violacleff Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 Well after having gone 5 all nighters trying to wire the zxt/z31ecu with no success, I've decided to sell off all my electronics and just wait till I can afford a haltech. I think the problem is that I bought the harness from someone who supposedly had already modified the harness for the Z31 ecu and Maf. I also paid someone who had done it before, to come down from LA and finish wiring it for me. Since I didn't start from stock, I have no idea how to trouble shoot this thing to figure out why it won't start. I figure if I bouhgt a stand alone, at least I'll know that everything is supposed to work and I can get product support. Anyhow I found a dealer that sells the Haltech e6x for $1250 that includes everything to get running and tune. This is the best deal I've found so far. Does anyone know of a better deal? Also anyone know of any dealers that do credit? I've never heard of it before but I know that stores finance desktops and laptops, why not ecu's? Well if anyone is smarter than me and needs a wiring harness for this setup, let me know. Alex Costa, how is this price compared to yours for the haltech? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yo2001 Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 Have you got the power to the ECU? if you have the power to ECU, you can use self diagnosis on the ECU to find what's wrong with it. I got a FSM still here if you need a info how to do the diagnos, PM me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Afshin Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 Hi, do have any idea why it won't start, in other words are you not getting spark, fuel...is the ecu light on? is the fuel pump turning on.....? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
violacleff Posted December 16, 2004 Author Share Posted December 16, 2004 The fuel pump is turning on. I have plenty of fuel pressure, but I'm getting no spark. I checked the firing order, and tried turning the dizzy while the ignition was turning but it wont fire. I am not getting spark from either the dizzy or the coil. One of the wires that comes from the ignition module to the ecu was out, and we figured that was the problem. So I purchased a z31 chilton manual and as luck would have it, it had the wiring diagrams for everything but the ecu. I have a scan of a diagram a friend sent me but it is not clear as to the exact pin that it goes into. I was pretty sure that it was 5th slot but it didn't fire when I tried. As far as the ECU is concerned, I'm not sure how I would even know whether or not it even worked. I don't remember there even being a light on my ecu. If there is, it sure didn't light up. I'm going to go check it out right now. Yo2001, whats an FSM? factory service manual? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Afshin Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 pin 5 is indeed a ignition signal. Do you have pin 34 out of the ecu (the slot is empty in the original 280zx harness, you have to put a pin in ) getting positive power from the positive coil end as I wrote in the now lost "sticky" . You can actually just provide positive power to pin 34 on the ecu from any source. If this was not done, the car will not get spark and hence won't start. Let me know. If that is not the problem, make sure you check the ecu error code (it's described in the manual) as yo2001 suggested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrayZee Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 I am also wondering.. you said that the fuel pump works. If you turn the ignition on but do not turn it to start does the fuel pump come on and then stop after a few seconds? If it does not turn off after a few seconds then the fuel pump relay is not wired up properly. Of course you will still get fuel, but the reason I am asking is that if the fuel pump turns on and off on it's own then the ecu is doing it's job and is therefore likely in good working order. Another thing, if you unplug the ecu and look very closely at the 3 plugs you will see that the pinouts have numbers stamped on them. Like Afshin said, pin #5 is the ignition trigger. Connect a ohm meter lead to that pin and the other other lead to the ignition trigger at the coil (you'll likely need a jumper wire to have enough length) You should have continuity between the two points, if not, that's likely your problem. Good luck, and don't give up yet! It's very likely something VERY simple like a bad connection somewhere. I don't have a copy of the pinout #'s but maybe someone can chime in and list one for Violacleff? I found one online but it's for a 84zx NA, http://z31.com/oboard/archives/view.pl?160 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
violacleff Posted December 16, 2004 Author Share Posted December 16, 2004 Thanks for the replies. Actually my fuel pump would start up as soon as the battery was connected and would not turn off after I shut the car off. I tried to get some info on how to properly wire the relay and pump in earlier post but could not get any good answers so I setup the fuel pump on a kill switch to fix that problem. I will check out those suggestions you gave me Afshin. I hope I can figure this out. Thanks a lot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 Yes, this sounds like no ECU signal to the ignition transistor. If you have a fuel pump and pressure, you are very close. You need ignition input to the ECU from the CAS unit, with that, it will shoot a signal to the coil ignitor (transistor) that gates the coil to ground. Once you get an ignition pulse, the ECU will start pulsing the injectors, and you will run. You are so very close. So very, very close. Make this work before you try standalone. The stock system is actually pretty easy to get into a car compared to the work involved in setting up the standalone which may or may not use your sensors you already have... Megasquirt is always an option, it will work with the L28 CAS unit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yo2001 Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 Z31 ECU gets 12V and ground constant when the key is on. The ECU signal will trigger the ignitorbox to create high amp pulse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike kZ Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 getting positive power from the