Jump to content
HybridZ

Solid Motor Mounting?


Synlubes

Recommended Posts

My plan is to use some box tubing (1x2 1/8" or something close) to move my engine (L6) back approx 2.5".

 

How bad will the vibration be?

Any idea`s on using something between the motor mount (from block) and the box tube to add some dampening to this type of mount.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Magnum Rockwilder

It won't be too bad. You'll feel the vibration in the steering wheel, but you'll get used to it. I've driven quite a few cars with solid mounts and I prefer them to rubber mounts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You should box the crossmember mounts and make sure the top plate is welded on all 4 sides to the top of the box. Also, under the top plate of the crossmember mount weld a 14mm nut so you can insert a 14mm bolt from the top. Once you box the crossmember mount you won't be able to get a wrench in there to tighten anything down.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ever since my days wilth aluminum tubbed solid engine mounted sports racers I am not a fan of solid engine mounts. Spent more time retightening hardware and buckin' loose rivets than you can shake a stick at. Some people get away with it, I don't do it anymore, even on my race cars. YMMV

 

Here's a trick we used on the ITS 240Z (listen up Ed!). The rules allow us a stayrod between the engine and chassis to help react torque so we don't break factory stock engine mounts. What we did was take the stock mount and saw off the stud that bolts it to the crossmember. Then back drill thru where the stud was, thru the rubber, and thru the plate on the engine side. Then we ran a bolt from the crossmember thru the entire engine mount block, and put a rubber washer and thick steel washer on the engine side of the plate, and then the nut. Make sense? We only did this on the driver's side to meet the rule for "one stayrod". This relieves the big block of rubber from tension, and maintains somewhat of a vibration absorbing system. Cheap too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

RB26DETT motors being raced here in Australia had a lot of problems with cracked blocks due to the stiff engine mounts being used. They were replacing the blocks after each event. The L series are of heavier constuction.... but unless there was a reeeeeeally good reason, I would avoid solid mounting. There are companies making engine mounts using bushes - similar concept to the outer bushes in the 'late' gearbox mounts. You can also make replacement engine mounts using polyurethane rubber kits - experiment with hardness as required...

 

See http://www.zcarworkshop.com.au/Newsite/home.html

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...