EvilC Posted December 31, 2004 Share Posted December 31, 2004 http://www.geocities.com/evilc76/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted December 31, 2004 Author Share Posted December 31, 2004 http://www.geocities.com/evilc76/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTenneZ Posted December 31, 2004 Share Posted December 31, 2004 I can sympathize with you... http://www.mtsu.edu/~mdt2a/Datsun3.html As of this point I am still going to try to fix it as crazy as that sounds. It depends on your skill with a welder and fabrication, mine is limited but quickly expanding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auxilary Posted December 31, 2004 Share Posted December 31, 2004 easy solution: get a west coast Z more difficult solution: cut, weld, replace, coat with POR 15. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted December 31, 2004 Share Posted December 31, 2004 Damn!! That is pretty bad...I would start with another chassis, unless you have all the tools (welder, chop saw, grinders etc) and lots of time and patience. Depending on where you are it may be cheaper and easier to start with a better car. I have a line on a 72 orginal condition (uncracked dash etc etc) with next to no rust (some superficial stuff)....$2500 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Magnum Rockwilder Posted December 31, 2004 Share Posted December 31, 2004 My '72 was in similar shape, and it just headed off to the salvage yard to be crushed yesterday morning. I bought a rust free '71 to replace it, and I'm STILL replacing the floors and frame rails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zfan Posted December 31, 2004 Share Posted December 31, 2004 No pics?????????? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelman Posted December 31, 2004 Share Posted December 31, 2004 Wlecome to the board. Wow, looks like those frame rails are gone. I had(have) quite a bit of rust repair to do on my 240 and have grown to hate it. Once it's done its such a relief. Good luck with that. Search on this site and you'll find lots of info on how to repair/replace those. Wheelman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsunlover Posted December 31, 2004 Share Posted December 31, 2004 Meh.. I'd fix it.. it's salvageable. Mine was almost as bad.. got lucky and picked it up AFTER a shop had replaced the floor pans/rails... well, 'lucky' in that they were.. there.. I still had to finish the job.. If you CAN find a better shell, sure why not? (dont know your location.. if it's like mine, you get what you can...) But anything can be fixed.. and the outer body shell doesnt look too bad.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted December 31, 2004 Author Share Posted December 31, 2004 Well guys to be honest with ya, for the past two weeks 75% of you has told me to start off with a better, cleaner, rust free chassis. I can see why I should but the problem is I do not have $2000 to spend on a shell...this is due to the fast I am still a college student. If it wasnt for those books I probably could buy 5 Z's.=) After doing some research here I am guessing that it wouls cost somewhere around $1200 in material plus time. So now I am thinking....If I was to buy a rust free shell....what then would have to be done for the chassis to be able to handle the LS1 swap? A little side note is that I am located in NY so snow and salt is always a factor in finding a car. Once again I gotta say thanks for all the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted December 31, 2004 Author Share Posted December 31, 2004 Well guys to be honest with ya, for the past two weeks 75% of you has told me to start off with a better, cleaner, rust free chassis. I can see why I should but the problem is I do not have $2000 to spend on a shell...this is due to the fast I am still a college student. If it wasnt for those books I probably could buy 5 Z's.=) After doing some research here I am guessing that it wouls cost somewhere around $1200 in material plus time. So now I am thinking....If I was to buy a rust free shell....what then would have to be done for the chassis to be able to handle the LS1 swap? A little side note is that I am located in NY so snow and salt is always a factor in finding a car. Once again I gotta say thanks for all the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted January 1, 2005 Share Posted January 1, 2005 two seperate (identical) threads merged... