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[fredtam]

Normally I am the first to yell "SEARCH" on other forums including my own. However this is slightly out of my comfort zone (electronics, mechanical, car computer(MP3, DVD Navigation. etc)).

 

I frequently browse these forums (long time Z fan) and I am awestruck by the amount of knowledge and craftsmanship presented here and at the same time disappointed by the lack of a FAQs which could lay to rest many n00b questions.

 

OK enough bitchin'.... on to the meat of the problem (cause I really do hate vegetables).

 

Within the next 24-48 hours the current plan is to buy a '78Z. I have seen a few arguements against buying a later model Z but the arguements are lacking consensus. Is there any truly viable reason against purchasing this car (78Z)? It is destined to be a V8 conversion (I have the Edelbrock crate engine sitting here although it was meant to go elsewehere).

 

I lack the artistic vision that many of you seem to have and display confidently so a few questions on that aspect are in order:

 

1: Seats: The interior is shot. Are there any experience based seat recommendations? MSA Corbeau offerings? Looking like TRS..gray right now.

 

2. Fender flares. I like the look but which ones are easily blended? Also how wide of a tire/rim setup can be used without going to a 5 lug setup/ different rear/ coilovers and still look OK with flares? Recommendations?

 

3. Air dam/ ground effects. I have seen many different setups that look great. Is there a "database" which shows the different dams (MSA, etc.) ?

Forum member pics without searching through profiles/ galleries?

 

4. Carpet: Suggestions on vendors? Molded/ piece?

 

5. Dash: Of course it has cracks. Is a dash cap the best option or are there reasonably priced dash restoration vendors?

 

 

OK before the "wrong forum" gods chime in like I said this will be a V8 conversion and I have a few questions on that aspect:

 

1. The polished version of this engine (bought from a friend) is sitting in my storage shed . Should I anticipate any hood clearance problems.? (sh!t...linky no worky... Performer 9.0:1../320hp) Again although I am a Z fan I am not really familiar with the dimensions of the car when it comes to a V8 conversion (Just ordered the JTR manual).

 

2. I am a fan of the "KISS" philosophy (12 volts and fuel) but are there any real arguements other than weight to go with an LS1? I am no stranger to fabrication so I doubt fitting one would be a problem but I currently don't see any real advantages other than weight and EFI which really don't concern me.

 

3. Bracing: Are there any structual enhancements I should expect to make to accomadate the heavier engine and 320hp?

 

4. Coilovers for street use? Yay or nay?

 

5. Lastly this is an Aotomatic Z. Given my current engine choice what would be the best tranny choice and what mods should I expect whether that choice be an auto or manual?

 

Thanks again for your time,

 

FT

[jaime240z]

I have seen a few arguements against buying a later model Z but the arguements are lacking consensus. Is there any truly viable reason against purchasing this car (78Z)? It is destined to be a V8 conversion (I have the Edelbrock crate engine sitting here although it was meant to go elsewehere).

 

I would mainly say SMOG if you plan on staying street legal.

[Mikelly]

ON the question of seats, I'd go directly to a vendor of seats... MSA is Stupid expensive with their prices...

 

On the issue of flares, I'd NOT use the MSA flares, as they were one full inch different in size from the right side to the left side on my last Z and it was absolutely in the mold and NOT the body work... Others here have reported similar experiences... You can get GOOD flares CHEAP from a company named MAS (Look in hotrod, Carcraft or others in their ad section), a company that sells a lot of muscle car glass and for some strange reason has a LOT of Zcar stuff to boot!

 

Spoilers, I've had several of those from MSA and they seem like good quality parts... Go figure... Get what suits your needs and works with the flares from either MSA, Victoria Brittish, or Airzona Zcar, or go Crazy and a get a cool custom kit from John at Reaction Research!

 

I'd add subframe connectors to ANY car you plan to build with a V8. The torque alone hammers the factory rails and floor pans and causes the unibody to twist...Remember, this car was engineered to withstand about 150# torque and 135 WHEEL HP. You're adding significantly more.

 

As to WHY not to use a 78, well it depends on where you live and emissions.

 

As to the tranny... If you stay automatic, I'd use a nice custom 700R4 from one of the online vendors... You can get a custom setup that will be way strong, have an overdrive for fuel and highway cruising, and still be strong enough to hammer!

 

Now for the sarcasem! READ READ READ READ READ! Hahahahahaha!

Good luck!

Mike

[Pop N Wood]

78 vs. earlier has been discussed in great detail. Quite a few members actually believe the 78 is a better choice for a V8 than say a 240. Biggest item is minimize rust. Low rust 280's are generally cheaper and do have better (albeit maybe not adequate) chassis stiffening. They are also less likely to have the dreaded exhaust fume issue of the 240's.

