Crossmember mods to allow camber adjustment?

[ezzzzzzz]

I have been reading through the many threads regarding the bumpsteer and camber problems related to lowering the vehicle. As the two are different beasts I'd like some thoughts on my brainstorming. With bumpsteer we can use strut spacers (simple and easy) or mod the LCA to orient the tierods to the LCA's. I'm thinking that the cross member could be modified to include slots and guide plates that would allow the use of camber bolts like those found in many late model suspensions (the 'D' bolt and offset washer design). The LCA could be reinforced to allow removing metal that might contact the crossmember. The crossmember could be modified and reinforced to prevent this contact as well. This would/could kill two birds with one stone depending on where the new slot bolt is located. The rear is a different story and would require a lot more work. With minimal space in the upper strut mount towers slotting the holes may not allow enough correction to warrant the work. Camber plates are only effective with coilovers which by their smaller diameter allow for more agressive changes.

[JMortensen]

Someone did just this and used an eccentric adjuster out of a Mercedes IIRC. This was posted not more than 2 months ago. It will work fine for adjusting camber, and basically will do the same thing that the G Machine bushing does. The potential problem is that the control arms will probably need to be adjusted to different positions, meaning that bumpsteer will be different from one side to the other, and also that also makes the car slightly out of square.

[Clifton]

I use ecentric nylon bushings in the rear of my 73' to adjust camber, I thibk they are G-machine. AZC and I think MSA sells them. They have them for the front too. On my 71' I slotted the upper mount in the rear.

[ezzzzzzz]

Here's a different look into the problem. Has anyone considered modifying the LCA to bolt or press in an adjustable balljoint like used on Hondas, etc? I will be looking into the possibility and feel that there is a real chance it can work.

A pair of donor LCA's from another vehicle, a little plasma cutting, a little welding and voila...real camber adjustment. The only issue I see is finding a balljoint that matches height and taper of the installed Z piece. That should not be too hard a task....well maybe.

[Drax240z]

Offset bushings work well in the rear, but in the front any camber change by way of adjusting the LCA will result in a toe change as well and will need to be adjusted out. Hence the reason why camber plates in the front are quite superior. (unless you don't mind going adjusting toe as well every time... or the toe changes work out to your advantage)

[ezzzzzzz]

I agree that camber plates are the ideal choice. That leaves you with a minimal amount of camber adjustment using plates, slots or using the smaller MSA urethane spacers that allow for camber changes without slotting the holes. All of that is based on coil springs, not coilovers. As for my idea, yes, toe corrections would need to be made. For a street driven car that amounts to one adjustment (I believe). For a race car that is excess work if continual changes are required to find an ideal setting for any given track. I'm merely brainstorming...

[Drax240z]

I find most people that use camber plates do dual duty street/auto-X around here, and like to switch settings when they get to the track. Camber plates make it a snap. There are lots of other methods that will work fine for a dedicated setting though.

[260DET]

My '77 has had eccentric D washer camber adjusters fitted for many years, they are/were available as an aftermarket item here in Oz. Fitting them was done in conjunction with altering the pivot point locations, the up 'n out trick.

 

They do the job but do have the disadvantages mentioned. If this car was going to be built again I'd concentrate on altering the strut towers to allow for big camber and caster adjustments to be made there.