment. Tightening the pivot bolts nuts will secure the bolts preventing movement.

 

I used 1.0" of negative camber and 1/8“ of toe-in.