Lost and I need DIRECTION --->

[BillZ260]

I have been stuck in the "what to build" rut. I want to put an engine together but don't want to really mess with the trips to the shop and all that. And I want it to eventually be super charged. I have been lookign at the PROCHARGERS. BUT I can't afford to do it all at once.

 

SO, I am trying to put together a crate engine package that will pull hard and last a while for a decent price. This is what I am looking at...

 

NAL-12486041 Chevrolet: 350, 330 HP/380 ft.-lbs. of torque, 350 H.O. crate engine $2,400 maybe less (more on that later)

SPECS: Four-bolt main block, 9.1:1 compression ratio, dual pattern camshaft (.435 in. intake/.460 in. exhaust lift with 212 degrees intake/222 degrees exhaust duration at .050 in. lift), nodular cast iron crankshaft, powdered metal connecting rods, and cast iron 64cc Vortec cylinder heads. The finished product generates 330 horses at 5,000 rpm, and 380 ft.-lbs. of torque at 3,800 rpm.

 

GPT-6282010VE Demon Carburetion Road Demon Jr., Universal, 625 CFM, 4-Barrel, Single Inlet, Silver $289 maybe less

INFO: Max-Density rib-reinforced cast baseplates and metering blocks, vacuum secondary operation, concentric venturii, and float bowls with EZ-Safe sight glasses for safe float level adjustment. They also offer two-corner idle adjustability, a large transfer tube with dual-captured O-ring sealing, built-in power valve blowout protection, and vacuum ports. Every carb is wet-flow tested, baseline calibrated, and comes with a detailed tuning manual.

 

MAA-4748201 Mallory Distributor, Unilite, Vacuum/Mechanical, Photo Optic Trigger, Iron Gear, Billet Aluminum $219

 

The parts that I HAVE are... the Vortec Edelbrock Performer Intake and a set of shorty headers w/ 2.5 dual exhaust going through 2 dynomax mufflers. I am not sure which coil to run and am haveing a hard time making decisions.

 

I also thought about getting the base GM crate motor w/ 260 hp and 8.5 compression. I like the lower compression for the blower addition later on. What do you guy's think? I am pretty lost. I have a LOT of parts and stuff to build but at this point, I just want a (NEW) running engine.

 

Funds are somwhat limited but I just got into a deal where I maybe able to get stuff at cost, but I am not really sure of the details. Will let you know as I learn more.

 

HIT ME! I would really like to get my project rolling again.

[dsommer]

Mosey on over to Rogers, AR, take a ride in my Z and then decide.

 

I've been offering you this "deal" for a while now. Come on over Bill.

 

David

[Sleeper-Z]

goto a swap meet and build your motor from there...

 

with that made in mexico motor by the time you're done with it and prepping it for blower applications you'll ditch everything except for the block.

 

also get atleast a 650cfm.

 

*note, just read that first motor comes with vortecs meaning unless you bought a intake specifically for vortecs, your gonna need a new one. in this case, get a bigger cam, machine the heads for larger springs, get larger springs, slap an edelbrock rpm manifold, and a 750 carb and you should be packin a little bit of a hit.

 

p.s. those GM 8.5 pistons won't hold up to boost.

[BillZ260]

Ive planned on using the vortec's from the beginning and that is the intake that I have. I didn't know those were put together in Mehico. HMMM. I have the stuff to build a motor but I guess I am lazy!

 

Thanks for the suggestions DOS and Sleeper, any others???

[Mikelly]

I built my 383 stroker using ebay NEW parts... Hbeam rods, Wiseco pro forged pistons, new internal balanced Scat 9000 Crank... Lots of NEW PARTS deals out there on ebay... You could buy all the parts for a 100% bulletproof shortblock... I'd NOT recommend the base GM motor in a blower application. The rods and rod bolts are weak, not to mention the skirts on the pistons...

 

Mike 8)

[pparaska]

A Z buddy (Glenn McCoy - you'll be hearing more about him in the future months) and I have been researching 383 builds for the 500 hp or less range lately.

 

One is for an emissions legal 88 Vette that someone he knows is paying him to research and build, so it has the Hot Cam and Fastburn heads (no way the Vette owner will allow cast iron heads on his motor!)