positive coil end as I wrote in the now lost "sticky" . Afshin, what was the title to the lost post? I can find it and re-sticky it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Afshin Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 The title of the post is: Z31/300zx ECU/MAF to 280ZXT swap guide I will also reload some of the pictures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike kZ Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 The title of the post is:Z31/300zx ECU/MAF to 280ZXT swap guide I will also reload some of the pictures Sticky Done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stinky Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 I'd try plugging at it a little longer. Keep in mind that you will have to do the same thing with the haltech. I just went through the same task myself. I had a little extra fun because the car I did it to was an NA which has different wiring than the turbo. I would suggest starting with the most important thing, the CAS. You said you were'nt getting any spark but I didnt see if you mentioned getting the injectors to fire. When you manually turn the CAS do you hear them clicking? If thats working then its just a matter of getting the coil wires right and figuring out what went wrong with the fuel pump. Also, if you need the FSM for the z31 you can download a few at the following address thanks to THE BIG ONE from z31.com. http://tboz.no-ip.com:10000/images/Nissan%20300ZX%20FSM%20%5b84-86%5d/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrayZee Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 Thanks for the replies. Actually my fuel pump would start up as soon as the battery was connected and would not turn off after I shut the car off. I tried to get some info on how to properly wire the relay and pump in earlier post but could not get any good answers so I setup the fuel pump on a kill switch to fix that problem. I will check out those suggestions you gave me Afshin. I hope I can figure this out. Thanks a lot Violacleff, I explained to Bastaad525 how to wire up a fuel pump relay a while back. I think I even sent you the link for it. Did you read it? Or perhaps you just didn't understand it? Here it is again. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=96479&page=1&pp=10 the info is in post #12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
violacleff Posted December 29, 2004 Author Share Posted December 29, 2004 So I decided to trace the wires to make sure it was hooked up correctly. Here are the wires in question according to an online link given to me for the 88 Z31 (though mine's an 87). 1. Pin#9 (which is ignition switch) is hooked up to the harness but cut off. 2. Pin#15 is missing. Is this necessary and if so where does it go? 3. Pin#16 is supposedly supposed to go to the air regulator but is going to the green relay (that goes with the fusible link). 4. Theres a small harness that is not hooked up to anything that has five wires leading into it. Wire #1 is w/y which goes to pin #6. Wire #2 is b/w which is crimped up with 3 other wires, one of which goes to the cas, the other goes to pin #35 and the last goes to pin#27. Wire#3 is L/B which splits into two, one of which goes to pin#18 and the other goes to TVS. Wire#4 is y. It's cut off and leads nowhere. Wire#5 is B, and is also cut off leading nowhere. 5. Pin#21, 22, and 23 are cut off and not being used. 6. What does CHTS stand for? 7. Pin#28 goes to #36 (as it should) but also splits into another wire thats not being used. 8. Pin#29 is cut off and not used. 9. Pin#115 has no wire to the harness. Is there anything here that needs to be corrected? And could anyone answere some of the questions? Thanks. OK and while I have all of your attention. I have read mixed opinions on the site regarding using a piggy back for bigger injectors. The person who sold me the harness also sold me the greddy E-manage with/ optional ignition harness with the wiring already modified for it. He said it should be good for running up to 21 lbs of boost. I only plan to run 15lbs-18lbs on the street. Is the piggy back idea bad? I've seen the E-manage on high boost engines, but one member advised that it was a bad idea. Any other thoughts on this? I'm running RC500cc injectors, and T4 turbo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stinky Posted December 29, 2004 Share Posted December 29, 2004 Pin 9- is the start signal. Might not be a bad idea to hook it up for better starts. Pin 15- dont think you need it. pin 16- fuel temp..dont need it pin 21 - knock sensor. dont need it pin 22- ac condensor - probably used to kick in high idle - dont really need it pin 23- CHTS (cylinder head temp sensor) you NEED this one pin 29- speed sensor. use it if you have the right speedo and want the afm clean function to work pin 115- heater power source for NA o2 sensor. Not used on the turbo ecu. If the E-manage has some way to modify the timing then it might work. The problem with most piggyback systems is that they alter the afm signal to the ecu. That in turn changes where the ecu goes on the fuel and timing maps. It's great because you can adjust for larger injectors but it sucks in that your timing is way off from stock and you ahve to somehow compensate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 260ondubs Posted December 30, 2004 Share Posted December 30, 2004 I got my E6X for $AUS2170 (you can do the exchange rate) including the electronic boost control and MAP sensor. Install and wire will be more on top. They are made in Australia so I figure it must be cheaper over here.... Oh, and of course we are tlaking a brand-new ECU, not second-hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
violacleff Posted December 30, 2004 Author Share Posted December 30, 2004 I'm leaning towards that, although that will be another x amount of months before I can get my car runnning. While I'm saving up for a haltech though, perhaps I can get some stock injectors from the junk yard and run stock boost. Will it make any difference that I'm using a larger turbo (T4)? If not, I should be able to safely run up to 10 psi before running out of fuel right? I have found a dealer that has the e6x for 1250 for everything. Too bad noone does credit or finance like they do for stereos and rims. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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