 

As for seats, look into a junk yard swap of factory seats. Miata seats are very popular for a Z. There are quite a few others if you "read read read".

 

Coil overs on the street? Another topic with a lot of opinions. Not absolutely necessary IF you can find the spring rates you want. Coil overs give you many more choices in spring rates, allow you to more easily adjust your ride height and can give you more clearance to allow running a slightly wider tire. If your are not going hard core on spring rates than MSA or VB both have good stock compatible springs.

 

Dash: good luck. I have heard of new dashes going for upwards of $1000. There is one thread about a carbon fiber dash, but it was labeled "race only". Not sure why. Other than that dash caps are the only real cost effective way to retain a stock appearance.

 

LS1: can't believe you have looked at too many threads! A LOT of opinions here. Quite a few members swear by this engine for a Z. The advantages are many and the only real disadvantages might be cost. I personally prefer the looks of the older engines and OBDII smog restictions can be an issue depending on where you live and how legal you want to be. Go back and read some of Phantom's and Mike Kelly's posts about the HP potential and driving manners of the engine. Also wasn't it MAS280 who dropped his quarter mile time significantly when he swapped his LT1 for an LS1?

 

As for air dams and spoilers, totally a matter of personal preference. I would start looking at member's websites. Most guys don't mind bragging about where they got their stuff.

[deMideon]

Well I would definatley say go with a 280. The only reason not to is like Mike said, emissions. Make sure you research that very well! I have had both a '73 240 and a 280. The 280 has a significant amount of additional and thicker / larger bracing. You still should add the sub-frame connectors no matter what you use since that is a weak point. I like a very stiff car, so I went very extreme in how I added bracing (take a look at my pictures in my sig!)

 

A lot of your questions really come down to what is it that you want and what will you be doing with the car...

 

For seats, it depends how tall you are and what you like. I am 6'3" and so am very limited in what I can use. Many of the seats mentioned on the board add a few inches and would make my head brush the roof. I finally found what I believe are seats from a 240sx that bolted in well and added maybe a 1/2". It took a lot of measuring on my part to find what worked for me.

 

As far as air dams, again depends what you are doing and what look you want. I wanted a fully functional air dam. That requiers modification of ANY of the dams I have seen sold. The urathane flex at high speed so they need bracing, and all of them require a shroud to be built so air coming over it doesn't go under the radiator.

 

I had a dash cap in my 240 and I thought it looked great. The only people that noticed were really knowledgeable Z people. Nobody else could tell. It much cheaper and removing the dash sucks! Although I will say if you remove the dash, replace as much of the heater hoses etc.. as you can.

 

Heh... well that's my cent and a half!

[pparaska]

I like the 240Z as a starting point (better looking to start with (MO), lighter to start with, etc.). Plus electrically it's simpler. But it's just a preference.

 

Air dam. I use the Xenon X3124 urethane one. You WILL crack a fiberglass one sooner or later. I used a 1.5"x1.5"x1/8"thick piece of angle aluminum bolted under the horizontal middle section with 9 screws to keep it from flexing. Work's fairly well.

 

I like the old SBC, but mostly because of the price and availability of things. But as someone wrote in one of the magazines lately, it's about 1963 in terms of the LS1 now (it came out in 95 and is now getting the amount of aftermarket attention as the SBC did by 1963). I'd say if you have the bucks, go with the LS1 - super flat torque curve and it responds very well to upgrades. Of course, the JTR manual doesn't cover the LS1. John's Cars has a kit now to do this. A few here have used that. Others have fabbed their own stuff.

 

I use the Corbeau A4s, with the lumbar option. I'm 6'2" and even with a helmet, I have room. They are very comfortable, but if your wide, they can be too snug. You should really test sit seats locally if you can.

 

Doesn't someone make steel flares now? Check paint/body section.

 

I don't have a problem with coilovers for street use. But you will probably want to keep the stock or some other cushioning isolator at the top of the strut to keep the harshness away.

 

Structural enhancements - look here: http://alteredz.com/structuralmods.htm

 

Ditto on the dash cap. $100 for the full face dash cap is alot easier to swallow than $500+ that justdashes wants.

 

I say go manual. A BW T-5 will last behind a 320hp V8, if not beat on horribly. Beyond that, a G-force upgraded T-5 (talk to Mikelly) will be a great way to go if more torque capacity is needed.

 

But if you do a 700R4, make sure you get a good one, with the Corvette governor, etc.