ProZac Posted October 10, 2004 Share Posted October 10, 2004 Hey all i got the 350 in the datsun welded my own motor mounts up and now from the back of the intake where the distributor goes in from end of that to the firewall is i have 9" and i know theres something wrong what did i do wrong? i can see the tranny bolts easy and i can see some of the tranny kinda alot what did i do wrong thanks if anyone can help me out on this ~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted October 10, 2004 Share Posted October 10, 2004 sounds like your mounts are facing forward instead of backwards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest butlersZ Posted October 10, 2004 Share Posted October 10, 2004 Do you have any pics? 9" of firewall clearence is a lot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted October 11, 2004 Share Posted October 11, 2004 Sounds like your misstake was deciding not to buy the JTR kit.! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProZac Posted October 11, 2004 Author Share Posted October 11, 2004 No Pics i need to do some things with the cross member drop it alittle and i tihnk thats the problem!! Thanks~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted October 11, 2004 Share Posted October 11, 2004 No amount of dropping the crossmember is gonna help you. You need to heed the advice given you from others and look at the mount location. It sounds like the mounts you welded up are flipped forward, instead of backwards. Also, Keep in mind that with the proper mounts properly installed, you should have about half an inch between the distributor cap and the firewall and your harmonic balancer should be sitting directly over top of the steering rack. This means that you need a smaller harmonic balancer to start with. Good luck! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Z-rific Posted October 13, 2004 Share Posted October 13, 2004 Just did a quick measurement. I have the Hooker motor mounts (Scarab style), and the very backof my intake manifold is about 5" from the firewall, which would put the distributor shaft about 6" from the firewall. Hope this helps. And... with this setup, your engine starts to sit tall, so look into a drop base air cleaner assembly. I got one at a local speed shop for about $20. With my low profile intake, I could get a 1" carb spacer to fit and the hood just closes. (With 1" element.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProZac Posted October 13, 2004 Author Share Posted October 13, 2004 how do u get ur tranny threw the corss memember to get a 1/2 inch from ur firewall? iam using a 350 turbo?? what tranny works the best? if anyone could help thanks alot~!~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted October 13, 2004 Share Posted October 13, 2004 All the help you need http://www.jagsthatrun.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike kZ Posted October 13, 2004 Share Posted October 13, 2004 how do u get ur tranny threw the corss memember to get a 1/2 inch from ur firewall? iam using a 350 turbo?? what tranny works the best? if anyone could help thanks alot~!~ You don't use the stock tranny cross member, you either custom make one, or buy one from JTR. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 77vegasz Posted October 13, 2004 Share Posted October 13, 2004 You also have to cut the old cross member bracing out of the tunnel. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted October 13, 2004 Share Posted October 13, 2004 You really should buy the JTR manual to do this install. It is the absolute best $50 you will spend and it will walk you through what you need to move the motor back, and what needs to be done at the trans tunnel in preperation for the proper motor position. I would never dream of attempting this without it in hand... It is the HybridZ car bible, in my opinion. Mike 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nullbound Posted October 13, 2004 Share Posted October 13, 2004 this is how my engine sat with the hooker/scarab kit. if your motor is sitting farther forward than this, it's too far. this is about as far forward as you can go with the hooker kit. pay attention to what the others are saying here... buy the jtr book. even if you're making your own mounts, it's worth the read. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsommer Posted October 20, 2004 Share Posted October 20, 2004 This has GOT to be the funniest post I've read in a while ROTFLMAO!!!!! 9" from the firewall, drop the X member, where in the heck is the radiator going to fit in? How would the stock x member work anyway? NO JTR manual now that is scarry!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted October 21, 2004 Share Posted October 21, 2004 You guys are butchering this poor boy to death. Your mom's should give you all a good buttwhoopin. He's asking for help and by the sound of it he needs alot, not a kick in the teeth while he's down. When everyone came into this world they didn't know diddly about squat about converting hybrid z's, so it's a learning curve. You can learn easy or learn hard, depends on your pocketbook and how much success you will achieve. I think the idea that the members are all trying to convey is that some people (JTR) have assembled just about all you need to know about doing the conversion and this forum has supplied the necessary link were you can access that information for some good reading and knowledge. I don't think there is enough room here to accurately describe the procedure with enough detail here to help you significantly with your problem. If you could see somebody's converted car it would enlighten you greatly. There is a wealth of information available here and this group of members has done it all, twice, wrong once and right the second time, ok well maybe the third time, and they can help you avoid all the mistakes that we have all made. We are here to help, at least most are anyway. The engine should be set back as far as possible to aid in handling and significantly improves other fitment issues. If your welded mounts have resulted in to far forward of an install then try redoing them where it will set the engine back farther. Some better measurements, or a better reference point other than the back of the intake is required to do that. Try installing the distributor and measure from the back of the cap to the firewall to get a good idea of what your going to need to do. Cut the stock crossmember out and support the trans with a jack while you install the engine and trans, so you can