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Cheap welder?


Guest 4.3L 280z

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Guest 4.3L 280z

I'm wanting to get a welder that will work well for body panels and maybe one that would weld subframe connectors. I'll need to do a lot of practicing before I attempt anything because I've never welded before. I found some very cheap ones here

http://order.harborfreight.com/EasyAsk/harborfreight/results.jsp . I know these probably aren't the best but what do you think is the cheapest welder I could get that would do a decent job?

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I can't see what you linked to (internal server error.. ?) but I wouldn't skimp too much on a welder.. a friend of mine picked up a cheap little 110v for around $250.. but it sucks. Can't lay a bead down for longer than 2" (pops, splaters and looses power) and it's not very adjustable. (high/low heat, and 3 settings for wire speed) which makes it horible for body work, and not much good fror any heavy work.

On the other hand, I bought a Lincoln Electric 110v and LOVE it. I paid $350 USED but it was worth it. I have had no problems welding 3/16 plate to a truck frame, (it'll doo 1/4") and can get a really nice bead. Did the sub frame in my Z.. It's great for body metal too, (probly a hundred patches on my Z, and a few on my truck so far..) as it has 4 settings for heat, and infinetly adjustable wire speed. Great for exhast patches too..

Basicaly, you can buy a new CHEAP welder, and fight with it... or get a little more expencive machine and have no problems.. Maybe look around for a used one. My welder goes for about $700 new.. I couldn't afford that much, but I saw that problems my buddy had with his cheap one and didn't wana go that route.. I just lucked out and found a good one used! :lol:

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The Harbor Freight welders aren't bad at all (I have a 230V flux core unit). The only problem with them is that I was unable to find a gas set-up for mine, even though it can be used as a true MIG....I have since bought a 115V Miller with shielding gas and I can tell you that the difference is amazing.....I only will use my Harbor Freight unit for very thick steel now.....

If you can at all afford it, buy a good name brand unit....NOT Sears.....

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Yah, I forgot to mention too; My Lincoln can run gas, I just have to buy the kit/bottles. I'm thinking about it for next year (after Cri$tma$$.. you know) cause the flux core wire is more than TWICE the cost of regular wire.. the advantage though, is you can be in the4 middle of a windy driveway, and it'll still weld. With gas, the gas gets blown away very easily outside.

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Do NOT buy a cheap welder, especially from Harbor Freight. Harbor Freight is the largest importer of cheap Chinese mass produced crap.

 

Anything listed as 'Chicago' Electric is just a name to try and make you believe you're getting something built in the US when it's actually built in China so cheaply, they can still sell it for nothing after paying to have it shipped to the US. Think about it.

 

I use a Miller, but Lincoln is also a good choice. Hobart is owned by Miller and has the same build quality, but fewer options and some plastic components are used that are aluminum on the Miller.

 

If you're really hard up for cash, save your money a little longer and get a Hobart. You can get a basic Hobart flux core welder for $365 online and you can convert it to MIG for $95 later when you get the money or you can save a little longer to get the extra $45 and get the Hobart MIG for $410 and save yourself $50 in the long run.

 

In the link below, you can get a reconditioned Lincoln SP100T MIG welder from a reputable retailer for $369! This is a great starter setup and will work fine for auto-body sheet metal. The thicker stuff will take a little longer and be a little more difficult to get a good bead, but it's a good start with a 'REAL' welder.

 

http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=WD&Category_Code=MW

 

There are many Miller/Hobart and Lincoln dealers around the country that can service your welder if you get one of them. The importance of this will become apparent the first time you need to get service from Harbor Frieght if you go with that option.

 

Good Luck!

WW

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Guest 81na ZX

If you really want something inexpensive, and don't mind practicing alot, a gas outfit will do good. And it'll cut as well as weld.

 

Ofcourse, after you spend $150-300 on regulators and heads, you also have to buy gas. and keep buying gas. But if you have the skill and talent, a gas welder is the most versitile.

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In the link below' date=' you can get a reconditioned Lincoln SP100T MIG welder from a reputable retailer for $369! This is a great starter setup and will work fine for auto-body sheet metal. The thicker stuff will take a little longer and be a little more difficult to get a good bead, but it's a good start with a 'REAL' welder.

 

http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=WD&Category_Code=MW

 

[/quote']

 

Yup, thats pretty much the exaxt machine I have (says 'weld pack 100' on the side.. I guess cause it's a little newer/older or something.) and THAT is a great price!