 

But that may not apply to you. A procharger on a 350 will easily take you past 500 hp, and the Cast Steel Scat 9000 crank will not be the best choice. You'd need a Forged unit. Same with the Rods we've been looking at - also Scat, 6", I beam with capscrews. You'd need more than that.

 

I'd be looking at Lunati, Callies, etc. for good forged crank and rods for a blower 350.

 

I also think that you're going to have to change things around alot to start out NA and then go blown. The best way to do this is to use a good 2-valve-relief forged flat top piston, and 65 cc heads, while doing a Zero deck on the block and using a 0.039" gasket. That'll give you 10.3:1 for a 350, or 11:1 for a 383... On the 383 build, You could use a 0.010" deck height and have 10.7:1 static compression, and still have .049" quench height - as much as is recommended by Vizard and others. Throw a late intake closing event on the cam and bring the

 

To go to the blower, you could swap on heads with 74cc chambers and get

9.1:1 static compression ratio on the zero-decked 350, and 9.75:1 on the .010" deck height 383.

 

I really don't see the point in going with a 350 when a correctly chosen blower will probably top out at 6500 anyway. With the lower compression you'll need, a 383 with more low end torque makes more sense to me. The 383's piston speed readline should be about 6500 anyway, so that would give you all the rpm you'd need, and more torque across the board.

 

For the Vette, Glenn started with a 1pc seal 350 block, and added the Series 9000 Chevy Cast Pro Comp Stroker Lightweight Crank (PN 9-350-3750-6000) which is designed for a 6" rod. The nice thing is that with the 6" I beam rods and light (short) pistons, this assembly is very easy to balance internally. I dropped the crank, Scat I-beam capscrew 6" rods, and KB dished pistons off at the machine shop today to be balanced - I'll let you know what the outcome is.

 

In fact, Summit sells an Eagle kit that has a Cast crank, I beam rods (5.7"), and hyper or forged pistons, bearings and rings to do this and the assembly is internally balanced with a new flex plate and balancer for less that $1000 with the Hyper pistons. These new lightweight Cast cranks for the 383 are pretty nice:

- Aero-Wing counterweights - David Vizard recently showed this to be worth 15-20 HP even below 6000rpm.

- Straight shot oil holes

- Lightening holes in all rod throws

- Stress-relieved and shot peened

- Precision ground and Micro=polished

(That's from the Scat site, but the Eagle crank looks to be VERY similar, if you know what I mean .

 

Glenn had to only slightly grind the bottoms of the cylinders (I mean took maybe .005" off in a 1/2" by 1/4" area) to make the 3.75" crank and rods have enough clearance in the 350 block! It's so little effort, I can't see why NOT to just jump up to the 383 - the parts are the same price and lots of piston options are available - cheap.

 

I have one of the lightweight Cast cranks (Scat 9-350-3750-6000) in my 400 - (Bearing spacers were used on the mains). The guy that built the short block with Cat 6" i-beam rods and Probe SRS forged 1.125" comp ht. pistons had to take a bit of metal OUT of the crank throws to balance it!

 

Actually, Glenn ordered the Eagle rotating kit yesterday for HIS 2pc seal 383 build. That will go in a very rare Z that you guys are going to love - more later! That kit was less that $1000, and includes crank, rods, pistons, rings, bearings, flexplate, harmonic damper - all balanced by Eagle as an assembly. Add a 350 block, a tiny bit of grinding for clearance and you have a short block that needs a cam, timing set & cover, oil pump and pan. Talk about cheap! Glenn's engine will use a Crane 284/284 hyd flat tappet cam and put out 435 lb-ft @4500rpm, and 425 hp @6000 according to DD2000. He's using TFS G2 Twisted Wedge heads, RPM Air Gap manifold and a 750 Edelbrock carb, with 1-3/4" block huggers.

 

One question for you. If 435/425 lb-ft/hp is so cheap and easy to get with a 383, would the blower really be needed?

[BillZ260]

One question for you. If 435/425 lb-ft/hp is so cheap and easy to get with a 383, would the blower really be needed?

 

NO...

 

Geez! I hate that I understand what you are saying but can't put a "package" of components like that together myself. It all seems so experimental with all the parts available, I guess I am getting overwhelmed in the decision making process when it comes to making my choices for all these engine components.

