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HybridZ

Cam recomendations?


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I`m trying to decide what cam I should use for the Z. Is there some *MAGIC* formula somwhere that could help me accomplish this? I prefer a solid roller design.

 

The engine is a 383 sbc completely balanced with 10.5:1 comp, The intake is a Edelbrock Victor junior, with a 750 holly DP.

It currently has (mildly ported/matched)Dart sportsmanII heads w/ 2.02/1.65 valves, and 200cc intake runners, but I may change to aluminum pro1`s.

 

The car will be approximately 2700# with driver, and I plan to run a 200R4 trans with a 2500 or 3000(not sure) stall converter w/ lockup, and an R230 diff w/3:55 gears.

 

The car will be dual purpose, with emphasis on 1/4mi performance. I may also put a 125hp nitrous kit on for a little extra punch.

 

I`m hoping for about 450hp on the motor and about 550 w/ the bottle.

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Without flow numbers on the heads it would be guesswork, intake runner info all comes into play also, as well as header runner length and a bunch of other BS go into estimating horsepower.

 

With some headflow and intake info though good guesses can be made.

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Flow numbers unported at .500 lift, Intake 240, Exhaust 164. I`m using 1 3/4" fenderwell headers with 3 1/2" collectors. I will also be running 3 1/2" sidepipes.

 

I did find this on another web site.

Typical Application Street: 274 Cam: 230/236° .487"/.490", Dart II Sportsman #061010 dual plane intake; 750 cfm carb, 1-3/4" header. 430HP on 9.8:1 355; 480HP on 383 10.5:1 (varies with displacement and compression ratio).

 

I`m not sure who makes the cam specified though.(SH 274) Does anyone recognize the SH prefix, or who the manufacturer might be?

 

I would like to know the rpm range of this particular cam, and what the tourque curve would be.

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A 50 HP jump sounds like wishfull thinking, 355 vs 383. This will be a hydraulic flat tappet? I ran a similar cam, but in an FI, hyd roller, LT1 with better heads and made 411 RW with an ignition miss, was banking on 490+ at the crank.

 

I would say your in the right neighborhood, but I will admit I'm weak on RPM range info with flat tappet stuff. If you have the money for the bottom end work though, I might work on the heads a bit more, but it depends how picky you are I guess. I felt like it was more important to have the top end than the bottom, although the torque advantage would be in your favor.

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My bottom end is completely finished, with Steel four bolt caps, eagle rods, main studs, head studs, and steel crank. I`ve already got these heads, so all I really NEED is the cam and springs to match.

 

I`m hoping to get low to mid 10`s on the bottle. ;)

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The page I got the info from stated that it was a ROLLER cam. :confused: I`m going to call them on monday and see what`s up, and where I can get the cam they list.

I really would PREFER a roller cam. I already have the lifters so the expense wouldn`t be outragious.

 

The difference between the engines is the 383 w/ 10.5 comp,has 1.25 hp per ci, and the 355 w/ 9.8 comp has 1.2 hp per ci. That doesn`t sound too far fetched to me.

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For a max engine speed of 6500 rpm, check out the Comp 280AR Magnum solid lifter cam. I have one of these in my 355. It has probably 15k miles on it or so with no durability issues. It pushes my 3500# car to 12.7's at 110 mph ( 2.0 short time bonk.gif ), idles at 800 rpm at 12". Pulls hard from 2500-6500 rpm. 280/280 advertised, 236/236 @ .050 and .550 gross lift, I lash intake and exhaust .020, but next lash I think I'm going to tighten the intake up to .018.

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Thats kind of what I thought, usually they are 224/230, 230/236, 236/242 etc, but they should be labled XE I believe (at least for rollers). Power falls off VERY quickly if you over-rev them, so plan on sticking within the powerband that shows up on the dyno. There is argument as to how hard they may be on springs/lifters for that little bit of bottom end improvement, so keep that in mind as well.

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