see where the trans mount will end up, fabricate a crossmember or buy one and install that (preferred). But if your going to buy one, then buy the kit or at least the motor mounts. From there you can get the measurement for the driveshaft, and do the other million things that will need to be done. Questions that are more narrow and to the point will be received better, otherwise it's a pack of dogs mauling a cat in the name of a laugh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsommer Posted October 21, 2004 Share Posted October 21, 2004 buy the jtr book. even if you're making your own mounts, it's worth the read. There it is, I mean how and why would you attempt the install if you didn't have the book. Remember going to school and not having a book for class? It really didn't make sense to be there if you couldn't see formulas in math class or read theroies in physics. The JTR book has all the drawings and measurements of the set back plates, cross member etc. It even supplys you with part numbers for some GM parts that you WILL need. Also included are pictures of right and wrong ways to go about the install. It just seems that some people want to drop in a V-8 and go, it's not that simple. Save up $50 buy the book and you'll be light years ahead of where you are now. See if you had the book you would know about removing the X member mounts from the tunnel and what the JTR X member looks like. Post up some pics so we can see what you've done we're willing to help but you've got to be willing to help yourself too. JTR set back position Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPMS Posted October 22, 2004 Share Posted October 22, 2004 Also (and I'm not saying this to be a jerk - I'm dead serious) it helps when you use punctuation, spell out "ur" words, use meaningful subject lines and form complete sentences. People in life will often not take you seriously if you don't express yourself well, and this forum is no different. I'm not saying we're hung up on grammer - heck, some of our most respected members have "communication issues" Just do your best and you'll do okay. A further hint - don't use the "search" function on the index page, because it often doesn't work. Search within the forums, and you'll get much better results. Most of the problems you'll run into have been solved years ago by other people. I agree with the others, by the way - get the JTR book and read it several times cover to cover. They've made all the common mistakes already, and it's well worth the fifty bucks to avoid duplicating them. I'm using their crossmember mount, and it's very well built. Welcome to the group! (what's your name, anyway?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProZac Posted October 23, 2004 Author Share Posted October 23, 2004 Iam Zach, U say cut out the tranny mount How much do u cut out to fit the transmission in. Iam going to try to use a Borg Warner 5 speed or a 350 turbo but not sure got both of them the car is setup for manual. Does the Book Tell u everything need to do to install a 350? or just some things? Thanks. U guys arent hurting my feeling i just wanna know what iam doing wrong~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsommer Posted October 23, 2004 Share Posted October 23, 2004 The tranny mounts are welded to the transmission tunnel. This was one of the more challenging things of my build. They are NOT easy to remove. It helps to have an air chisle, big hammer, cold chisle and patience. Once removed and during the install you may have to clearence the tunnel with a hammer. Just give it a whack here and there no big deal. As far as what tranny to use I used the World Class T-5. Remember when using a 5 speed to get the bell housing and ALL associated parts. Clutch slave etc. Challenges in installing the T-5 plus additional costs are. Challenges: Having ALL parts Fabricating hose from the clutch master cyclinder to the slave. I had a hydrolic (sp) shop custom make mine in braided line. Shorten the clutch pedal linkage Costs: Clutch master cyclinder (Tilton 7/8") New clutch Shifter if you want something other than stock. I used a Hurst short throw billet shifter. Hose See Zach ALL of the above metioned items are in the JTR book. This site will help explain what is not coved so clearly in the book but this site is NOT a replacement FOR the book. Please order the book and you'll see what I talking about. I had my book for 2 years before I did my conversion, I kept it in the bathroom and read it over and over so I knew and understood what I was looking at when I reached that area of the conversion. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPMS Posted October 26, 2004 Share Posted October 26, 2004 Iam Zach, Hello, Zach! U say cut out the tranny mount How much do u cut out to fit the transmission in. You don't have to cut through the tunnel, you just remove the mounts. They're spot welded to the tunnel on the inside. Easiest way is with a pneumatic chisel - 5 minutes per side. The chisel cost me $9.00 at Harbor Freight. If you don't have access to compressed air, I guess you could use a cold chisel and a hammer. Be careful though - the tunnel is made of thin metal that's fairly easy to punch through. Iam going to try to use a Borg Warner 5 speed or a 350 turbo but not sure got both of them the car is setup for manual. Go for the 5-speed, if possible. It not only preserves the nature of the car (IMHO) but the TH350 isn't an overdrive tranny. With the rear end gears the Datsuns came with, that has you spinning something like 3,000 rpm at 60 mph. Fine for an MR-2, but it stinks in a hybrid Z. Does the Book Tell u everything need to do to install a 350? or just some things? It tells you 99.5% of what you need to know. My book is an earlier generation one, and it didn't say much about wiring the neutral/reverse switch. Other than that, it's pretty comprehensive. It's like a cookbook that tells you how to make a vanilla cake. After you know how to do that, you can teach yourself how to do chocolate, strawberry, fruit fillings, whatever. JTR tells you the basics of how to do the swap. Most folks on this list go beyond the basics, though. That's what HybridZ is for. Thanks. U guys arent hurting my feeling i just wanna know what iam doing wrong~ Keep that thick skin of yours, and you'll get along quite well here! The basic unwritten rule of the board is to try hard to not offend anyone, and try equally hard (if not harder) to not take offense. You're off to an excellent start! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.