 

I am very confident in my ability to assemble the engine, but as far what to buy, man, it's just alot to take in. I want it to be right and not be swapping out this and that getting the "feel" i am looking for. (I know that's alot to ask)

 

What I have available is a 1pc rear main 2 bolt block with PM rods and stk crank. Set of vortec heads that need a valve job, vortec performer (non airgap) intake, and that's about it.

 

So I need to drop the stk internals, buy a stroker kit, get the block up to snuff and get the heads reworked. That cam seemed pretty mild, would the stock vortec valvetrain handle that lift? I know the heads are going to make a difference in the 435hp, but I am not looking for more than 400, actually i figured 300-350 would be plenty.

 

I wish you could put your performance, budget, and other requirments into DD2000 and have it spit your parts list!!! Some one develope this software...

 

 

The Guys and cars on this site set the bar so high, I want to be able to make you guys proud, and a little gealous, of what I put together. Thanks for the support.

[pparaska]

One question for you. If 435/425 lb-ft/hp is so cheap and easy to get with a 383, would the blower really be needed?

 

NO...

 

Geez! I hate that I understand what you are saying but can't put a "package" of components like that together myself. It all seems so experimental with all the parts available, I guess I am getting overwhelmed in the decision making process when it comes to making my choices for all these engine components.

 

The really cool part is that Eagle and Summit (and many others) can sell you the complete, coordinated package!

 

I am very confident in my ability to assemble the engine, but as far what to buy, man, it's just alot to take in. I want it to be right and not be swapping out this and that getting the "feel" i am looking for. (I know that's alot to ask)

 

Sorry, I didn't mean to overwhelm you - but I'm glad I made you think - and hopefully saved you some bucks! If all you want is 400hp, a 350 can do that without the blower! A 383 can do it and give you a more docile engine.

 

What I have available is a 1pc rear main 2 bolt block with PM rods and stk crank. Set of vortec heads that need a valve job, vortec performer (non airgap) intake, and that's about it.

 

You could keep the PM rods, and just get a crank and pistons. Eagle Specialty products just introduced a crank to use in your block with the 5.7" PM rods you have to make it an internally balanced 383:

http://www.eaglerod.com/products/Chevy/small%20block/SBC%20cranks.html

Part number is 10352375057I.

 

Summit sells it for $245: http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=esearch.asp&N=100&Ntk=PartSearch&Ntt=ESP-10352375057I&x=0&y=0

 

Then you'd need pistons for a 383 (3.75" stroke) 350 with 5.7" rods. If no blower, you can use hypereutectic pistions. KB Silvolite has some that will work:

 

http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&part=UEM-KB134030-8&N=120+4294925232+4294922410+308250

KB-134 - flat top, 7cc valve reliefs. With the piston-deck-height at 0.010", with a .039" gasket, you'd have 10.6:1 static compression ratio. With a cam like the Comp Cams Xtreme XR282HR roller cam (since you have the roller lifter block), you'd have a dynamic compression ratio of 8.37:1. That'd be a nice setup, but need 92 or 93 octane fuel.

 

http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&part=UEM-KB134030-8&N=120+4294925232+4294922410+308250

KB-135 - dished piston, 18cc dish. With a Zero Deck, that'd give 9.67:1 static compression. That'd be too little for the XR282HR cam, I'd back down to the XR276HR. That'd give a dynamic compression ratio of 7.8:1. Low, but you could run 89 or maybe 87 octane.

 

Both are $250 a set. I chose the 0.030" overbore size, but 0.040" and 0.060" are available.

 

Personally, with the Vortec's I'd go with the flat top piston and 0.010" deck height. The Vortecs are great at detonation resistance (lots of swirl, etc.) and with .039" quench height with this setup, you MIGHT be able to get away with 89 octane, even though you're at 8.37:1 Dynamic compression ratio. Or just buck up and figure you'll need to use 92/93 octane.

 

So I need to drop the stk internals, buy a stroker kit, get the block up to snuff and get the heads reworked. That cam seemed pretty mild, would the stock vortec valvetrain handle that lift? I know the heads are going to make a difference in the 435hp, but I am not looking for more than 400, actually i figured 300-350 would be plenty.

 

Well, actually, you could use your rods (if they're o.k. and don't need to be resized) or get new rods for less than $200. Get the Vortecs reworked for the increased lift of the cams noted above, and maybe buck up to some roller rockers. Do you still have the stock roller lifters? If not they are not too expensive - less that $200 from what I saw browsing. You might want to get better pushrods - but check what length that build up gives you first - the zero decking will mean you may need shorter than standard ones.

