pjo046 Posted December 10, 2004 Share Posted December 10, 2004 Hi! I am going to put a 280ZXT engine and driveline into a 240Z. Will get a T3/T04E Hybrid with internal wastegate, 50 trim turbine, stage 5 exhaust wheel, 0.50A/R compressor and 0.63A/R Turbine, watercooled and with ceramic coated turbine. (This is a good choice right?) I will put 550cc injectors in it, a JSK fuel rail, a SX fuel pressure regulator and a good fuel pump.(Recomendations on the pump? A cheap and powerful one?) Also, I'll get a good clutch-package and a aluminium flywheel. Will use 280ZXT halfshafts and get C/V adapters from Modern motorsports. I have bought a three core spearco intercooler, and am going to use 2.5" tubing and a 60mm 240SX throttlebody. I have thought about to options as for the engine management: Either I can go for the microtech LT8X engine management, with a coil pack and sensors for about 1500$, or I can go for the Electromotive TEC3 engine management system with crank trigger set-up etc for about the double amount. I know the Tec3 is supposed to be better when it comes to the ignition timing, and it's easier to adjust etc. But is it really worth spending twice as much as the microtech costs? I am hoping to get 400hp at the wheels. More the T5 won't be able to handle anyway. And I want the car to run as smooth as possible on all rpms etc. So what do you recommend? And price do have much to say for me, as I am a 22 year old student. With this engine set up I am talking about, do you think I'll be able to make 400hp at the wheels without problems? Oh, by the way, the engine is a stock 1981 280ZXT engine with 51 000 miles on it. F54 block, P90 head. I'll install a 1mm steel headgasket, ARP headstuds, and port the head and intake and exhaust manifold. Will use 3" straight through exhaust. And a Greddy profec B2 boost controller. Will also get a ripper shifter for the T5. The R200 will be a 3.54:1. So do you think my goal is acheivable? What 1/4 mile times and 0-60 times am I looking at here? (The 240Z it goes into is a 1970, so it's the first and lightest version) The injectors I plan on using is Lucas injectors for the supra MK3. This has o-ring fittings. Will it be a problem to use hoses on these and attach them to my JSK fuel rail? Perhaps a lot of questions here, but I hope some of you take the time to answer them!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Afshin Posted December 10, 2004 Share Posted December 10, 2004 Welcome to the forum. The general plan for the car seems pretty good. Mid 300's on a stock motor is easilly attainable with the upgrades you suggested. 400 RWP is also achievable, but is more difficult, specially if you want to maintain long term reliability. I would rebuilt the bottom end and use forged pistons.. for that kind of goal (that is not as a one time dyno run with race gas). If you do a search you will see the topic of power on stock l28et discussed many times. Regarding fuel manageent systems you probably heard that there is no best choice, and that is true. Almost all of the will achieve the same results once properly set up. Regarding reliability after the initial set up and potential headaches at that time, most of the known companies see to be fairly equivalent. I would argue that the most important factor aside from cost is product support. If you know of a local dyno shop that is good and comfortable with setting up Haltech's, I would use that, or any other brand they like. The issue at hand is getting the right tune, if you are able to get it yourself great, but if you do get stuck (happens often enough to competent people), having a resource to troubleshoot and fix it will be priceless and ensure a good experience. I have no direct experience with these units, but have looked into any of them from what I can gather: -Motec, the best and you pay for it -SDS easiest to set up, least features. People who actually have them love them more uniformely than any other unit, I think because in the end a easy and reliable set up which in the end is more useful than unused options. They also have one of the best customer services bare none. -Haltech, very flexible, been around for a long time, a little long to get initial set up, but works great after, flexible and well priced with many people being familiar with them. -Accel new model DF gen 7 complete unit about $1600, many options, seems to be a highly competent and comprehensive unit and my personal choice in that price range -Microtech, very well priced, not to hard to set up, many options. Problem is that there customer service is terrible, so if you get one, make sure the place you are getting it from can support you (as opposed to the australia headquarters). Alex costa is a HybridZ member and a dealer for them who is supportive and knows the l28et very well, I would give him a call. Also I believe the ltx8 supports 4 ignition drivers, if you want direct ignition you will need the ltx12 unit. also it is cheaper then the price you got. -Tec 3, I know the least about the , but obviously heard that they are quite good. -Megasquirt, there is a fantastic write up by Mobythevan on it in this forum, you may have already seen it. You can get the whole set up, relay board, stimulator pre-built for under $500 (http://www.rs-autosport.com/) which will then make it relatively easy to set up as opposed to building the whole thing from scratch, getting the parts...more potential problems, delays.... the list is longer, Autronic seems quite nice,has an auto tune feature and much more, but also a litltle more costly. Wolf 3d also seems nice the 4.0 plus is full featured and the main distibutor Chris (916 648 8000) certainly seems most supportive and wanting to expand by developing a solid reputation ($1500 for full unit, $1650 with hand controller) here is a list of some of the various units and features all on one page http://www.adaptronic.com.au/comp.html Hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pjo046 Posted December 11, 2004 Author Share Posted December 11, 2004 First of all, thank you very much for your reply! The thing I forgot to mention was that here in Norway we have 98 octane unleaded available as pump-gas. I guess that should make it a bit easier to reach my goal? Also, it is actually Alex Costas I have been talking to about the Microtech. I have been to Microtech's homepage, and there I saw the same thing you commented, for standalone ignition controll, I'll need the LT12X, not the LT8X. I tried to say that to Costas, but he claimed I could use the LT8X. I don't know... As for the price, you said it should be cheaper than what he offered me? Well, that was including coilpack, all sensors needed, and a billet cover to go over the distributor instead of the distributor cap. So I guess the price seems more right knowing that? But I'll mention it to him again about me perhaps needing the LT12X if I want to run standalone ignition. Any ideas as for 0-60 and 1/4mile times with the set-up I plan for the car? For the wheels, I have bought 17x7 Konigs, and will probably go with 215/40 tires on them. I have bought Illumina strut inserts, and will get the coil-over suspension from modern motorsport. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted December 11, 2004 Share Posted December 11, 2004 The Tec3 doesn't cost $3000, thats for sure. I got mine for closer to $2000 for a 4 cylinder setup. Regardless of which system you get, if you're street tuning, you're gonna need a wideband air/fuel meter to tune it right. If you're getting it dyno tuned, I would follow his advice and go with a system that a local shop will support. Worst thing you can do is put in a system that nobody can help you with, and then you're on your own. I've seen people change engine management systems for exactly that reason before. I have my own wideband and tune my Tec3 on the street. It is an awesome system, thats for sure... and the ignition can't be beat. You have to compare the price of the EMS system, plus an ignition system that will cope with the boost you're gonna run. If these two things add up to near the cost of the Tec3, then there's your answer. (this is why I bought the Tec3 - someone explained it like that to me, I added prices and figured out it was only less than another $100 to go Electromotive) You have to keep in mind the crank trigger setup as well. I'm not sure what you will need for the Microtech and your engine... but the Tec3 will require you to build a crank trigger wheel and bracket for the sensor. This was the hardest part of installing my system. Once I completed that... the rest was wiring for two days and then tuning. My friend has a Microtech and he is very happy with it. I haven't tuned it myself... but he loves it. Haltech is a great option as well. The E6X is cheaper than $1500 and very easy to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pjo046 Posted December 11, 2004 Author Share Posted December 11, 2004 I can get the Tec 3 with all sensors, coilpack etc for 2552$ at top end performance. Then for the new Single groove pulley with trigger fabricated and mounted I have to pay 325$. So the total price for the Tec3 for my 280ZXT engine will be 2877$. Pretty close to 3000$ I'd say. Anyone knows of a place I can get it cheaper, please let me know!!! Also, top end offers me a clutch package and aluminium flywheel for 945$. I find that too expensive. Can anyone give me advice on something cheaper than this? And where do I get cheap ARP Head studs for the engine? And a 1mm steel headgasket? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted December 11, 2004 Share Posted December 11, 2004 One word of advise.... stay the hell away from that jerk, Steve Nelson, over at TOP END PERF!! If you do a search, you'll find that this guy is your worst nightmare....... he'll take lots of your money, and you'll get very little for it. This is not from hearsay either, but from my personal experince, and I know of three good friends that have been taken to the cleaners by TOP END PERF. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z-Gad Posted December 11, 2004 Share Posted December 11, 2004 1 mm gasket http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=CP&Category_Code=s30_nismo_headgasketL28 Arp bolts http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=esearch.asp&N=110&Ntk=KeywordSearch&Ntt=arp+nissan I purchased my clutch from here... http://www.ptuning.com/html/search-result.cfm?cmbCategory=transm&cmbMakeModel=280zx&cmbBrand= An aluminum flywheel is not required for your performance goals... Although it does not have all the features (datalogging) of the tec of microtech units, SDS is a nice option due to ease of tune and laptop not required. I was very happy with my unit. I believe there is a mamber on this board who can get you a 15% discount if you order through them as they are a distributor... http://www.sdsefi.com fuel pump Walbro GSL392 http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/html/ext_pump.