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HybridZ

Floor Pan replacment -- jackstands or suspension


240hoke

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Hey guys,

 

I finally found another Z to start rebuilding after the wreck of my 260zt a couple months ago. Its a 1971 240z.

 

Anyway Ive got a good deal of rust to deal with, all in the floor boards though mostly. Ive ordered the zedd findings floor boards and am looking to put in some subframe connectors.

 

But to get to my point, i am curious if when you are replacing the floor pans/rails. Should the car be on jack stands, or on the suspension with everything else taken out?? If its supposed to be on jack stands where shuod lthey be placed?

 

Thanks

 

-Austin

 

ps chekc out website http://www.geocities.com/projectzt

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When i replaced my floors and added sub-frame conns, i pulled the wheels off and placed the Jack Stands under the front and rear x members so I had room to work. I didn't have anything else in the car, interior etc, but had no problems the the frame sagging. I have some pics posted somewhere, do a search on my posts and you will see...

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I'd support it at the front and rear of the forward frame rails, then the trans tunnel (if it's solid) and 2 spots each side for the rear subframe. I might weld in temp bracing door jam to door jam from the drivers to the pass side (3/4" square tubing or the like) if I was going to cut out the bulk of the floor all at once. It would suck to have it shift with the floor out.

 

Bad luck with the 260. Was the chassis done in by the rearend hit?

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This might sound kind of 'hack' but when I put in my subfram conectors, I suported the front of the car with jack stands just behind the T/C rod bracket, and cinder blocks/wood at the rear suspension.. I cut through the factory 'rail' under the floor (leaving the sides of it spot welded to the floor) and put my subframe up inside it using a floor jack. This also helped to 'flex' the car a bit (it was saging a little to beguin with).. Basicaly I just jacked it up till the car rocked front to back a bit, off the stands/blocks (Im talking a tiny little bit.. maybe 1/64" if that..) and welded evrything up.

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Thanks for the replies guys,

 

the 260 was actually done in by the front hit which kinked hte frame rail in 2 places. I prolly could have fixed this without too much trouble. But in addition the whole rear in is crinkled in. id hate to imagine trying to replace all the panels back there. i havnt got the car torn apart yet, but i would almost bet that the subframe is bent to hell.

 

Anyway looks like ill be doing it up on jackstands, that will make it much easier! Anywa ill let you guys know of my progress. THis is my first tryat body work and the like. Im havnt had much practice at welding either so this should be fun!

 

cheers

 

-austin

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Guest DiZeased_240

Austin, I see you live in Davidson... I'm down in Charlotte. I've got a '72 that I'm pretty much going to have to do the exact same thing to.

 

What kind of welder do you have access to? Hopefully a MIG. I've done a fair amount of metal replacement on street rods so if you think you might want a hand send me a PM. I'd be glad to help out.

 

Good luck,

Scott

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Having just done this job on my car, I'd suggest doing one side at a time. Get one panel cut out and at least tack the replacement panel in before you cut the other side. (By tack I mean every 1-2 inches.) You'll also learn some tricks while doing the first pan that you can use on the second. On mine I left about 1/2" of overlap on the edges of the panel all the way around. It's way easier to fit the replacement panel in and also way easier to do a lap weld than a butt weld.

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Ive been doing some thinking, and decided to hold back my zedd order. And I am wondering if it would be better to try and just make the floorpans out of sheetmetal since i am already going to be cutting them up for the subframe connectors. This would save me a couple hundred bucks.

 

what do you guys suggest?

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use sheet metal, way cheaper and gives you some experience at fab work. I used a skill saw w/ an abrasive blade and a sawzall to make the cuts needed. grinder to make adjustments. There are lot's of posts with pics on here including mine. Got to pete paraska's site and check out his design. That is what I did and it is stout.

 

The only thing i did different than some of the others was that I cut out the floor and ran the frame rails first, then I tied the new floors to it, instead of having one big floor panel. Not a big deal, but you have optoins...

 

If you have the tools i mentioned or can get ahold of them and a welder, then you can do your floors for about $50 or so...When I built mine i got a 24' length of 2"x3" square tube for $45 and a 4'X8' sheet of 18 ga sheet for like 35 or so. That is enough for 2 sets of frame rails and enough sheet to do all kinds of extra stuff. Steel is a bit more that it was 6-8 months ago, but still cheaper than buying a 'kit'

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