 

I ran the 10.6:1 383 with the flat tops, dual plane manifold, 750 carb, large tube headers with mufflers, with the XR282HR cam and called it a hydraulic flat tappet cam (since it's a rather slow acting roller, and to be conservative) in DD2000 and got this:

rpm___hp___tq

2000 155 407

2500 206 432

3000 251 438

3500 295 442

4000 337 442

4500 374 436

5000 399 419

5500 409 391

6000 400 350

6500 380 307

7000 348 261

 

First, realize that DD2000 is great at estimating peak numbers but over-estimates the torque/power below 3500 rpm (Internet-backed observations). So don't believe that 400 lbft at 2000rpm number.

 

But still, a torque peak of ~445 lb ft at 3750-ish rpm (same 442 at 3500 and 4000 means it peaked halfway between them at a higher number), and a hp peak of ~410 hp at 5500 rpm - that's a nice power band!

 

BTW, I used the Chevy High Performance Vortec flow numbers. Hegelson and Vizard have done a few sets of mildly worked Vortecs and got them to flow a good bit better- especially on the exhaust side. You could consider a custom single pattern cam at that point, because as I remember the Exhaust/Intake flow ratio was around 80%. I'd consider getting a hold of the various articles (I think they are online at CHP, Car Craft mag, etc.) and doing the minor porting they describe. It wasn't much more than opening up the throat under the seats, smoothing the short side sharp edges and narrowing the casting around the valve guides.

 

I wish you could put your performance, budget, and other requirments into DD2000 and have it spit your parts list!!! Some one develope this software...

 

But you have us .

 

The Guys and cars on this site set the bar so high, I want to be able to make you guys proud, and a little gealous, of what I put together. Thanks for the support.

 

Don't worry, we're proud of every in-progress and finished HybridZ!

 

Jealous. I will be - that motor rocks for little dollars!

 

Cheers,

Pete

[BillZ260]

So I thought i would do a bit of searching for my self (so i wouldn't feel completely lazy)and came up with this....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7921539675&category=33620

 

Then I come back to post and Pete has WAY outdone himself.

 

OK, tomorrow at lunch I will check into some of the parts you listed, dial up at home SUCKS.

 

The block i have doesn't have a roller cam but did have the PM rods, and the holes in the lifter galley for the roller lifter retainer. I think it was out of a burban.

 

450 hp is way beyond what I need to start out with You trying to kill me? I don't think I can say how much I appretiate this site and people.

 

Special thanks to you Pete for your input.

 

I will do some digging and see what I come up with.

 

later

[pparaska]

You're welcome.

 

I might have to revise my advice though - 8.35:1 dynamic compression on iron heads, even vortecs, is probably too much. My mind got clouded since Glenn and I designed the Vette engine with the Fastburn Aluminum heads and we ended up with around 10.5:1 compression (static) and a similar dynamic compression ratio.

 

So the Zero-decked 383 with the 18cc dish pistons is probably the safer bet.

 

Pete

[BillZ260]

Ok re-read through all that! and checked summit and eaglerod for the parts you listed (THANKS!). I am going to need to get this pictue of everything that needs to be done in my head and on paper, so I don't look like a fool when I got to the machine shop, or when I order parts...

 

Block - 2 bolt late model with 1pc rear main seal NEEDS

Vated

Probably bored/honed

Decked to .000(?)

Clearanced for the stroker crank (wee bit)

~4-500?

 

Crank ESP-10352375057I

Buy from summit for $245

 

Rods, use my PM's but make sure they are ok before I buy the Crank. Need to have the crank and rods ballanced?? $$??

 

Pistons KB HYPEREUTECTIC

UEM-KB135030-8 $251 for the .030 D-Dished pistons

 

Cam

COMP XR276HR Roller, should I find a complete timing kit with this cam? There was 3 versions listed on Summit, not sure what the dif is, all listed for SBC

CCA-08-423-8

CCA-08-503-8

CCA-12-423-8

$245 cam only, lifters, rockers, springs and timing kit another +$500?

 

Heads

Vortecs I apparently paid too much for (300 set)

Valve job

mild port

machine for springs

$$??

 

CARB

still need to buy, 750? What do you think about those BG Road Demon carbs?