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z-Gad Posted December 11, 2004 Share Posted December 11, 2004 Well Joel, I wasn't going to mention any Top End stories, but I am glad you did. It is good to warn the new innocent members of possible pitfalls. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pjo046 Posted December 11, 2004 Author Share Posted December 11, 2004 Can I use 6-an fittings on the fuel pump and run a 6 an line to the fuel rail? Or is this diameter to large so that the pump won't be able to flow enough gasoline? The fittings on the JSK is 6-an Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted December 11, 2004 Share Posted December 11, 2004 Can I use 6-an fittings on the fuel pump and run a 6 an line to the fuel rail? Or is this diameter to large so that the pump won't be able to flow enough gasoline? The fittings on the JSK is 6-an -6 is the smallest you'd ever want to start with for a suply line on a turbo app. I can't think of any high pressure pump that could'nt handle a -6 line.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pjo046 Posted December 11, 2004 Author Share Posted December 11, 2004 Is it this head stud kit you mean: http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=esearch.asp&N=110&Ntk=KeywordSearch&Ntt=arp+nissan ? This will fit the 280ZXT P90 head, and has everything I need included? For the clutch, I'll need the Nissan 280ZX (1979-1983 2+2 & Turbo (240mm)) - ACT Heavy Duty Clutch Kit w/ Performance Organic Street Disc (Torque Capacity 400 ft.lbs.) right? Since I will only drive this car on the streets this will be best? Are you sure I shouldn't go for a aluminium flywheel? Won't I gain much by doing that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pjo046 Posted December 11, 2004 Author Share Posted December 11, 2004 The link for summit was supposed to show the ARP-202-4206 Cylinder Head Studs, 12-Point Nuts, Nissan, 2.4L/2.6L/2.8L, Kit $124.69 This is the one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted December 11, 2004 Share Posted December 11, 2004 The link for summit was supposed to show the ARP-202-4206 Cylinder Head Studs, 12-Point Nuts, Nissan, 2.4L/2.6L/2.8L, Kit $124.69 This is the one? According to Arp, It looks like the 4206 kit is the correct one. On the fuel line, as Joel mentioned, -6 is a small as you will want to go. Also, I would recommend running -6 aluminum hard lines for the long run from the pump to the engine bay, then use shorter -6 flexible lines to connect to the hard lines at either end. This will be more reliable and far cheaper in the end than running a long length of -6 braided line. Finally, on the damper for use with the TEC3 - the one that TEP offers is a modified stock piece, and these have a reputation for failing with extended high rpm use. There is a company called BHJ that makes a real damper for the L-series, and it can be had with an Electromotive crank trigger - here are some pics of mine: ...as I recall this cost ~$400US with the trigger wheel installed. You'll still need to fab a mount for the pickup, but the trigger wheel is the hard part, and this is a far, far better steup than the TEP thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjfawke Posted December 12, 2004 Share Posted December 12, 2004 Ahhhhh... Australia. Land of Motec, Haltech, Autronic, EMS, Microtech, Wolf.... FWIW, Autronic and Motec are the top two. Motec seems to have taken over the top slot in motor racing, but Autronic seems to be the unit of choice for forest rallying. Based on price, I'd go Autronic, but from reading the manual it is harder to set up (lots of tuning options). Haltech is for street... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supra510 Posted December 13, 2004 Share Posted December 13, 2004 I would echo what has been said of TEP. Long delays, then when I received my trigger wheel mounted on a stock pulley it was in the wrong place so the teeth did not line up in the correct place with respect to the sensor. I had to drill and retap the pulley so that everything would line up. I'll leave it at that but needless to say I would not purchase anything from them. I have purchased all subsequent Electramotive stuff from these guys http://www.lola332.com/ They specialize in Pantera's but have been really helpful with any questions and ship right away. I think one of them used to own a 280zx Turbo. Also you might look into http://www.sdsefi.com Really user friendly and good service. I had an issue with a unit I bought in 1997 (turned out it was not the unit) and they upgraded it free to a newer version. Hard to beat that. Anthony '71 510 wagon, '91 Toyota Supra Turbo engine (357 rwhp) http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/674663 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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