Xander

some more OEM options for you: https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?parttype=10176

I recently had the opportunity to put a L-series head gasket on top of a AJ16 engine. That AJ16 is huge! make sure it will all fit before committing to a project like this. I friend of mine put a supercharged 4.0 AJ16 into a old Landrover Defender. I made the wiring loom and megasquirt unit for him. Placing a AJ16 into my S30 also crossed my mind.

This is exactly how it should operate. The valve body is barrel shaped. at 0% the internal spring is relaxed. when the voltage goes up (duty cycle increases) the barrel will turn to the right. at first the right side is open, then it will close up, and then it will start to open on the left side. I use a similar air valve like this with a simple $15 chinese PWM power suply. works great. I can adjust the idle rpm with a small dashpot on the center console.

I would love to see some pictures when you get them. Did you order them from FRP Automotive?

diesel waterpumps seam to be pretty easily obtainable here in Europe. Check out https://www.autodoc.co.uk/aisin/8165212. Here in the Netherlands the pump is €55 though.

I have been working in asbestos remediation since the late nineties. Here in the Netherlands asbestos has been forbidden since 1993. It is illegal to sell, buy or stock any asbestos containing products. Most people have no idea how to recognize asbestos so a lot of products are still out there. Remember that asbestos is only dangerous if inhaled. In my 1973 240Z the gaskets (engine and diff), brake pads and clutch disc contained asbestos. The easy way to check is to look for fibers on the edge of the material. If you see fibers you can hold a flame to it from a cigarette lighter. If the fibers glow but stay in tact it is probably asbestos. If the fiber burns or melts you can be pretty sure it is not asbestos. This off course only works with visible fibers. On gasket material it should be pretty obvious but on brake pads fibers might not be visible. When removing gaskets It is good practice to keep the gasket wet and only use a gasket scraper and not a rotating disc. Any high RPM device will bring the fibers into the air. Air tools are even worse since they move a lot of air.

I run a 36-1 trigger wheel using a hall switch, I run Waste Spark DIS ignition, I have an extra input for fuel pressure logging and I run 440cc injectors (RX7). All on a MS1 with a V2.2 board. Do you need MS2/3?

I am no racer by any means, but I would approach this differently. Racecars need to be as simple as possible (KISS). And with endurance racing thermal management seems very important indeed. Make the head flow. and keep it under 7000RPM. no fancy pistons needed. Get the engine up to 225-250 hp NA and THEN ad a turbo. run it at 5 psi. No intercooler needed. A intercooler is just another part to fail. Just think of all the connections in the piping. This should get you into the 300-350HP range easy. No expensive pistons, no electric fan (just the mechanical one), no intercooler with a bunch of silicone connectors. This also keeps the weight penalty for adding a turbo down. Maybe I am a crazy but keeping it simple seems like a good idea.

Man! how awesome is that. Your first post and look at the reply you got! I don't post very often but I have been in your place in the past. I had an L26 with a E88 head that I converted to fuel injection. You can drill and tap any head to fit a fuel injection manifold. If I were you I would first convert the block to fuel injection. Megasquirt is a good way to go if you can build it yourself. get comfortable with tuning and running on fuel injection. To got turbo after that is easy. This way you can also spread the costs a bit. As a general rule you can say that a project like this will always cost you more that you anticipated. It's the little things that add up. Turbo manifold $50 Tubocharger $300 (chinese ebay unit) Oil feed line $ 25 Oil return line $25 Oil feed fitting $5 Oil return fitting $5 Block oil feed fitting $5 (1/8 T fitting) Block oil return fitting $5 Intake manifold $100 Throttle body $50 Injectors $300 ECM (DIY Megasquirt base unit with mods for ignition) $250 Fuel rail $25 (stock unit) Fuel pressure regulator $50 Fuel pump $100 Crank trigger wheel or dizzy $150 Down pipe $100 Intercooler $250 Intercooler piping $50 Intercooler piping joiners (silicone couplers) $75 Clamps $50 That's about $2000 right there and I would like to add another $1000: new fuel lines $50 laptop and tuning cable $250 2,5" exhaust $250 fuel filter $10 throttle cable setup $25 electric Fan $100 (stock fan doesn't fit with intercooler piping in place) Wideband O2 sensor $150 (Tunerstudio's autotune is awesome) full version of Tuner Studio $60 Jim Stim megasquirt stimulator $60 With a lot of searching you can probably reduce the price a little bit. But the money you save on deals you find will be swallowed up in all the unforeseen stuff. I hope this does not discourage you. A S30 with a turbo is pretty awesome beast and totally worth the effort. Good luck and keep us posted

Did you replace the ignition leads? I once had the same problem. running on only cylinder 1 and 6. The leads go on counter clockwise. not clockwise. that solved the problem for me .

I know for a fact that Jack used a stock windscreen. I have seen his car in person. The main problem with a chopped roof is the side windows. If you have a good solution for that than your good to go. It really looks amazing. Very subtle but soooo much better. XW

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/107335-top-chop-update/

MS1-extra is actually MSnS-extra so you should be fine. http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/MS_Extra_Software_Manual.htm I am running MS1-extra (029y3) using a 36-1 trigger wheel with hall effect switch, triple BIP373 coil drivers with a IGN-6 coil pack (DIY-autotune). All this on a v2.2 board. I see no reason to upgrade to MS2 at this time. Get it running first. MS2 will not make it any easier. Your money will be better spend on a wideband O2 setup. And I totally agree with BLOZ UP on Tunerstudio. The autotune function is awesome.

DAMN TONY D! That is right around the corner isn't it? It's been more that eight years since I was there. A lot has happened since then. And It's still impossible to get a decent rustfree S30 overhere .

Or you could just buy this one from the Netherlands and be done with it. http://www.marktplaats.nl/a/auto-s/nissan/m854632242-nissan-240-260-z-2-6-sportcoupe-2-2.html?c=a2384ef0ece270f44503df9f8598c624&previousPage=lr Nice interior too.

check out diyautotune. They have everything you need.

I use a bosch valve on my l28et. http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c372/preludefan/IdleAirValve.gif to control it I use a small PWM dimmer circuit. You can get these at: http://www.dx.com/p/pwm-dc-converter-motor-speed-controller-switch-green-12v-36v-10a-226934#.U9edRrHqris I have the little dashpot on my centre console to adjust my idle on the fly. Works very well.

This is how I solved this problem. Please check out the pictures. I welded a box with baffles. This box is then welded into the stock tank. I can tell you it works perfectly. Even at just 1/2 inch of fuel left in the tank I had no problems. No external surge tank needed. I run a l28et.

Boy this brings back memories.

Did you have your onboard camera running? That would have been awesome. BAM!

If you have a early style, current trigger, tacho then it is quite easy. I am running the IGN-6 coilpack from DIYautotune. The positive lead goes from the fusebox to the loop on the backof the tacho and then to the coilpack. It works just like OEM. hope this helps.

Highly unlikely. A crude but simple test is to hold a flame to it. Asbestos does not burn or melt. It will just glow. I work with asbestos every day (inspection and research). You are more like to find asbestos in the original gaskets. So take care when scraping and brushing you gasket surfaces.

Please make sure the piston is not at tdc when you press down on the spring.