 

Distributor and Coil, I like the mallory LED Dizzy, is that ok? And is there an ultimate coil to have? I am open to opinions, wanted to keep it a smaller OD dizzy as to have room beween it and the fire wall.

 

Plugs/Wires Also could use help on these, they are not all the same and probably need to be matched to my set up right?

 

 

OK, I fell like I am gettin' somwhere now I so appretiate your input and help, starting to feel like I have some direction....Now only if I had another Job to buy all this at ONCE!

[pparaska]

I wish someone else would give Bill another point of view on this stuff! I certainly don't have the last word on this. Grumpyvette? Others?

 

Block - 2 bolt late model with 1pc rear main seal NEEDS

Vated

Probably bored/honed

Decked to .000(?)

Clearanced for the stroker crank (wee bit)

~4-500?

 

Below are some machine shop prices I found quickly on the Internet. Realize that prizes for machine work vary greatly depending on where you are and the quality of the work' date=' reputation, etc. I found these prices at http://www.rpmrons.com/

 

- Check crank bores for alignment (not sure- should be very cheap)

- If not straight, have it align honed. Around $85

 

-Zero Decked (remove approximately 0.017" to get to a 9.008" crank

centerline to deck distance) This is usually $125 to $150.

 

The reason I say 9.008" is that the KB135 piston has a compression height of 1.433". That with a 5.7" rod and teh 3.75" stroke gives you a zero deck height (crank CL to block deck) of (3.75/2 + 5.7 + 1.433) = 9.008"

 

- Bored and then Honed with torque plates installed. Around $160

(Bring them the Pistons so they can hone each cylinder to size for each piston)

 

- Clearance for Stroker Crank (not sure - probably less than $100 though)

 

- Vat the block. Around $35-$50.

 

- Install new cam bearings and freeze plugs. Probably around $50.

 

That's probably near the minimun to do. Grumpyvette SURELY has a thread on here about what SHOULD be done. Alot of stuff you can do yourself, of course, like smoting the oil passage entry in the rear main cap, clean out the threads in the block, etc. You know all that, from what I can tell.

 

Crank ESP-10352375057I

Buy from summit for $245

 

Rods, use my PM's but make sure they are ok before I buy the Crank.

 

Yeah, You could assume that the new crank has the standard 2.100" journal and is within a few thousandths of that and buy some rod bearings and measure the installed rod bearing dimensions versus the standard 2.100" journal. Also check the dimensions of the rod big end to see if it's up to snuff (correct parting line versus verticle dimensions for crush and to keep the bearing from skimming oil off with it's edge at the parting line). Check the side clearance too, but you'd have to compare the measured rod big end width against the standard measurement. Of course, you'd be assuming that the crank would come with an acceptable cheek-to-cheek measurement on the throws.

 

Basically, if anything is out of wack, you're going to need to go to aftermarket non-cracked rods, like the Scat ones, since resizing the PM rods as far as I know is not possible or practical. Plus, if you go to the 12-point capscrew I-beam rods, you save yourself trouble (or $ if you have the machine shop do it) with cam/rod clearancing and block clearancing.

 

All things considered, I'd say toss the PM rods and get the SCAT rods, to save trouble and have a nicer rod. If that's the plan, then you can consider going to a 6" rod and matching piston. That'll help with rod/stroke ratio, but more importantly the piston side loading is better with the longer rod. The piston /rod is also lighter with the 6" setup. With these rods being at $200/set, I'd seriously consider it - unless you're on a really tight budget and the PM rods measure out o.k. and you just want to grind the bolt head/rod for cam clearance and save the $200. If you do go to the 6" rod, then Scat also has a 6" rod 383 crank, and you can then start considering buying a balanced rotating assembly and maybe saving money overall by not having to pay for balancing separately...

 

Need to have the crank and rods ballanced?? $$??

If you're piecing crank, rods, pistons together yourself, definitely. Typically that costs about $150-$200

If you buy a balanced rotating assembly, you can depend on the vendor or manufacturer doing it right, or have it checked, but there goes your savings. If you buy the rotatiing assembly, make sure you follow their specs on what flywheel/flexplate and harmonic damper. Better yet buy a rotating assembly that has those parts included if you need them anyway.