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waynekarnes Posted January 1, 2005 Share Posted January 1, 2005 that's a lot of rust, sorry to see that. i have to agree with the start over with a better body crowd. if you are a fabricator, anything can be done, but i think you'll be hours and hours into this project, money and time better spent on a cleaner body. as has been suggested anything can be saved if one has the time and money not to rub salt in the wounds ... here's some california z cars advertised on local craigslist ... give you an idea of what you might be able to start with, instead of repairing what you have ... if you rent a truck and trailer here .. might be cheaper to fly out on one of those $99 deals buy one of these and tow it back ... i understand there are carriers that will transport from here to east coast for under a grand. good luck with what ever you decide ... Reply to: hotnickels43@hotmail.com Date: 2004-12-21, 3:12PM PST sellng my 71 240z....lime green, with black leather interior...was running but has tranny problem and will not run...engine starts though...maby needs clutch or something...no time to work on it any more...need very little body work...all original paint...floor pans and rails are rust free..only a few rust spots but just surface...nothing bad...has tokikio ilumina shocks...would be a great project car for someone, but im going back to school and just dont have the time to mess with it...$1600 firm... 280Z - 1978 Datsun - $300 (santa rosa) Reply to: see below Date: 2004-12-30, 9:48AM PST Z-CAR LOVERS' DREAM! Great project car! Old engine w/SU carbs has been removed (blown headgasket) & new fuel-injected engine w/4 speed tranny (included) ready to go in. Extra rear end, old engine w/SU carbs & five speed tranny, and many, many parts included! SU Carbs & manifold alone are worth the price! Sorry, no pics available. Serious inquiries only, please! Help us clean out our yard! 707-588-9926 Datsun 280z for free - $1 (san jose east) Reply to: anon-54041875@craigslist.org Date: 2004-12-31, 9:40PM PST I'm giving away my Datsun 280z that i try to sell. First come will get the car. Please call me to pick up the car. You will need to tow it home or if you have the Massive air flow meter you can put it on and drive home. Car have 2005 tags. So no worry about late fee. Call me at 408-375-7383 do not ask me stupid question. datsun 1977 280z - $600 (emeryville) Reply to: greypinoy@yahoo.com Date: 2004-12-26, 10:16PM PST primered black datsun.. used to be brown.. has all the brown interior.. good dash. no carpet. major tune up cap/rotor/plugs/wires. new alternator with new belt. no front or rear bumper but still have them lying around. do not have smog papers but will pass smog.. you pay because so cheap.. drop price from 1000 to 600.. must sell asap.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted January 1, 2005 Author Share Posted January 1, 2005 WoW I wish some of those rust free cars were on my side of the country for those prices. So I think I am about 80% sure now that I will just wait for a better car and hopefully if one comes about in my area I will have enough money to get it. I am searching day and night, hours on the internet looking for my own rust free shell. Only with about 2 weeks left until I head back to school and face another long semester of work, I will be on the hunt for this car......even tho I know it prob will take months to find =( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savageskaterkid Posted January 1, 2005 Share Posted January 1, 2005 your best bet isn't to look in your area, if u have the occasional snow storm in the winter-theres gonna b alot of salt to go with it-no matter how rust free sum1 there says it is, theres still gonna b frame rust. You should look in maryland and south from there, cuz there isn't much salt in the winter-cuz its not as bad as NY weather. I got my car for 200, it was sittin under a tree for 2 yrs, i looked underneath, i have a very small amount of SURFACE RUST, thats it, and the batterbox thing was rusted-but thats no big deal. If you can find a cheap one down south, u could fly here cheap, and then drive the car home-hopefully When i got mine, it didn't run, i put sum money into it- it was probly too much for the jobs that were done. But now it fires rite up, and now that i no wht it feels like driving it, i can garentee myself that its gonna make the 2000+ mile roadtrip to FL this spring-if i dont get the LT1 first, but that mite take a bit longer to put in than i wanna wait for. The best thing you could do is find a cheap car down south, i'll help u find a good shell, then fly down here for as cheap as possible, and drive it back, or tow it back on a flatbed. Im not sure if u wanna spend all that time/money on a car-but i can garentee that its gonna b a better shell than ones that they have in NY. PM me if u want me to look, btw, i live near richmond, va Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPMS Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 To be bluntly honest with you, 75% of us are telling you to get a better chassis because the one you have is pretty bad. You're thinking of doubling (or tripling) the factory horsepower in a chassis which has maybe half the strength of what it used to have. That's a REALLY bad idea. Before you decide one way or the other, I'd suggest that you remove all the undercoating, matting, and sound deadening inside and outside the floorpan, transmission tunnel, frame rails, firewall, and wheelwells. You'll have to do that eventually anyway to do your