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I got my Lincoln MIG at Lowes. They have a Lincoln Pro 135 with the gas setup for $457. I'm very pleased with the welder. I went to a local welding supply shop bought a tank and had them fill it the co2/argon mix.

 

I recently bought the Harbor Freight auto dimming welding mask for $60 on sale (I think it's on sale again till the 26th) I'm pleased with it also. It made it a lot easier to weld up the drip rails. Wish I'd gotten one earlier.

 

Hope that helps.

 

- Joe

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Guest 4.3L 280z

I might by a welder that will allow me to add gas later. Will working without the gas be a good enouph weld on something like a body panel? Thats what I really need one for right now. Buy the time I got some practice and wanted to make strut bars that would require thicker metal I would have enough to get the gas kit.

 

Thanks, Nathan

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That's the idea. You should ONLY buy a welder that will allow you to add gas later. The flux core welders are fine, but as mentioned earlier, flux core wire is twice the cost of standard wire and that'll make your practice relatively expensive. It'll work just fine on auto-body panels, but I strongly recommend you either wait until you can afford one with gas capability already installed or get one that you can inexpensively upgrade to gas later.

 

The Lincoln and the Hobart are the way to go in that regard.

 

Cheers,

WW

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Some good advice. I would plan on getting a gas set up right away. Buy it with the unit. Smoke from the flux core flat sucks. Like someone said, you need it if there is any type of breeze at all (even a shop fan). But once you factor in the extra cost of the wire, a gas set up is just as cheap. You will get cleaner welds with the gas and be able to weld stainless.

 

Harbor Freight sells gas bottles really cheap. All you need then is a factory regulator and some tubing.

 

BTW, not to dis Lincoln or Miller. Both great machines and I agree with everything said about buying quality. But I wonder what percentage of the Lincoln-Miller-Hobart machines are made with Chinese parts? Same with helmets too. An unfortunate fact of life these days. I can remember as a kid how everything had a "Made in Japan" label on the bottom. And I mean everything. Use to mean cheap junk. Now it is perceived as "quality"

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I can tell you one thing for sure......DONT BUY A STICK WELDER! I bought a stick welder from Sears for like $100. Yeah it works fine on flat stock and when your working on bench but my god what a PITA when trying to weld on a car or exhaust work.

 

I now have a "Lincoln WeldPak 100" MIG welder. It has the abiltity to covert to gas built in. I bought the extra kit to covert it to gas right away. I love it! First I used the roll of flux core wire that was supplied with it then I switched over to the solid wire. Man I will never go back to flux core wire. I love welding with gas and solid wire. Much better welds and much easier to weld thin panels with. I think I paid like $475-500ish for the welder and the coversion kit(I cant really remember?)

 

I had to cut out the rust hole in the spare tire area in my 280ZX so that I could make it my battery compartment. So once the rust spot was cut I out I welded in a new 22 gauge panel in its place. Sure made life easy with the wirefeed welder! I could have never done it with that stupid stick welder.

 

Oh and like they said dont skimp on a helmet. Just spend the money on a auto darkening helmet right away. I had a regular one and now I have an auto darkening one, all I can say is I dont know why I didnt buy one of these sooner! Makes starting a weld soooooooooooo much easier! I think I paid like $150 for my helmet.

 

 

Guy

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Please pay attention to everyone who has told you not get a cheap welder!

 

Even pro's have a hard time welding with them.

 

Don't even TRY to weld body panels with flux core - too hot and you'll burn through.

 

I myself have a Millermatic 175 that I love. Used it to build a rotisserie, now am waiting to get the misses in a good mood to get the car up on it to replace floor pans and put in subchassis connectors.

 

I made such a mess cutting and drilling when I built the rotisserie - even though I cleaned up daily she didn't like my tracking the dust sround with me - that I am having a hard time convincing her that this is a much cleaner proposition.

 

Oh well, XMAS is here and bribing and grovelling will be in order....

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I second the Miller 175 choice. Mine was a bit more costly, as it has the infinite wire speed and heat controls. So, instead of a 4 position switch, it has an adjustable knob. Nice for fine work, but not essential. A 230V welder will give you a lot better penetration and better looking welds, so if you have 230 V power where you weld, it's a good idea.

You will NEVER regret buying a good welder and learning that skill.

 

Doug

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