 

Pistons KB HYPEREUTECTIC

UEM-KB135030-8 $251 for the .030 D-Dished pistons

 

Or if you go to 6" rods:

Pistons KB HYPEREUTECTIC

UEM-KB164030-8

http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&part=UEM-KB164030-8&N=120+4294925232+4294922410+308250

 

Note that the compression height is listed as 1.130. That means that for a zero deck, you'd have a stack up of (3.75/2)+(6.000")+(1.130") = 9.005, so you'd want the block decked to 9.005" crank CL to deck.

 

Cam

COMP XR276HR Roller, should I find a complete timing kit with this cam? There was 3 versions listed on Summit, not sure what the dif is, all listed for SBC

CCA-08-423-8

CCA-08-503-8

CCA-12-423-8

$245 cam only, lifters, rockers, springs and timing kit another +$500?

 

The difference between the 08-503-8 and the other two cams is that it's listed as being for computer controlled GM cars (the 112 lobe center gives less overlap, allowing it to idle better with the computer.) The 08-423-8 and 12-423-8 are ground on a 110 deg lobe separation angle. "12-" at the beginning of the part number means it's for the Pre-87 blocks. "08-" at the beginning means it's for (your) 87+ block.

 

As for Kits, Comp has kits with varying additional parts. Depends on the cam. Be careful about the valve springs. The Vortec head need a spring set with an inner diameter no less than 0.900", unless the boss is machined. So you'll probably have to figure on having that done as well. Typically the spring seat ID is taken out to 1.440 from the stock 1.250. See that first article below (and the index1-4 pages below it) for more info on this.

 

BTW, don't discount Crane, Cam Motion, etc. for cam choices.

 

Heads

Vortecs I apparently paid too much for (300 set)

Valve job

mild port

machine for springs

$$??

 

Check out these:

 

Spring mods, etc.:

http://chevyhiperformance.com/howto/97458/

http://chevyhiperformance.com/howto/97458/index1.html

http://chevyhiperformance.com/howto/97458/index2.html

http://chevyhiperformance.com/howto/97458/index3.html

http://chevyhiperformance.com/howto/97458/index4.html

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0208_vort/index.html

 

Helgesen on Porting Vortec heads:

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0306_vort/index.html

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0306_vort/index1.html

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0306_vort/index2.html

 

 

CARB

still need to buy, 750? What do you think about those BG Road Demon carbs?

 

I'd be going for the latest Edelbrock Thunder AVS carb. I've just had my fill of holley type carbs I guess. But the Road Demon 750 would get you there. If you're going for a Holley type, I'd be looking at the 750cdm Speed Demon. If it's a manual trans setup, don't even bother with a vac sec setup - BTDT. Demon has an electric choke kit that you can put on the mechanical secondary carb: PN 421440 DEMON ELECTRIC CHOKE KIT

 

Distributor and Coil, I like the mallory LED Dizzy, is that ok? And is there an ultimate coil to have? I am open to opinions, wanted to keep it a smaller OD dizzy as to have room beween it and the fire wall.

 

The LED units are nice, but some have had problems with longevity. Ask around. As far as the coil goes, use whatever matches the electronics in the distributor - very important to match those. Crane has a neat adjustable digital distributor out that comes in small or large cap for the SBC (and people wonder why we play with these old pushrod boat anchors - new cool parts come out all the time!) :

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=newProduct&id=1

http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=1000-1501&lvl=4&prt=127

http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=esearch.asp&N=100&Ntk=PartSearch&Ntt=CRN-1000-1501&x=0&y=0

That's pretty impressive for $320.

 

Plugs/Wires Also could use help on these, they are not all the same and probably need to be matched to my set up right?

I like the MSD 8.5mm wires. But others are good.

http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=eproduct.asp&N=120+4294925143+4294925136+301082

 

OK, I fell like I am gettin' somwhere now I so appretiate your input and help, starting to feel like I have some direction....Now only if I had another Job to buy all this at ONCE!

 

I know what you mean!

[Mikelly]

Why don't you sell your PM rods and buy a complete balanced "Kit" from Summit or others... Don't discount ebay either... There are a TON of balanced assemblies forsale at reasonable prices.

 

Those PM rods are nice enough for lower HP ratings, but by the time you check them out, have new rod bolts installed and do any race prepping, you could get yourself a nice 6 inch H or Ibeam rod for about $379... You'd be half way there by prepping yours... Once you go into the 400HP range, longevity of internal parts needs to be seriously looked at... plan the build to build it once... Don't make the mistakes I did with my first 383.

