Jump to content
HybridZ

hall switches for MS&S-extra trigger


Xander

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

 

I am in the proces of rebuilding my L28ET for my 260Z. I have been running this car on MS&S for a year now and it ran perfectly.

On This new engine I will be triggering the MS&S unit from three magnets in the flywheel. The hall sensor will be mounted on the plate in between the block and the trans on the opposite side of the starter. I will be posting pictures of the finish item but for now here is a picture of the hall switches and a magnet. the measurements are in centimeters.

 

This is the same method that SDS uses to trigger there system. If you look close at a picture of one of there pickup plates you can actualy see the hallsensor glued to it.

hallswitches_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

there doesn't seem to be much interest in this thread but I'm gonna post anyway.

 

This is the hall effect switch with the wires attached. The left wire is +12 volts, the middle wire is ground and the right wires is a free floating wire until the senor "sees" a magnet. Then the right wire will be connected to ground.

 

hallsensor.JPG

 

This is the finished sensor. I drilled a hole through a M16 brass bolt. The sensor is bonded in place with a 2 part epoxy resin. the rear is sealed with a regular sealant.

 

finishedsensor.JPG

 

three magnets are drilled and bonded into the flywheel. The first is located 60 degrees before TDC. The rest are at 120 deg interfalls.

 

magnetinflywheel.JPG

 

This is where I mounted the sensor. At first I wanted to mount it at the opposite side of the starter, but I was afraid of the heat from the exhaust so went for this location instead. It is well protect behind the oil pan.

 

sensormounted.JPG

 

And the good news is. It actually works!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cool, so by saying 60degrees, for the first magnet, and the rest at 120, you mean in reference to the first one, correct?

 

This is basically the way my 81 ZXT CAS is set up now. I uplled the trigger wheel off, redrilled the hole and moved the wheel one bolt hole advanced, giving me all triggers 72 degrees BTDC. An odd number unlike a nice 60 degrees, but good enough.

 

Mine works, too!

 

I thought you would have done it over by the starter, also, and have the magnets on the O.D. but I guess this way you don't have to worry about Centrifugal forces. I doubt they would come loose with the epoxy anyway.

 

Good to see another alternate trigger for N/A guys, too!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cool, so by saying 60degrees, for the first magnet, and the rest at 120, you mean in reference to the first one, correct?

 

yep,

 

the magnets are distributed evenly around the flywheel at 120 degrees. With one magnet at 60 degrees before TDC.

 

I first thought I had marked the location of the first magnet wrongly. Because I turned the flywheel 60 degrees advance instead of retarded. I felt very luck to have caught this error in time. In the end it turns out that it doesn't matter, because the magnets are evenly spaced at 120 degrees. If one magnet is 60 degrees after TDC then the next one is at 60 degrees before TDC. :-)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Xander,

 

GREAT post. I've been working on the same thing, using a very similar sensor. However, I mounted the magnets in my crank dampener. I made a very ugly bracket (out of steel - DOH!) that looked functional, but wouldn't work. I have since made another braket out of aluminum that should work fine.

 

I got free samples of "Allegra" or "Allegro" hall sensors from the net. They delivered 5 of them for free in 2 days.

 

I like your idea of drilling out a bolt. Have you bench tested it?

 

Let us know, nice work.

 

-Sims

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the engine is now in the car and my megasquirt system is registering 200 rpm when cranking. So the system works sofar. I still have to test is at high rpm. Hopefully tomorow (tuesday) I will start the engine for the first time.

 

And frank. getting dirty is not a problem with these engines since the flywheel is totally closed off from road dirt. And the sensor can easilly be removed for cleaning. And come to think of it, even the flywheel magnets can be cleaned if you take out the starter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Accordingly it was dirt of the starters impact on the flywheel and clutch debree.. but yeah you can clean em, and im not really worrieing. i hope it works, it looks to be very stable theoretically...

Man i might even use the same set up... however ill first try with the cas.. since i have got other stuff to do :(

and we have no clue what system those WRX Fords where using, you are using pretty powerfull magnets... (watch it you might draw metal objects to you car :) )

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm trying to convert my 75 MS set up to MSnS-extra at the moment. I was thinking about doing something similar to this. Why do you use more then one magnet for this sort of pickup?

 

I might just try to find an 81 zxt dizzy instead of a custom set up. I haven't decided yet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After talking it out with a buddy after lunch that's what we figured it must be. It's good to know. I have decided to machine a trigger wheel to mount on the crank pulley and use a hall effect sensor like this. if I can't make it work I'll break down and get a new distributor. Great post, Thanks alot for sharing the info

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The bunk about putting them in the flywheel is spoken without a thought on the realities of the matter. Chrysler uses flywheel mounted timing items and has for years without any worries.

 

It's a good idea, and keeps the sensors protected inside the bellhousing.

 

I thought we discussed this over beers in Paris.... Maybe they were stronger for you Euro Guys and it affected me less... LOL!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tony, At dinner time in paris I was pretty wasted from having not enough sleep. I was just sitting there and listening to you and frank yapping about all kinds of stuff. :)

 

All I can say now is that the trigger in the flywheel works. If I look at the timing with my timing light it is rock solid. No fluctuation at all.

 

I have another problem though. With all the soldering in the megasuirt unit lately I must have damaged the FET driver. One channel is not giving off a signal. I now routed the signal from channel A to both FETs. This works but I can now only set the injection to simultanious and not alternating. I would rather set it to 2 squirts alternating. But new parts have been ordered including a couple of new FETs so for now it will have to do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just helped Bryan out in Phoenix with his MS getting started, I was amazed how much the fuel pressure fluctuated during "simultaneous" injector operation.

2 Squirts Alternating resulted in ROCK STEADY fuel pressure, and better throttle response (three 46mm 2-Bbl throttle bodies on a home made six runner intake manifold.)

 

Speaking of manifold, did the Exhaust Manifold show up Xander. Man I shipped that a loooong time ago!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...