repairs, so you might as well do it now. Once you have the metal exposed, you can get a better idea of what you have to work with. I'd be willing to bet that there's a lot more rust hiding on your car that you don't know about yet. Take a look at MtenneZ's link to see where rust commonly hides on these cars. If your Z is anything like mine was, the metal that's left on the floorpans is paper thin after years of corrosion. It looked solid, but I could push a screwdriver right through it. I welded in new floorpans and partial frame rails, and now it's fairly solid. The rust that's left on the car is in non-structural locations, and I've treated it so it's not getting any worse (I hope). Your car looks really nice on the inside and the body looks pretty good. But your salty roads up there, combined with the minimal rustproofing these cars came with, just about guarantees that you've got a bigger problem on your hands than you know about. I hope I'm wrong, by the way. Good luck, and be sure to keep us informed as to your progress! It's always good to hear about cars that have recovered from the "tin worm". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted January 6, 2005 Author Share Posted January 6, 2005 OK OK OK OK. I have now put my car up for sale. It is located in NYC. Make an offer. Car runs and drives. I am just going to wait and find a better car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted January 25, 2005 Author Share Posted January 25, 2005 Car was sold guys...... now the search for a rust-free 240z starts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nullbound Posted January 25, 2005 Share Posted January 25, 2005 rust-free 240z = urban legend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waynekarnes Posted January 25, 2005 Share Posted January 25, 2005 i think 99% of the 240z cars started rusting on the boat ride from japan. the salt and slush, the bad water drainage, leaky weatherstripping, didn't help things either. what you want is one that is at least 80% rust free ... fenders and such are repairable ... need to watch out for frame rails and major rust in the basic shell, again, think of the body as an egg shell with doors, front fenders, hatch ect. hanging off the shell. as long as the shell is safe or can be made safe all is fine. do your hunting in the south ... a friend of mine in ga. has a nice 73 turbo for sale, has normal rust bubbles ... structure is sound ... before i bought the 88 fiero Gt for my son, we talked about me buying it, he was looking for a 300zx twin turbo ... he'd drive out here, buy a TT and drive that back. not a sales plug, just expressing a thought ... if you can't go west, go south. good luck with the hunt ... you'll be happy that you started with a good shell, spend that extra money on fun stuff, not fixing rust ... here's what's on craiglist in the san jose bay area today ... Front Mounted Intercooler - $500 (dublin / pleasanton / livermore) Jan-23 1977 datsun 1/4 glass 1 pair - $30 (san jose east) Jan-23 1977 datsun 280z tail lights - $30 (san jose east) Jan-23 1977 datsun 280z rear bumper - $20 (san jose east) Jan-23 1977datsun doors - $30 (san jose east) Jan-23 Datsun 240Z *pictures* - $5900 (Cotati) Jan-22 NISSAN 240Z - $800 (gilroy, south county) pic Jan-21 73 Datsun 240z - FOR SALE - $5500 (redwood city) pic Jan-21 SOLD--Datsun 510 240z 260z 280z 280zx Toyota AE86 GTS *RIMS* - $120 (Daly City) pic Jan-21 1973 datsun 240z - $1000 (san jose east) Jan-21 Datsun 240Z/260/280Z 4 speed tranny. Good working - $50 (fremont / union city) Jan-20 72 240Z White/Red - $2750 (san jose west) pic Jan-20 2 early Datsun 240Z hubcaps (san jose south) pic Jan-20 JDM RS-Watanabe RS-8 Wheels W/Tires **RARE** - $1100 (san jose downtown) pic Jan-20 datsun nissan 240z rear bumper complete good condition - $125 (oakland piedmont / montclair) pic Jan-20 1973 Datsun 240Z for SALE! Great Condition! - $3000 (fremont / union city) Jan-20 1972 euro racing spec TRIUMPG STAG 4 seat convertible - $6000 (north beach / telegraph hill) pic Jan-19 240z datsun 240 z air cleaner, see pics - $20 (pittsburg / antioch) Jan-19 1998 mazada B3000 truck for trade or sale (pittsburg / antioch) Jan-19 Wanted: Datsun 240z 260z 280z - $1000 (santa cruz) pic Jan-18 1973 DATSUN 240Z INTAKE & EXHAUST - $250 (west portal / forest hill) Jan-17 Nissan 240Z manual transmission - $400 (sunnyvale) Jan-17 71 datsun 240z seats and more - $175 (santa cruz) Jan-17 Datsun 240Z 14x6 0 offset oem slotted mags rims PICS<------- - $200 (daly city) pic Jan-16 240sx for sell/trade - $3000 Jan-16 1973 Datsun 240z ---no eng/trans--- - $1000 (sunnyvale) Jan-15 WTB datsun nissan l28 2.8 liter strait 6 or ld28 and passenger door Jan-15 1971 Datsun 240Z see pic - $5000 (sunnyvale) pic Jan-14 240Z 280Z fender Datsun Nissan - $80 (concord / pleasant hill / martinez) Jan-14 Datsun Nissan 240z, 280Z dashboard - $60 (concord / pleasant hill / martinez) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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