 

Pete, Why do we want to muddy your waters... you've given excellent advice!

Mike

[BillZ260]

Pete, I think I need smaller bites!

 

Alot of stuff you can do yourself, of course, like smoting the oil passage entry in the rear main cap, clean out the threads in the block, etc. You know all that, from what I can tell.

 

I have confidence in my assembly abilities as I have built two other engines, my first was a 350 i built with ALOT of help from a freind and his dad in HS. The second was a GZ200 Isuzu that I built my self over a winter break in college. Both ran well and I did gasket match the head on the Isuzu for that little bit of extra power! I have read two of the basic books grumpy has suggested on SBC engine building and I think they give great insight and good practices on disassembly and basic build ups. But there is just an overwhelming amount of parts available and like Mike says

plan the build to build it once

so I don't want to make a mistake or have to redo this later. At this point all I really want to do is drive my damn car, which I haven't done in well over 18 months. It's hard going out to change the laundry and see it sitting there, seemingly ready to take me away!!!

 

Anyway, I was a machinist for about 7-8 years total, throught HS and college but in the last 4 years I mostly worked with CNC stuff. I am sure that I can do alot of the basic mods I guess I need to get some other books that show in detail what to do. I have ALOT more time than I do money but really, I am afraid if I don't get this at least rolling by next summer, then it will keep getting pushed of for other projects. (this year was the Den/living room remodle that I am in the middle of right now...)

 

I think I will start by cleaning out all the CRAP i have accumulated, yeah, I still have 3 small blocks in the garage(only one block is usable). I need to clean house, sell off a bunch of stuff and start looking for a complete ballanced assembly.

 

We will start from there...keep the suggestions coming!!!

 

Thanks again Pete and Mike..

[Guest Brian260ZT]

Howdy,

 

I just wanted to chime and and say this has been a great thread! Almost has me considering the sale of all my turbo parts

 

Like Pete said, it would be nice to get some different suggestions...

 

Thanks!!

 

Brian

[pparaska]

Actually, I-beam 6" capscrew rods from Scat would be PLENTY good enough and they are around $240. I totally agree this is better than having ANYTHING done to the PM rods.

 

If you've gotten the books on Grumpyvette's list, you have all you need. But don't let that limit you. Look at Grumpyvette's threads here and on Chevytalk.com, look at the tech articles at the Car Craft, Chevy High Performance, Hot Rod, and Popular Hotrodding magazine sites, etc.

[Guest probablecauZ]

i'm the new guy on the block and have looked all over the place for v8 info, suggestions for a low buck $$ reliable sbc. i just wanted to say this site is amazing you all are truly appriciated. i now have enough brain candy to keep me up all night for a few weeks. thanks again for taking your time to post all of this info. -thanx...

[BillZ260]

Pete, Mike

 

Check out this Ebay listing...

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7922756225&category=33615

 

Looks like a pretty good deal, has almost all the work finished already. Looks like I could take it in and have all the stuff checked out, have my Vortecs finished up and start building!!! Let me know what you think! This could be it

 

One note, I will need the ballancer and a flywheel for my T-5, would I have to have it all re-ballance???

[silicone boy]

I just wanted to throw in my 2cents since I have many of the components that Pete talked about for my initial 383 build, then tore the engine apart for my turbo build. I'm not an engineer, or even a knowledgable motorhead, but I grew up in an engineer houselhold and everything had to be twice as strong as it had to be. That's why I was talked into ditching the cast Scat crank for the forged one and getting forged pistons rather than the hyper Kieth Blacks. The con rods were forged Scats. Once underway on my turbo build though, someone posed a question to me: Had I ever seen a cast crank fail in real life? No, not even on monster application. Also, at the point of failure of a turbo motor, would forged pistons really be less prone to melt through than a hyper piston? Probably not significantly. We would be in catastrophic territory no matter what my rotating assembly was made of. I'm glad I have the bulletproof components, but they are not bulletproof. I just feel better about it., and I also have a quality Scat stroker assembly just sitting in my garage gathering dust.

 

I also want to add that I like Pete's rationale for blowing a 383 rather than a 350. The extra cubes make up for the lower torque that a decompressed 350 would get you, and the forced induction will make up for the lazy revving that you get with a 383.

[BillZ260]

so what did you all think about that ebay listing?? only two days left!!!